Gathering parts for my banger build. Andy, here on forum, is dropping my axle and have a couple questions. I am leaning towards splitting my wishbone and installing brackets on the frame to get the 7 to 9" castor. Will this set of bones from Speedway work? description is kinda grey, saying wont work with top mounted spring perches. Has tapped hole for side mount. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Split-Wishbone-Style-Front-Radius-Rods,36046.html I know its not much work splitting and welding the stock bone, but time isn't on my side. Also, in keeping somewhat traditional, should I use tie rod ends or heims for the frame connect?
dmdeaton I followed the link and read the info. It didn't look to me to say that it wouldn't work for a top mount, it said it wouldn't work for a front mounted spring. I take that to mean 46/47 style with the spring in front of the axle. To me these look like they can be used for spring over axle or spring behind.
I didn't catch that. Read it again, cool. So the tapped hole can be used for spring behind or shock mount. Thanks guys, I am not up on all setups yet, late learner.
300 bucks for Chinese wishbones, gross. Get a set outta the classified section, or better yet I'm sure Mr Kohler could get you a set of real Henry Ford units while he is dropping your axle...
I don't think your model A spindles will work with Speedway wishbones.. Also they are not set up for cross steering, if that's the way your going...
Thanks for the bail out ^^^... Also, I think you have to run special bearings to run hydraulic brakes on A spindles, if you are.. I'll shut up now before I get more wrong...
With the installation of a dropped axle, the steering arms will, in many cases, locate the tie rod too high and it will hit the bottom of the frame. Old time fix is heat and twist the arms 180 so the tie rod is below the steering arms. Nothing wrong with splitting the A 'bones, may have to pie cut them so the rear mount is not so low. '37-'40 wishbones would be a better choice, longer length=a better appearance. Tie rod ends are a better choice, both aesthetically and mechanically than heims or urethane bushed rod ends.
Heims even with dust covers don't last to well on the street because of dirt getting in them. Use tie rod ends. Here is a pic of a way to run a wishbone with almost any type engine. This car had a flathead model B 4 banger engine with a T5 transmission. The tie rod end is from a Kenworth truck.
If you're running a banger, there's absolutely no need whatsoever to split the wishbones. Use the stock ball and socket as it was designed, it will work better than split bones, which only had to be split to clear physically larger engines than the stock 4 cylinder.
I need some kingpin input. Can I use a later model kingpin with the Model A hubs? I am not using the stock shocks. Or do I modify the stock Model A kinpins to get rid of the top connection?
I think all kingpins are the same but the length and retainer bolt vary. its most common to cut off the brake cup if you are using model A spindles.
Your on the right track; current late kingpins have a staked washer on top, which won't support the load imposed the "bearing on top" set-up used on the "A" thru '36 spindles. If you don't care for the appearance of the cut off "A" kingpin, you can take a small cup style freeze plug, weld on a piece of 1/4" all thread that will reach thru the hollow kingpin and secure it with a nut on the bottom.
You need a kit, to do it. That's no that hard to get: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Hydraulic-Brake-Adapter-Rings,3286.html It can, and has been done with mechanical brakes. It is not an easy task, and has to be done exactly right. I'd caution against it.
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