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model a frame

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Lowbuckboz, Apr 2, 2008.

  1. Lowbuckboz
    Joined: Apr 2, 2008
    Posts: 500


    Just picked up a model T roadster body (front section of a 4 door). Is a model A frame useable for a chassis? I'm new to the scene and building this type of car. Looking to build a slammed lowbuck, flatheaded, banjo reared, I beamed manual steering badass ride! Lovin this site, thanks for the help. Have not had time to fully go through the tech section......sooo if my question is answered there, please let me know!!! Thanks...Lowbuckboz
  2. Gregg Pellicer
    Joined: Aug 20, 2004
    Posts: 1,347

    Gregg Pellicer

  3. chuckw2
    Joined: Feb 11, 2007
    Posts: 143

    from So Cal

    Be sure to box it right-do some research first.
  4. scootermcrad
    Joined: Sep 20, 2005
    Posts: 12,375


    Go here FIRST:

    Then look around here using the search function for some specific details.

    The answer is yes and boxing is important. There are LOTS AND LOTS of examples of frames and z-ing techniques that will work for you here. The Tech section has some also. The important thing is that you research it so you can learn why one technique is better for your situation instead of someone giving you the "recipe" and you going on about your way. Consider this an institution/garage of learning.

    Do that intro...

    Welcome to the HAMB!

  5. pitman
    Joined: May 14, 2006
    Posts: 5,151


  6. Damn, Pitman---You make me feel like a celebrity!!!:eek::eek::eek:
  7. Lowbuckboz
    Joined: Apr 2, 2008
    Posts: 500


    Thank you for the replies! Off to the intro!
  8. panhead_pete
    Joined: Feb 22, 2006
    Posts: 2,951


    Thats because you are - I just hope you are wearing underwear when you are getting out of a car to go clubbing...... :D
  9. pitman
    Joined: May 14, 2006
    Posts: 5,151


    Until Brian posted these gems, AAA and NSRA were contemplating a desperate merger! Fewer cars and Rodders were predicted :eek:
    Now our numbers are assured thanks to BA and the Ontario Hooligans!
  10. Damn---what a disgusting thought!!! Besides, I always back out, never exit crotch first like some I've seen----Kinda looks like the moon coming up when I'm getting out:eek::p:p
  11. dont know why youd want to take an age old frame....go thru the trouble of filling all the old holes, boxing and Z'ing it........and trying to make stuff work???

    a whole new chassis can be made in less time and with a far better and safer end result....

    check out 'california custom roadsters' website.....look at their frames.....
    for $20 you can buy a plan set and make your own......

    and start off right!
  12. Dustyrustee is correct----but then again, if you're a newbie at this game, it can be pretty intimidating trying to buy or make a new frame and then figure out where the heck everything has to go that attaches to it. I have boxed old frames and made new frames, and making a new frame is easier, but you need to have a few hotrod builds under your belt before you tackle it.
  13. the plan set from california custom roadsters takes you by the hand and guides you thru the process....easy as milking a cow....

    myself, I think reworking an old frame is not for a novice....
  14. joeycarpunk
    Joined: Jun 21, 2004
    Posts: 4,446

    from MN,USA

    Good point, although depending on how much of the frame you see I prefer the look of a original modified safely for looks. It all depends on what you want and what work you want to go through.
  15. Lowbuckboz
    Joined: Apr 2, 2008
    Posts: 500


    I prefer the look of an original model A frame. I am currently building a 35 Ford 5 window coupe. I used the original frame because it was in great shape and cost factor. I boxed it with 3/16" plate. Has a Fatman MustII suspension with Shockwaves front and back. Rear is mini tubbed with a Air Ride Tech triangulated 4 link. I do alot of late model mustang mini tub jobs, install custom crossmembers for coil overs, make new chromoly lower control arms w/chromoly rod ends because I move the lower control arm rear brackets inboard to clear big drag radials. New arms are needed because those stock arms are triangulated and moving the brackets in screws that angle up. I use good shit because these cars make alot of power. I have done 4 links and ladder bars. Applying this stuff to streetrods ends up overkill, not such a bad thing. My point is I know whats safe. I am however a newbie to the Rat Rod scene. Only wanted to know if a model T would fit on a model A frame.

    Don't boot me now!...I mean no disrespect and I am not a know it all, tis after all why I am here!

  16. DOH...
    you went and said it...

    you were doing so good....

    what year roadster half?
    i have a 27 roadster bucket sitting on an A frame and it looks like it will work just fine.
    in all actuality, it was part of henry's plan that a 27 would fit on an A chassis.
    i say do it.
  17. Note to newbie: this isn't a rat rod site. I thought I'd say it nice before the hammers come out. Actually, alteredpilot said it nice too.
  18. Lowbuckboz
    Joined: Apr 2, 2008
    Posts: 500


    I did not mean this is a rat rod site. These cars are heavily refered to as rat rods in my area. I do not consider what I want as a rat rod, more of an old school hot rod, sorry! Just a lack of a better term.
    Alteredpilot, it's a 27 front half that I have.
  19. whats the game plan?
    are you planning on making a roadster pick up or a lakes modified or what?
    if you're going the pick up route you should be good to go with a stock, unmodified frame.
    however if you are planing on doing something more like a lakes modified or bucket roadster, you may be looking at putting a 'Z' in the rear section of the frame or at least shortening it just a hair to bring the wheels in proportion, depending on taste.either way, good luck and keep us posted.
  20. The A frame will do just fine. I have a '25 touring body mounted on one. The stock front mounting bolts are at the edge of the frame and I just cut a washer about the thickness of the frame in half- use 1/2 per side. Made a sandwich, bolted it together. Second mounting point needs a tab about 1", the third about 2". This is based on using the stock mounting points on the body.
  21. Lowbuckboz
    Joined: Apr 2, 2008
    Posts: 500


    Game plan is a pickup, no fenders, no hood. Want something simple and cool. 50's era. Thanks for the replies. I'm parts gathering as we speak. Man, you guys and this site will make this easy. Lots of ideas since coming here! I'll keep ya posted!
  22. Stick Shift
    Joined: Oct 2, 2005
    Posts: 2,558

    Stick Shift
    from LENA IL

    Ok I got to ask. Is the A and the T have the same wheel base? What if you wanted to run the T body and fenders on an A chassis? 26-27 Ts
  23. man nothings easy. if it is you did something wrong
  24. MIKE47
    Joined: Aug 19, 2005
    Posts: 987

    from new jersey

    I'll second that NJ has a lot of guys using this term.
  25. jaxx
    Joined: Mar 22, 2008
    Posts: 401


    Got to agree with dusyrusty - I have some pics of my scratch built frame from 2 x 3 tubing with 1/4 inch plate x 3 for extra strength - you can get your ride height the way you want it - no fear -- Im posting pick today unger thread name scratch biult 25 dodge update 3 by jaxx
  26. gas pumper
    Joined: Aug 13, 2007
    Posts: 2,957

    gas pumper

    Ya got that right, I painted my T, gloss red, and it still gets called a rat rod. Products of the NJ school system.

  27. Lowbuckboz
    Joined: Apr 2, 2008
    Posts: 500


    Hey MIKE47 & gas pumper, thanks for verifing that for me. Call it an old school rod or traditional and these guys don't know what you're talking about! Also just picked up a real clean model A frame. Now we're starting.

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