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Model A Fordor Frame question

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 2ratty4u, Sep 4, 2009.

  1. 2ratty4u
    Joined: Oct 5, 2008
    Posts: 61

    2ratty4u
    Member
    from dallas, tx

    I am building (beginning to build) a 1930 Fordor and want to start with the frame. I can find frame plans to "z" it like 14" and get it about 2" off the ground, but I want to be able to use the back seat. And I don't really want to drag a chicken Mcnugget box down the road. I was curious if any of you guys have plans/prints or know where to find them to drop it reasonably but still be practical for back seat use. Any help is greatly appreciated!! I just don't want to have to scrap 2 or 3 "practices" before I get a frame. Thanks in advance!
     
  2. pasadenahotrod
    Joined: Feb 13, 2007
    Posts: 11,776

    pasadenahotrod
    Member
    from Texas

    It looks like you have a car already so you have something to work with right now.
    The question left for you to answer is this:
    Do you want a full-fendered Fordor just lower or a no-fendered Fordor That's lower still?
     
  3. Big Tony
    Joined: Mar 29, 2006
    Posts: 3,589

    Big Tony
    Member

    Would like to check your 30 out since i'm in the beginning process of building a 30 fourdoor myself. I'm going in a much different direction but would still like to see it.
     
  4. triplexkustoms
    Joined: Dec 29, 2005
    Posts: 327

    triplexkustoms
    Member

    if you z the frame 14 inches the frame will be the same height as the rear seat cushions.
     

  5. demonss
    Joined: Feb 8, 2007
    Posts: 64

    demonss
    Member
    from Belgium

    i have the same question as you.

    i wanna keep it a family-rod. But im gonna run it fullfenderd but as low as possible in the fenders.

    my rear set-up will be radius rod with coilovers.
     
  6. Von Rigg Fink
    Joined: Jun 11, 2007
    Posts: 13,426

    Von Rigg Fink
    Member
    from Garage

    here is one thing to conciter.
    if your building it to keep it,,those kids are going to get bigger..and eventually no one will be able to sit back there comfortably

    you can still get low with a decent Z..and some other suspension and frame changes..
    The grass scrapers are over rated in my book, and become a rough useless ride (its just my opinion folks)

    try a 6" Z..and comprimise..that way you have a back seat mybe even a small adult could still use and not have their knees stuffed in their ears. or hit their head on the roof with a crack in the road..
    you also have to think of how much your going to chop the top..or if at all
     
  7. Bphotrod
    Joined: Sep 19, 2006
    Posts: 271

    Bphotrod
    Member
    from da U.P.

    Im running a 40 ford front buggy spring in the rear with a 4 inch z in the frame. I easily could have gotten away with no z in the rear and still had the tires fit in the wheelwells nicely.
    [​IMG]
    I didnt channel the car at all, and was going for a highboy stance. There is plenty of room for a backseat, but not much room in the backseat. Pretty small back there.
    [​IMG]
    It will probably take several mockups to get it where you want it, no way around it. Good luck.
    [​IMG]
    Heres a quick pic of my frame layout. Went to Wescotts site and went off their A frame diagram.
     
    Last edited: Sep 4, 2009
  8. Mr. Cool
    Joined: Sep 12, 2008
    Posts: 170

    Mr. Cool
    Member
    from Northeast

    I have a '30 FORDOR that has a 6" front Z and an 18" rear drop.

    I'm channeled 3" and have just a hair under 7" ground clearance

    Homemade frame out of 2x3x.250" tubing.

    If you chop it...you will be lowering your seat height...that means to drive the car with ease...the seat will also go towards the rear of the car to free up some leg room.

    If you want the car low and have a nice suspension...you may have to give up the back seat for the frame rails.

    Another note is once you drop the car low....the rear tires will not allow the door to be opened.

    Here is a pick of mine.....

    6" chop
    129" wheelbase
    468 BBC
    6" front Z
    18" rear drop
    4 link coilover rear suspension
     

    Attached Files:

  9. walter
    Joined: Nov 4, 2007
    Posts: 631

    walter
    Member

    I have built a more door 30 in 1979 and put close to 90K on it. The problem you have when trying to cut the frame is all the structure every where is wood. Very difficult to work with. The other problem is the only way I found to get the body so it didn't flex to much is a LARGE K member. These cars are really cool but not for the faint of heart in the construction process.
    Walter
     
  10. Bandit
    Joined: Aug 9, 2009
    Posts: 15

    Bandit
    Member


    Nice car!!
     
  11. HotRod33
    Joined: Oct 5, 2008
    Posts: 2,532

    HotRod33
    Member

    Contact Vaphead here on the hamb... he builds some nice frames and can steer you the right way or maybe put one together for you....
     
  12. Mark H
    Joined: May 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,461

    Mark H
    Member
    from Scotland

    If you're using a transverse rear leaf spring,you can save a couple of inches in the rear floor area by putting part of the kick in the side rails and part in the rear cross member.
    I'm putting together a frame for a friend who wanted a 7 inch kick in the frame.I put 4 1/2 inch in the rails and the rest in the cross member.The reversed eye model A spring will be mounted to a perch off the rear.
     

    Attached Files:

  13. 2ratty4u
    Joined: Oct 5, 2008
    Posts: 61

    2ratty4u
    Member
    from dallas, tx

    Thanks for all the input so far. It's helping tremendously and at the same time just putting more and more ideas into my head!!

    Thanks for all the pics. You guys have some sweet rides! I like the practicality of BPHotrod's ride and the extreme of Mr Cool's. So maybe somewhere inbetween (like Von Rigg Fink said earlier). I do appreciate any and all input and will definately take it all into consideration before attempting to screw something up.

    Big Tony, I'm not far at all from you, in Frisco. Come by sometime. Different route or not, I'm sure I could get some new ideas just from talking to you about our 30's.
     
  14. panhead_pete
    Joined: Feb 22, 2006
    Posts: 2,952

    panhead_pete
    Member

    Not sure in a 4 door but the plan for my coupe chassis is to build it so it follows the contours of the body like a 32 but so the body sits just outside the frame when channeled, incl into the trunk area with the Z following the wheel arches. You may have room for a rear seat that way as the frame rails will be spread as far as possible.

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=150434

    This is awesome thread!!!
     
    Last edited: Sep 8, 2009
  15. Bruce Lancaster
    Joined: Oct 9, 2001
    Posts: 21,682

    Bruce Lancaster
    Member Emeritus

    Go here: http://home.cogeco.ca/~deuceguy/Model_A_Scans_Main.htm

    If you study the body drawing and the chassis drawing, you will have a good idea of what is where. As long as Z is placed correctly, you have X amount of space if you simply make the Z the seat platform, more if you go to a thinner cushion.
     

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