Register now to get rid of these ads!

Technical Model A coupe with filled roof - how to replace the wood?

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Gigantor, May 8, 2020.

  1. Gigantor
    Joined: Jul 12, 2006
    Posts: 3,819

    Gigantor
    Member

    So my 31 coupe was hot rodded at some point back in the day. Someone did a halfway decent job of filling the roof too. They even went so far as to weld the visor solid to the roof.
    Now, decades later, I'd like to replace the punky wood. Thing is, with that visor and roof welded solid, I'm scratching my head as how to remove and replace the wood in the top.
    Is this something others have encountered? How did you tackle it? Interested to hear your ideas before I do something dumb.
    20200508_010528.jpeg 20200508_010943.jpeg 20200508_010811.jpeg 20200508_010844.jpeg

    Sent from my SM-G973U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    akoutlaw and -Brent- like this.
  2. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 5,665

    -Brent-
    Member

    The header is in there for good... everything else you should be able to redo. You'll have to make some modifications, for sure.
     
    Gigantor likes this.
  3. adam401
    Joined: Dec 27, 2007
    Posts: 2,176

    adam401
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    If it has some soft spots maybe consider using an epoxy like West System 2 part marine epoxy. Might have better luck with the body flipped upside down because it can get runny. Repair might be less headache than replacement? Good luck
     
    Country Joe, Tim and Gigantor like this.
  4. chopped
    Joined: Dec 9, 2004
    Posts: 1,968

    chopped
    Member

    Isn't it just like replacing a floor joist in an existing house? You have the advantage of using the top of the roof for a template for the cross ties.
     
    Gigantor likes this.

  5. manyolcars
    Joined: Mar 30, 2001
    Posts: 8,368

    manyolcars

    When I added a metal roof panel to my avatar I tack welded it onto the 'trough' every 4" and filled the trough with seam sealer. It appears to still be factory and has not leaked. The spot welds allow me to cut the panel loose to replace wood if ever needed and the spot welds help align and reattach the panel in the same place
     
  6. tough to wipe, when the pants are already up.
     
  7. Gigantor
    Joined: Jul 12, 2006
    Posts: 3,819

    Gigantor
    Member

    HAHAHAHA!
    Sent from my SM-G973U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  8. Gigantor
    Joined: Jul 12, 2006
    Posts: 3,819

    Gigantor
    Member

    That's an interesting idea, thank you.
    Sent from my SM-G973U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  9. mr.chevrolet
    Joined: Jul 19, 2006
    Posts: 6,893

    mr.chevrolet
    Member

    check Abatron for wood epoxy too
     
    kidcampbell71 and -Brent- like this.
  10. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 15,861

    alchemy
    Member

    There are probably all the original nails and maybe even screws from the trough down into the wood. You would need to chip that wood to pieces to remove it. And the replacement wouldn't be able to be attached in the same fashion, so you'd probably just need to prop it up from below with braces to the side wood over the door.

    I like the epoxy suggestions if the wood is even kinda savable. It's basically just used to hold the headliner up now.
     
    Gigantor likes this.
  11. 343w
    Joined: Dec 15, 2008
    Posts: 1,465

    343w
    Member

    Got the same problem with my tudor, plan on epoxy to glue to sheet metal with props until it dries.
     
    Gigantor likes this.
  12. Okay, I'm an Old Fu-- but have done several filled tops. I'm not going to do any more but still wondered. When doing them in the Past I would always remove all the wood prior to filling the hole. I did this because I couldn't fit and finish the way I wanted to and I didn't like setting the Wood on fire. Lap welds for me never worked. So I have to ask, (cause I'm Old and dumb) Why are you replacing the Wood in a filled top? If it's rotten and Buggs ya why not just dig it out and move on. Why take on an impossible task for what appears to me be for nothing? You don't need it to support the filled roof if it's actually welded in.
     
    Big A and Johnny Gee like this.
  13. Gigantor
    Joined: Jul 12, 2006
    Posts: 3,819

    Gigantor
    Member

    You know, I never thought about it like that. I could just cut it all out and call it good I suppose. When the time comes to put in a headliner (if I do) I could just do wire boughs right? Hmmmm.
    Sent from my SM-G973U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  14. Correct! I often make what I call hat channel to make the span across and 1/8" X 2" flat bar bent to make the corners up from top plate for header to hang on. Make life easy, don't fight a battle with no rewards.
     
    Gigantor likes this.
  15. That should say Headliner not header. I could probably find you a photo if your questioning how I do it.
     
  16. Leave the wood where it is unless it's falling apart (doesn't look too bad), then you can still attach a headliner. Wire brush the roof then rustoleum the whole works. Done.
     
  17. Headliners in a Model or anything else don't hang from the Wood anyways.
     
  18. Toqwik
    Joined: Feb 1, 2003
    Posts: 1,306

    Toqwik
    Member

    An oscillating saw would be my tool of choice for removal. I would assume the perimeter frame has screws, nails, and some other fasteners the PO use to secure the roof. You probably will end up leaving that unless it just would bother you too much. Unless it is coming lose, falling in your face, or smells, I would just remove the lose rotten pieces and move on. Pair it flat black or cover with some heat shield/sound deadener and move on.


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
    Gigantor likes this.
  19. The hot rod wood guys are above ^^^.

    I'm the home repair angle. If that wood received its "punky"-ness from being wet .. make sure you exorcise those old demons. Two fold .. stop the rust on the metal & treat the wood. Especially if epoxying in new wood.

    You can delve into vinegar & water .. 50/50 .. or commercial strength bleach .. or powdered wood bleach ( <<< careful with your lungs ) .. or a host of other substances.

    I like Sporicidin. It's a camphor/ menthol substance sold in janitorial supply houses. It'll make the wood appear new again, & stop further damage. I use it for black mold/mildew/etc. $25 to 40 bucks a gallon. You can follow immediately thereafter with your dealer, oil, or epoxy after drying. Your wallet & choice mileage may vary.

    Research soft wood repair online. Figure out what your needs are. I could write a book here .. but noone will read it, anyway.

    Bottom line - clean & then neutralize the damage. Then do your choice of repair.
     
  20. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 15,861

    alchemy
    Member

    Yes it does.
     
  21. Joe Blow
    Joined: Oct 29, 2016
    Posts: 263

    Joe Blow
    Member

    I agree with repairing the wood in place. I had some bad spots on both side rails. I dug out the punk and liberally coated the bad area (and anything borderline on the rail) with wood hardner....turns wood hard as a rock. Then filled the divits with marine epoxy.
    41qujLBSqzL._AC_.jpg
     
    Gigantor likes this.
  22. Mr T body
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 2,153

    Mr T body
    Alliance Vendor
    from SoCal

    You'll find the side rails are nailed to the trough as well as bolted to the 1/4 window wood (from the top) to hold the door opening dimensions. It is also bolted to brackets in the corners of the header. The bows are also screwed in from the top. You will not be able to replace the header, rails and bows as they were originally. Unless you HAVE to jump down the rabbit hole, don't.
     
    Gigantor likes this.
  23. 61gasser
    Joined: Dec 23, 2010
    Posts: 69

    61gasser
    Member

    They make a pill that does the same thing...
     
  24. Joe Blow
    Joined: Oct 29, 2016
    Posts: 263

    Joe Blow
    Member

    But Minwax wood hardener doesn't require a prescription........
     
    Last edited: May 9, 2020
  25. wdglide
    Joined: Jun 21, 2009
    Posts: 253

    wdglide
    Member

    kidcampbell71, Pist-n-Broke and clem like this.
  26. Dino 64 and tb33anda3rd like this.

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2020 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.