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Technical Model A coupe rain gutter question

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Bluedot, Feb 22, 2014.

  1. Bluedot
    Joined: Oct 26, 2011
    Posts: 306

    Bluedot
    Member

    Working on a '30 Model A Coupe, but this question may well pertain to other cars of that era. I'm an amateur working with simple tools, so if this is a stupid question, forgive me.
    I was prepping the body yesterday for some Por15, rinsing off one of the prep chemicals, and then compressed air blowing it dry. The gutters are in good shape, but I noticed that water gets in behind the gutters, as they are apparently only spot welded to the body at short intervals for the entire length. Not a lot of water, and not a big problem, but I'm wondering if I should caulk or seam seal just a little in the crack between the gutter and body. I've never heard this mentioned - maybe because it's so little water that it's a non-issue. On the other hand, since I can't get behind the gutter to properly prep and protect from rusting, I'd think best to keep water out if possible.
    So, do you think I should
    1. Put a very small (barely visible) bead of seam seal or paintable caulk along the top edge of the gutter? Or...
    2. Just slather the peewauket out of it with Por15 so it runs in behind the gutter? Or...
    3. Other suggestions? Or...
    4. Ignore it because it's just not that important?
    Thanks for any advice or experience.
     
  2. mr.chevrolet
    Joined: Jul 19, 2006
    Posts: 6,845

    mr.chevrolet
    Member

    i'm going to use seamsealer or a paintable caulk on my A.
     
  3. TULSA
    Joined: Sep 27, 2008
    Posts: 659

    TULSA
    Member
    from Tulsa

    Hey Bluedot! I would use some seam sealer, wouldnt hurt in any location like that. Use your finger to press it down there... depending how fat your fingers are.
     
  4. 5window
    Joined: Jan 29, 2005
    Posts: 7,521

    5window
    Member

    You do know Por 15 has some pretty particular prepping recommendations and needs to be top coated,too-right?
     

  5. Bluedot
    Joined: Oct 26, 2011
    Posts: 306

    Bluedot
    Member

    Thanks for the advice. Seam sealer it is. RE the POR15 prep, yes, I knew. I've used products like Loctite's Extend before, can't imagine POR15 is that much different. Both chemically convert rust to a black surface, but the POR15 seems to require more steps. However, POR15 seems to get such rave reviews that I thought I'd try it this time. I sanded as much of the surface rust and paint as I could, then POR's Marine Clean, then their Prep & Ready. I water rinsed after each, per instructions, and when blowing it dry, that's when I noticed the gutter issue.

    5Window, I'll hijack my own thread here and ask another question about POR15. I will be shooting lacquer. I am assuming that I can shoot primer-surfacer over the POR15 without a primer/sealer first. Is that correct? The POR15 directions say that once dry, no solvent will remove it, so I would think a lacquer based primer-surface (lacquer thinner is mostly MEK) would be OK. Yes? No? I don't wanna do this twice!
     
  6. Canuck
    Joined: Jan 4, 2002
    Posts: 1,042

    Canuck
    Member

    Was at the same point you are, trying to decide what to do ----

    Decided to remove the gutters and clean and epoxy behind. Glad I did, this is what I found ---

    Repaired rust out and also a weak section of the gutter. Rossette welded back on from the rear. Seam sealed top and bottom seams to keep water out.

    This was possible because the wood was removed for replacement allowing access,

    Should be good for another 80 years.

    Canuck
     

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  7. Bluedot
    Joined: Oct 26, 2011
    Posts: 306

    Bluedot
    Member

    Canuck, that may well be what I should do, but it is way beyond my abilities and tools. Plus I've already put all the new wood in it, so no access. I will POR15, seamseal, and cross my fingers. I am at least fortunate in that the top 3/4 of the body seems to have no more than superficial surface rust anyway. No pitting or rust thru except in the bottom 5-10", and that has been patched.
     
  8. Hackerbilt
    Joined: Aug 13, 2001
    Posts: 6,243

    Hackerbilt
    Member

    I think you REALLY need to do some serious homework about using and overcoating POR15! If I remember correctly there is lots of info on their website.
     
  9. Bluedot
    Joined: Oct 26, 2011
    Posts: 306

    Bluedot
    Member

    Thanks for the push, Hack. I just did, and it appears I am proceeding correctly. But I did learn some things though - like POR15 is good for filling pinholes. Works with fiberglass. Use plastic food wrap between can and lid to prevent permanent sealing of lid on can. Useful things to know!
     
  10. ydopen
    Joined: Mar 14, 2010
    Posts: 200

    ydopen
    Member

    Blue dot thanks for lid tip. I just used some por15 on a door last night. I am on my way to put plastic under the lid.

    John
     
  11. Bluedot
    Joined: Oct 26, 2011
    Posts: 306

    Bluedot
    Member

    Ydopen, I was too late. :( Brand new can (qt), never been opened, and I used a standard paint can opener. The lid was stuck on so hard that I totally ruined it getting it off. I only used half of it, and I cannot reseal the can. All I had handy was a CoolWhip tub, so I put the remaider in there. With the plastic food wrap. But I'll bet it is not airtight enuf - I'll prolly lose the last half.
    I was impressed with how far it went though. I brushed 2 coats on an A coupe body, with doors, and it only took 1/2 qt. Stuff sure is messy!
     
  12. Olderchild
    Joined: Nov 21, 2012
    Posts: 476

    Olderchild
    Member
    from Ohio

    Bluedot go to napa or your nearest auto paint supplier ,they will sell you another can;)
     
  13. Bluedot
    Joined: Oct 26, 2011
    Posts: 306

    Bluedot
    Member

    Not in this little town late on a Saturday afternoon
     
  14. silversink
    Joined: May 3, 2008
    Posts: 915

    silversink
    Member

  15. scjstang67
    Joined: Feb 9, 2014
    Posts: 10

    scjstang67
    Member
    from Tennessee

    there is also a material called dripcheck by 3M
     
  16. What silversink said. I would like to see pictures of your car when coated.
     
  17. 5window
    Joined: Jan 29, 2005
    Posts: 7,521

    5window
    Member

    Drill a screw hole in the bottom of the can, drain it out, fill the hole. Store it in the refrigerator. I don't recall all the details but it requires special treament and product to coat POR 15-better read the directions on line. Impervious doesn't mean your topcoat will stick.
     
  18. Bluedot
    Joined: Oct 26, 2011
    Posts: 306

    Bluedot
    Member

    What I read on their site was recoat with anything after totally cured. It needs to be scuffed with 600 grit. I was also impressed to see that that minor hole repairs can be done with their mat material and POR 15, just like the procedure for fiberglass, and also they have a POR15 putty. Pinholes? Tape the back, POR 15 front, remove tape when cured and POR 15 the back. Easy.
    The further I wander around on their site, the more I see you can do with the stuff.
     

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