I have a '30 Model A Coupe, 4" chop, and am having some challenges putting the door glass in. As I understand it, the door top is supposed to be able to be removed, via three screws holding it on. They were badly stuck, had to drill them out, but the door top piece is still solidly in place. So, two questions: 1. Do I really need to remove that door top to get the glass in? Or can it be carefully maneuvered in thru the window opening before the channels are installed? I got away with that on a '29 CCPU (unchopped) a few years ago. I tried it only briefly on the coupe, but was afraid if garfing up paint, figured door top was the right way. Now I wonder if I've gone down the wrong road. 2. If I must remove the door top, what holds it on besides the 3 obvious screws? On each end, it almost looks like there is a rivet or a spot weld, but that makes no sense when screws were used along the horizontal surface. Someone will probably suggest consulting with Glassman (Chris Blattie - he's terrific), from whom I bought the glass. He did not know either, and had never installed door glass on a chopped A. Lotta chopped A Coupes out there - surely someone knows the easy solution here.
My guess is even a 4 inch chop glass won't go in from the bottom, I know 3" chop won't. 3 screws in the top, the side divit is just an alignment pin (1/6"???) and will pop apart. You have the screws out and it's stuck? it's just rust and time. work it, tap it with a HAMBer, pry with a screwdriver. BUT!!!!!don't tweak it!! or it will fit like shit when you put it back together. Don't ask how i know
Once you remove the door top(4 screws) the glass will slide right down and yes, you have to remove door top to get glass in, no other way.. You don't have to cut the door glass on chopped A's, you just don't roll the window up as far...
Scrap, I see only 3 screws. I wonder if Henry changed the design sometime during production. No matter, looks like the top has to come off. My glass BTW was made 4" shorter already, but height isn't the problem - length is. Chubbie, thanx for the info about the "divits". Now I know not to drill those out. I'll go back to battle this afternoon, hoping it doesn't take as long as the door handles did. Fought that fight for over a month last winter!! Sure wishing I'd done this before paint, duh.
The center screw needs to be shorter than the outer ones, its real easy to have one thats too long and put a pimple in the sheetmetal underneath.
Junkyard, having drilled out the old screws, I'd have had no way to know that. Big save, thank you. HRP, that's exactly what I'll hafta do. I knew no way to perfectly center the drill bit in the screw, almost surely ruined the old threads. But before any of that, gotta get that door top off. Gonna be interesting.
it'll come off it's just rusted on a little, rubber hammer it, I drilled my screws out and just put in pop rivets window goes in easy as hell......I used plexi for mine car in avatar 3 in. chop
I've chopped 3, drill the screw and the rivits on the end. Catch the edge and gently tap it up. It will come off. How bout pics of you car?
On another note, when you run the regulator up and out of the lower part of door and attach it to the track on the bottom of the glass, be real carefull as the roller/arm assembly really press up against the painted edge of door.
Btw, the glass slides easier if you don't shorten it. If the glass is 4" shorter it tends to "rock" or bind in the track. Oh yeah the top rail needs to come off, the screws always need to be drilled out.
It also rolls up easier if you use say 1940 ford window cranks, at least until the channels break in.
Are you refering to the handles as in they are longer, giving more leverage? New channels definately make it tighter. I actually started a thread awhile back looking for thinner channels than what Mac's and Sac Vintage Ford sells.
yep exactly, and they look nicer i think. Alignment is important so it doesn't get in the way of the steering wheel when all the way up or down.
By memory,the outer edge of the top retainer plate also kind of clips under the rolled edge of the door, You first lift/lever the inner edge up away from the 2 locating taps at either end then carefully lift up on an angle to work the outer side down and out,if that makes sense?If you had to drill out your screws made sure the bits that are left are below the edge of your plate that way the plate can move inwards and up as you remove it.
Thanks to all who've posted - I gather this has been a challenge for others besides me. An update and a caveat, as I screwed up. Door tops off OK, felt channels in OK. I put one of the glass pieces in its metal channel/holder and then realized the the &%$#* metal channel is the same length as the glass. Which would seem right at first, until I realized the ends of it would interfere with the track channels. Stupid is as stupid does. So now I'm trying to get that glass back out of its channel so I can shorten it about a half inch on each end. Sigh...it never ends.
If memory serves correctly the track doesn't get centered on the glass either. Could be wrong though. Double check it. I remember having issues w the tudor we chopped in this regard.
An update on a related subject: The fixed glass (tempered, quarter windows and rear window). I was having a heckuva time trying to install these. The bare pane fit in the hole OK, but with the rubber seal on, no way. I beat the sheetmetal tabs and their nails as close to the surrounding wood as I could, used dishwashing soap to lube the seal a bit, still wouldn't go. So I asked my friend Chris Blattie ("Glassman" on here) if I could attempt grinding the tempered glass edges myself. He advised that if I'm careful and slow, and keep it cool, probably OK. So last night, I gave one a try. Small air grinder with a 2" 80 grit, safety glasses, mask, gloves, and outdoors in the driveway, not knowing what to expect. Material removal was very slow ( I was trying to keep it cool), but sure enough, it worked. I removed enough that with the seal, soap, and some gentle persuasion with a rubber mallet, I got it in. Tonight I'll tackle the last two. MORAL: An amateur like me can grind the edge of tempered glass. Be slow, safe, cool, and careful.
This is great info! I bought a coupe that had all the glass except the doors,for some reason, and I need to install new. The regulators are there but the channel for the glass was also gone. I am going to try this soon... Never finished
HEMINH2O, be sure to go to "Glassman" here on the HAMB for your glass. He has patterns. Products, service, pricing, and shipping are phenomenal. I don't think I've ever seen such a long string of great testimonials for any business.
So what years did the model a have these three screw plates that are removable. I went out to the garage and my 30 coupe has no signs of three screws on top of the door. -Pat
Take another look. They're flat-head screws, flush with the surface. Might have to scrape off some paint to see them.
I've found that original screws are brass and drill out easily. Tap size is 10/32 (#21 drill). Careful on the center screw...your drill and tap can make a dent on the sheet-metal just below it.
well I'm replacing the top plate. (or what's left of it) the hinge end screw is gone the middle one is almost gone and the latch end one was covered with paint. So i cleaned the paint and crud off as best as I could and soaked them with PB blaster. I'll check back on them later on. Thanks for the tips. -Pat
The Jalopy Journal
