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Projects model A coupe build from Down under New Zealand

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by whitewallwilly, Jun 23, 2014.

  1. whitewallwilly
    Joined: Apr 2, 2012
    Posts: 205

    whitewallwilly
    Member

  2. Vic Walter
    Joined: Jan 21, 2018
    Posts: 95

    Vic Walter
    Member

    That certainly is a interesting shifter. A lot of work went into it. I would be interested in knowing how well it works and happy you are with it once you have a few miles with it. Where did the idea come from ?
     
  3. whitewallwilly
    Joined: Apr 2, 2012
    Posts: 205

    whitewallwilly
    Member

    Hi Vic,I have the same shifter on my 37 Tudor,runs sbc/Muncie ,,an it works fine,,, only problem I've had was occasionally it would hang up when taking it from reverse back to neutral,,,,so I made an additional shifter lever for reverse, as you can see by the extra gear stick,my good friend Bob Anderson RIP always ran a seperate reverse gearstick on the manual hotrods he built, just something different,,, the position of the main stick put it very close to were an original stick would be say on a model A,other wise the other option being a impala shifter bolted to the tail shaft housing puts the gearstick right back into the bench seat,, if you look a few posts back you will find the advert for the shifter,,,I don't know if they are still made
    Cheers[​IMG]


    Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  4. whitewallwilly
    Joined: Apr 2, 2012
    Posts: 205

    whitewallwilly
    Member

    [​IMG]



    Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  5. whitewallwilly
    Joined: Apr 2, 2012
    Posts: 205

    whitewallwilly
    Member

    IMG_5851.jpg Went and checked the body today at the painters,,,,primed and prepped for a test paint of the firewall to make sure the colour is going to be what I'm after,,
    If it comes out okay we are going to paint underneath,firewall,trunk an around the door frames ,then will bolt body to chassis,double check th door gaps etc then finally paint the body
     
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  6. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 4,350

    sloppy jalopies
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    A buddy bondoed and painted his '32 tudor sitting on his spare frame,
    took it out for a get the bugs out run... the cowl to roof insert seam cracked all the way across...
    IMO... bolt the body to the frame you are going to use, bondo and paint it there...
     
  7. whitewallwilly
    Joined: Apr 2, 2012
    Posts: 205

    whitewallwilly
    Member

    Hi Sloppy
    That exactly what I'm going to do,,,,,we are only painting the under floor,cowl/ firewall etc,bolting the body to the chassis ,then painting the body,all the patch panels,etc were welded in before I lifted the body off the chassis
    Cheers
     
  8. whitewallwilly
    Joined: Apr 2, 2012
    Posts: 205

    whitewallwilly
    Member

    Took a few photos of the completed chassis,really stoked with how its come out, ,hopefully picking the body up tomorrow from the paint shop,,really looking forward to getting the body bac on the chassis an starting to fit interior parts,dash,fuel tank, seat base,etc,still got always to go, but definitely feel I'm making good progress and really motivated to get behind the wheel IMG_0026.JPG IMG_0063.JPG IMG_0026.JPG IMG_0033.JPG IMG_0040.JPG IMG_0052.JPG IMG_0062.JPG IMG_0063.JPG
     
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  9. hfh
    Joined: Oct 22, 2012
    Posts: 277

    hfh
    Member
    from Western MA

    Thanks for posting pictures of your excellent work.
     
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  10. Bugguts
    Joined: Aug 13, 2011
    Posts: 685

    Bugguts
    Member

    Enjoyed reading the whole thread. Looking forward to seeing more!
     
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  11. whitewallwilly
    Joined: Apr 2, 2012
    Posts: 205

    whitewallwilly
    Member

    Well a good weekend,I was hoping to have fitted the body onto the chassis this weekend ,but the paint only got sprayed on the firewall on Friday,,we mixed up the colour and tested it on the firewall,,by that stage it was time for the painter to head home,,,,, I'm pretty happy with the colour,,,, its a dark dark brown ,almost boarding on black in some light,it is semi flat, and we are going to buff it slightly to give it a slight gloss,,,so it looks like the under floor, inside, round the door an trunk edges will be done in the next few days an hopefully I can bring it home later in the week,,,,,,,
    So this weekend I removed the rear spring,,,, rounded ends and slightly tapered the face on each leaf,,,,,primed and painted each leaf,,,, and will assemble back into the chassis in the next few days,,,,,,, still trying to figure how many leaves to use as a baseline,,,,a friend suggested I might leave one of the top out to start with,,,,, if anybody has any thoughts on this please let me know,,,,,
    So today I ran a simple ignition wiring system,,,, set the points and timing,,I'm using an electric fuel pump,so primed the carb ,gave the throttle a tweak, an got fuel squirting down the carb,,,,, I had previously primed the lube system,,,,so wound it over ,presto she fired up an ran,,,,I've left the rocker covers off so as to make sure it's oiling the top end,,ran the motor for about a minute,,,,no oil yet,so I need to suss out weather I have a problem or the oil just needs to get into the lifters ,up the push rods to the rockers,,,,,,,anyone got any thoughts on this,,,,apart from the lack of oil I am rapt,,,,I only have a few trivial jobs an the chassis side of it is completely finished ,

    I will post up some progress and body pictures during this week
    Cheers
     
  12. Nicholas Coe
    Joined: Jul 5, 2017
    Posts: 1,701

    Nicholas Coe
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Tontitown

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  13. whitewallwilly
    Joined: Apr 2, 2012
    Posts: 205

    whitewallwilly
    Member

    A great night in the garage,,,,,,,,,spent a bit of time surfing different Internet forums trying to find what could be the problem with no oil to the rockers from the pushrods,,,,,,,read plenty of theories from a lot of people,,,, a lot of comments from misinformed people,,so I had a think and reckoned it needed to be a matter of elimination,,,,,,, so I had an old 283 SBC block sitting at work,spent time working out the oil galleries and flow,,,figured if I had oil pressure at the gauge port,then I must have oil flow to the number 7 & 8 lifter galleries at the rear of the block,and the lifters weren't rattling ,so I figured they must of pumped up,,,,and I had only run the engine for only about 1 1/2 minutes in total,,,,I removed the distributor and fitted my electric drill/oil pump drive tool,,,,,,wound the engine by hand while I spun the oil pump with the tool,,,80psi,,,,after about 5minutes I started to get oil seeping out of the pushrod holes,,,I have no idea why it took so long to lube up to the rockers ,so I'm ready to re fire and run the engine tomorrow,
    A couple of thoughts I'm pondering on
    1/. I was being overly cautious and actually created a possible problem when there wasn't one
    2/The up side is I now have a very good understanding of the lube system and how the oil flows throughout a SBC,
    IMG_0074.PNG IMG_0075.PNG
     
  14. Okay I have seen this before & it could be same issue. The pushrods, rockers & cam base circle not compatible to where the pushrods sit in rockers the oil holes don’t line up. So essentially the rockers block oil flow at end of pushrods. With hydraulic cam & decent springs can burn them up.
    Good luck ( or get a Flathead )
    Cheers
    Tony
     
  15. Vic Walter
    Joined: Jan 21, 2018
    Posts: 95

    Vic Walter
    Member

    oil weight to heavy ?
     
  16. whitewallwilly
    Joined: Apr 2, 2012
    Posts: 205

    whitewallwilly
    Member

    Right ,so I refired the motor over the weekend,mocked up a cooling system with the yard watering hose connected to the bottom radiator hose with a stepped down pipe fitting,
    Fired an ran the motor for around 5 minutes at 1500 rpm,oil is now following to the top end,,
    Again as I stated, being overly cautious had created a non existent problem,,,,
    So today I went to the paint shop to check progress,,,and they were in the process of painting the body IMG_5943.jpg IMG_5940.jpg IMG_5953.jpg IMG_5955.jpg
    The pics above are the final colour,in the light of day the paint is really dark dark gray/brown,I'm pretty happy with the outcome so far,,, we are going to give the paint a slight buff,,just want a little shine,but not to much,
    So I will head to town tomorrow with the pickup ,and bring the body home ,,,,
    Will post a few pics in the next few days
     

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  17. whitewallwilly
    Joined: Apr 2, 2012
    Posts: 205

    whitewallwilly
    Member

    I'm using a straight mono grade 30 weight oil,, SAE 30
     
  18. whitewallwilly
    Joined: Apr 2, 2012
    Posts: 205

    whitewallwilly
    Member

    Thanks for your thoughts,,,I sussed it out ,,I was being over cautious,,,,,,normally I set the lifters,bolt the valve covers down an fire the engine a run it ,,,,still I learnt the exact oil path flow for a SBC in doing so,so It worked out ok,,,,Thanks
     
  19. whitewallwilly
    Joined: Apr 2, 2012
    Posts: 205

    whitewallwilly
    Member

    Was easy to get out of bed this morning,time to go get the body from the paint shop,,, IMG_5985.jpg and unloaded into the garage ,first job tomorrow will be installing sound deadning in the doors and Inside body panels, IMG_5981.jpg
     
  20. whitewallwilly
    Joined: Apr 2, 2012
    Posts: 205

    whitewallwilly
    Member

    Fitted new axles I picked up while in California a couple of months ago,,,these were custom made to suit the outboard support housing,the axle shaft seal is situated where the bearing would normally be positioned in the housing ,and the id of the seal runs on a machined surface inside the shrink ring IMG_6008.jpg spent a couple of hours polishing the firewall,pretty happy with the colour,, IMG_6012.jpg started bolting some of the brackets to the firewall area,the one on the leftbolts to the top side of the steering column drop ,,the other one goes down to the middle centre of the dash,,it is hinged at the firewall,I'm mounting the relay and fuses to this ,so it will swing down to give easy access to them,,also started Dyna matting the firewall,cowl area IMG_6016.jpg Bolted in the remote oil and temp gauges, IMG_6018.jpg will post up more progress pics over the next week,,,,
    Cheers and thanks for looking
     
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  21. whitewallwilly
    Joined: Apr 2, 2012
    Posts: 205

    whitewallwilly
    Member

    Starting to fit up the behind dash stuff, an lifted the body on t the chassis ,,,over the weekend I will shim the body mounts to align the doors,I've fitted all the door latches, catches,rubber bumpers an window regulators,also start wiring jobs,wiring dash gauges with a plug ,an starting to mount the regulator,fuse holder,relay boxes,,, still away to go but buzzing on progrss,,, IMG_6043.jpg

    Part A meeting Part B,,, IMG_6090.jpg Will start shimming body this weekend, IMG_6095.jpg
     
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  22. whitewallwilly
    Joined: Apr 2, 2012
    Posts: 205

    whitewallwilly
    Member

    Bit more progress,shimmed up the body mounts, took a bit of time but got the door alignment pretty good,,, finished of the weekend stripping the paint off the 36 headlights ready for repainting to match the body,,,and made a template pattern for the firewall upholstery,,,going to upholster the car with recycled leather from grandma's old leather couch,,,,, still trying to decide on the width of the pleats,, marked out 3" one side,an 4" on the other,,,,going to mark out 1 1/2", and 2" next,,,then as a self confessed protagonist pick which width I think will work best for a early 60s era,,,, IMG_6146.jpg
     
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  23. whitewallwilly
    Joined: Apr 2, 2012
    Posts: 205

    whitewallwilly
    Member

    Bit more progress,, needed a steady hand for this,, IMG_6162.jpg . Cut out the underfelt for the trunk ,and fitted fuel tank,,,progress is coming along fine,,just need more hours in the day IMG_6174.jpg
     
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  24. whitewallwilly
    Joined: Apr 2, 2012
    Posts: 205

    whitewallwilly
    Member

    Finally got the firewall pad in place , pleats are 1 3/4"spacing ,now to secure it ,then wiring,cables, temp capillary,oil tubing etc can be put thru the various holes,,,,,pretty happy and starting to see light at the end of the tunnel IMG_6249.jpg IMG_0113.JPG IMG_0111.JPG
     
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  25. bubba55
    Joined: Feb 27, 2011
    Posts: 346

    bubba55
    Member

    Morning - not sure but you might want to check out yer Eastwood insulation - have read where when it gets hot the - rubber ? melts and causes a mess - read some time back on the H.A.M.B. Where others were upset with using an Eastwood insulation


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  26. whitewallwilly
    Joined: Apr 2, 2012
    Posts: 205

    whitewallwilly
    Member

    Will check it out, anyone got any thoughts on this,,, shows it can be used on the firewall,an it is for heat resistantance,
    Cheers
     
  27. Off work today, because of potential hurricane threat. Fired up the coffee pot and the computer.
    Stumbled across this thread, partially because always curious what's going on, in other parts of the world. How much more difficult is it, to build a Hot Rod, such as this, outside the states??
    Fantastic traditional build!! Really love the old fashioned look of the engine. Thanks for sharing.
    JT
     
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  28. bubba55
    Joined: Feb 27, 2011
    Posts: 346

    bubba55
    Member

    Just went under search and typed in Eastwood insulation and found under topics article you might want to read
    Really like yer car - bubba working on 30 coupe meself


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  29. nunattax
    Joined: Jan 10, 2011
    Posts: 2,362

    nunattax
    Member

    PICTURES BUBBA PICTURES
     
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  30. whitewallwilly
    Joined: Apr 2, 2012
    Posts: 205

    whitewallwilly
    Member

    Hi,
    With our transport rules and regulations in NZ it is getting tougher all the time to build a hotrod,as the build progresses components and fabrication etc need to be complied and inspected to meet the Low Volume Vehicle requirements as set out in the manual ,this covers brakes ,steeering,chassis mods,etc etc,,it is not the end of the world and with a bit of thought during the build compliance can be accomplished,we require a fender exemption for fenderless cars,which must be pre 1934,
    So there is a bit of red tape to get through,but it does make for safer well built hotrod s
    Cheers
     
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