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Model A body on 1932 frame subrails

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by VAPHEAD, Nov 28, 2009.

  1. Ralph Moore
    Joined: May 1, 2007
    Posts: 627

    Ralph Moore
    Member

    Eric,

    Can't wait to see some updated installation pics. Anxious to get started on mine.

    Ralph
     
  2. 30TudorSedan
    Joined: Sep 20, 2007
    Posts: 365

    30TudorSedan
    Member

  3. Tank
    Joined: Nov 8, 2002
    Posts: 749

    Tank
    Member

  4. Bib Overalls
    Joined: Aug 3, 2001
    Posts: 4,062

    Bib Overalls
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Well, I cut my rear sub-rails out today. So I guess I am committed.
     

    Attached Files:

  5. OCTANE ORPHAN
    Joined: Jan 15, 2008
    Posts: 128

    OCTANE ORPHAN
    Member
    from Ohio

    I cut the quarters more like 32 roadster quarters, I also removed the rear brace below the tail panel to make room for the deuce tank...

    [​IMG]
     
    firepilot likes this.
  6. ROBERT JAM
    Joined: Nov 13, 2002
    Posts: 1,147

    ROBERT JAM
    Member

    Does anybody have these installed in there body yet?How did it work out? Any pic's
     
  7. Bib Overalls
    Joined: Aug 3, 2001
    Posts: 4,062

    Bib Overalls
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I'm very pleased with the subrails I got from Vaphead.

    I wound up using portions of the side rails only. The wide cross member with the bead rolls is intended for a vehicle with a flat rear frame cross member. It will not work with an arched Model A frame cross member. If I was buying again I would ask for a kit without the cross members.

    To get a tight fit I had to scribe the side rails at the front of the wheel wells.

    A good installation requires a tight fit between the sub rails and the wheel wells. Next time I will draw the two together with pop rivets or screws and nuts. And then plug weld and fill the holes.

    I don't have any good pictures of the installed sub rails. You can, however, see a bit of them in the pictures I took of my bulkhead frame installation.

    Good stuff.
     

    Attached Files:

  8. Hey Steve, I'd like to see a few more shots of that bulk head, fixin to start mine today.
    I saw in one of kiwi kevins post where he used cardboard but left it a little shy, he said he was going to use seam sealer around the edge so he didn't have to weld to the body panels.


     
  9. HomemadeHardtop57
    Joined: Nov 15, 2007
    Posts: 4,146

    HomemadeHardtop57
    Member

    not to bump an old thread..but the Vaphead subrail kit is incredible...do yourself a favor and save a weeks worth of fab work and get the kit
     
  10. StrickV8
    Joined: Dec 20, 2005
    Posts: 964

    StrickV8
    Member

    Can you post pics of your installation?
     
  11. coopsdaddy
    Joined: Mar 7, 2007
    Posts: 884

    coopsdaddy
    Member
    from oklahoma

    need some info,theres nothing i found on his website,would like to see the kit for a model a rear crossmember and get a price
     
  12. VAPHEAD
    Joined: May 13, 2002
    Posts: 3,257

    VAPHEAD
    BANNED

    For the A rear crossmember the rear "pan" is shorter.
    Working on a rear cover too...

    coopsdaddy,I'll answer your PM's ina second.
     

    Attached Files:

  13. bump for more feedback from folks that have used these
     
  14. panhead_pete
    Joined: Feb 22, 2006
    Posts: 2,266

    panhead_pete
    Member

    Hey Eric, do you do an entire subfloor kit with as part of it for those of us with nothing but a floppy body shell?
     
  15. :) I suggested the same thing to him earlier this week.

    The cat's meow would be a kit that went from the cowl clear to the ass end for a...
    -28/9 Coupe
    -28/9 Roadster
    -30/1 Coupe
    -30/2 Roadster
    ... in that particular order.

    (guess who just removed all of his old subrails?)

    /\ this guy /\
     
  16. Ralph Moore
    Joined: May 1, 2007
    Posts: 627

    Ralph Moore
    Member

    So I'm just getting started with my subrail kit from Eric, and I'm trying to figure out the best way to attack it. I have channeled the body down about an inch by raising the cross rails and now the subrail is sitting on the frame at the widest point before it rises up in the center. Now the subrail kit does not line up perfectly as intended.
    Although I have an idea to mate the new subrail kit right at the point where the second crossrail is at the point behind the door opening. I think this will work well, except it is about three inches short of reaching that point. I could fabricate something, but it would be easier if someone had a piece left over from another kit to weld onto it. If you have such a piece please PM me. I have also planned to shape my wheel wells to match the frame curvature. I am not bobbing the rear framerails off completely(leaving enough for a spreader bar) and in order to make the rear of the body look right, I plan to take a stock rear subrail and section it to fit in the approx 1" space between the frame and rear pan.
    I am sure I'll change it as I go, but that's the plan.
     
  17. Ralph Moore
    Joined: May 1, 2007
    Posts: 627

    Ralph Moore
    Member

    Finally got busy yesterday and started the install of the rear subrail kit.
    I started by shooting a line along the outer edge of the remaining subrail from the B pillar to the rear corner of the car. This gave me an idea of where to cut the subrail. My car is channeled 1" so in order to keep it from dropping any when I cut the rear of the subrail, I put a 3/4" piece of wood under the subrail at the door jamb section. I may replace it with hardwood or steel later. Then I cut that portion of the old subrail out.
     

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  18. Ralph Moore
    Joined: May 1, 2007
    Posts: 627

    Ralph Moore
    Member

    Next I fit the new rear subrail, which was a little short, so I added a piece to mate it to the old subrail right at the second crossrail. I also trimmed the flange at the rear of the subrail where it hit the body, and in the front where it will be welded to the portion of the original subrail. Once I had the fit right I tacked it in place.
     

    Attached Files:

  19. Ralph Moore
    Joined: May 1, 2007
    Posts: 627

    Ralph Moore
    Member

    I managed to fit the pass side in and test fit the cross channel by the end of the day. The floor portion between the new subrails will be 35-1/2" across. I'll try and get a little more accomplished on it today.
     

    Attached Files:

  20. Bib Overalls
    Joined: Aug 3, 2001
    Posts: 4,062

    Bib Overalls
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Ralph,

    Nice work. Tell me about those rectangular frame extensions.
     
  21. Ralph Moore
    Joined: May 1, 2007
    Posts: 627

    Ralph Moore
    Member

    Well I took the subrail that comes from Riley Automotive down to a local Sheetmetal shop and had them make a straight section that would mate to the same shape. I only needed a foot, but had them make 4' as the cost was only a few dollars more.
    I figured someone else doing the same thing might need a little of it.

    Here's the work i finished today. I had to redo the pass side as I didn't like the way it turned out. I also moved the crossrail closer to the B pillar before I tacked it into place.
     

    Attached Files:

  22. Ralph Moore
    Joined: May 1, 2007
    Posts: 627

    Ralph Moore
    Member

    And finally, it's done! I went with a different approach to the rear of the body. Since I had to totally rebuild it, I made a piece that joined the ends of the subrails accross the rear and then I extended the quarters down over it. I then bolted the rear panel to it, just like a stock Model A.
    I'm ok with welding sheetmetal, but the hammer and dolly work kicks my butt, well at least it's solid now.
     

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  23. edwardlloyd
    Joined: Aug 2, 2003
    Posts: 2,034

    edwardlloyd
    Member
    from Germany

  24. JoRodder
    Joined: Dec 5, 2010
    Posts: 56

    JoRodder
    Member
    from Belgium

  25. FourBangNCanuck
    Joined: May 4, 2011
    Posts: 166

    FourBangNCanuck
    Member
    from ON, Canada

    Just got my Sub Rail kit in last week. Just wondering how the rest of you guys routed around the rear wheel well. I did not plan on cutting it out in order to make this work.
    Question is would you guys pie cut the well in order to pull it out a bit? Or modify the new sub rail to contour around this?
    Hopefully the pictures can do the explaining for me!

    [​IMG]
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  26. jmccully
    Joined: Aug 31, 2010
    Posts: 26

    jmccully
    Member
    from ms.

    I'm interested in buying a set of these. It would save myself a lot of time and maybe even a few dollhairs.
    I have read all the reviews on Riley auto and even know a few people personally who have had bad encounters with this company, and I'm still very hesitant about doing business with them, but has anyone had any real recent bad encounters with Vaphead or Riley auto?
     
  27. spitzbohunkel
    Joined: May 26, 2008
    Posts: 21

    spitzbohunkel
    Member

    Try Steadfast Mfg out of Mansfield Oh, new member on the hamb

    dave
     
  28. HotRodMicky
    Joined: Oct 14, 2001
    Posts: 1,755

    HotRodMicky
    Member

    If you buy them from ebay , isn`t the buyer protected?
    Good product , but fucked up seller...
     
  29. junk yard kid
    Joined: Nov 11, 2007
    Posts: 2,714

    junk yard kid
    Member

    I got mine through ebay, but i dont think he sells these anymore. Oh well glad i got a set.
     

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