Projects Model a banger sport coupe to 8BA

Got the front end off today. Waiting until my patience comes back before I try to get the 4 broken head studs out. Been soaking them with PB blaster for a week.
Now is a good time to change the oil as well.

 

Good thing I pulled the pan....

 

Don't know if it's just me, but when I try to play the video, it says "This video is private."

 

Got it all back together then I cleaned the front portion of the frame and gave it a shot of self etching primer and rollbar/chassis paint before I put the splash pans back on.

This week I am going to pull the front hubs apart to check the brakes and grease the bearings. Replacing the wheel cylinders too.

 

While you have the front hubs apart you might take a look at the Kingpins and see if they are in good shape. Looks like they are stock model A so shouldn't be too hard to replace if necessary.

 

I plan on getting a drop axle pretty soon so I will replace the king pins when I'm installing it.

 

After many failed attempts it's time to take the old rig to a tap and drill shop. Will let you know the results. This weekend I plan on reassembling the motor so more pics to come.

 

It's should be a good weekend in Long Beach! 80 degrees, sunshine and a motor being assembled!

 

Nice! Good luck

 

glares from the ladies, now thats funny. I like the flush set up. Did you run a pump to circulate the solution through the Engine?

 

I would pull the hose that was attached to the bottom fitting and drain it into a bucket, then let the heavy stuff settle to the bottom and then fill it up again. It worked surprising well and the fittings were less than $15 for everything. I'd recommend flushing it with water first, then use the Evaporust. That way the bulk of the dirt, dust, and rust is out of it.

 

Finally got the new studs and the head installed tonight. Can I use high temp clear coat on the head? I love how it looks raw but don't want it to rust. I do have the Ford green engine paint on standby.

 

What was your cost on getting the studs removed?
I am in a similar situation.

 

You are probably going to get lucky on this one. I bet there are shops in your area that have opened to support Boeing and their subcontractors. If you can't find anything with the computer try asking at machine shops and auto parts stores for a recommendation. I had it done on a Model B about 30 years ago but don't remember what I paid. It was easier/cheaper than finding a new block or risking having someone that didn't know what they were doing work on it.

Charlie Stephens

 

Sent you a PM

 

Got some work done yesterday. Painted the motor, and installed the intake and exhaust.

 

looking good!!

 

Looks great!

 

Got myself a birthday present. Ordered a couple 7.50-16's for the rear. $200 shipped to my door. They are Hiway Masters. Hopefully I get my distributor back soon so I can get this baby fired up. Will let you fellas know how they work once it's on the road.

 

Excellent thread!
Seems like deja vu to me

 

Got some stuff done this morning.

 

Primed and painted. Now onto the rearend.

 

Dropped the trans and pulled the flywheel to have her lose a few pounds and put a V8 clutch in it.
Didn't foresee myself doing all this work when I bought it. Might as well do it right the first time around.

 

Decided to try something I haven't seen on here. I was thinking that these springs are much like a diving board, in the way that if I shorten the springs, it will give them a longer stroke before activating the next spring, thus maintaining bottoming resistance while lowering the ride height and removing harshness. When removing springs completely, it takes out a progressive "step" in the stroke so why not just shorten them. It may have been a mistake but I figured I would try it out before I buy a lowering spring. Also I don't have a spring spreader to remove it... Let me know what you guys think of this theory. I marked them so hopefully it makes sense.

 

Is there any negatives to this or did I discover the holy grail of laziness....

 

in theory it sounds like it would work...

 

It sounds like it may work, will be interested to see how it performs. Enjoying this thread, keep the updates coming in.

 

Really nice thread. I'm in. You only did the head on the banger so far? Will you do more? Also wanna hop up a model b banger for my A coupe.

 

@höllenteufel So far I have a 6:1 compression head on it, weber downdraft carb, Model B distributor with an FS electronic ignition and a flame-thrower coil. When I had the head off, I found out that at some point it had been rebuilt because the pistons were .030 over. I have the flywheel out right now to be lightened and a brand new V8 clutch is sitting in my car, I have to drop it off tomorrow so they can be balanced together. I'd like to put a 39 trans in it but I can't afford the conversion right now. I'm currently working on the rearend to get it all cleaned up and install the juice brakes.

 

There is a fixture that you can buy from Snyder's or Macs that bolts to an adjacent stud hole and centers on the busted stud to drill it. Grind the stud off flat and install the fixture. It comes with a long drill bit and a long guide so you drill in straight, at a right angle, to the block. You then re-tap and follow up with a bottoming tap to clean up the hole. I've used one of these successfully many times.
Replace the studs with the moly ones. Spend the money for them. The carbon steel ones are good for one use only.

Good luck

Larry