I've read posts here about using lead for body work. I've seen guys do it and have tried it myself, without too much success. I want to try it again. I'll just have to take the time to learn. The question I have is about the lead itself. I know it's suppose to be 70/30. The local hardware store had 60/40, they also have solid lead. I'm thinking I can mix the two and come up with a close 70/30 mixture. I'm thinking one pound of 60/40 with 1/4 of straight lead should come out close to 70/30. Or can't you melt the two together. I know I can order it from different places but I want to be able to buy it as I need it locally and also save on shipping charges, lead ain't cheap to ship. I don't know exactly how much I need either so if I run out I can take a quick trip down to the hardware store and pick up some more. Also, the hardware store has tinning paste. Is this the same stuff that is used for auto leading? This is the description: All purpose, soft soldering paste flux ideal for use with 95/5 and other common solders such as 60/40, 50/50, and 40/60. Can be used on all solderable metals including copper, tin, zinc, nickel, and sheet lead. Do not use on stainless steel, aluminum, ormagnesium. Not recommended for electronic use. When heated, it reduces surface tension and allows the solder to flow easily and uniformly into the joint. Flows smoothly into even the smallest cavity. Cleans and fluxes in one operation. Smooth consistencymakes it easy to apply. Lead free and acid free - safe to use on potable water systems. Special oil base protects the solder joint against corrosion. Low scorching and low spattering. Meets: OF 506 Type 1 A, MIL - F - 4995, and MIL - F S -6872A.
that flux is an acid cleaner not a tinning flux, sure fire paint issue. Mixing lead to make body solder, antimony is added to body solder to keep a plastic state at correct temperature, once melted it changes, grainy lead dosen't spread well, try melting some filings into a bar and use it before you sacrifice a good stick lol
Are you wanting to use lead because it's "traditional"? There's a reason they stopped using it and moved on to better products.
no, not necessarily better, just easier and more convenient. THAT's why so many quit using it. body man in a can...
Check this out from the "Master" :http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jQ_85fp1avs more info on the sidebars too.
In my opinion plastic fillers took the place of metal finishing. Lead has its uses but cannot be used in the same way as plastic fillers. Metal finishing comes first and a little lead used where its not possible to metal finish. I show metal finishing and some lead loading on my youtube footage. You would be best off buying the correct lead. David
Here's what I know from experience. Use the proper tinning paste, it is THE critical component, besides getting the metal utterly clean. To tin: spread the paste over clean metal. Heat until slightly bubbling. Wipe off. If the metal is not completely shiny, do over. That shiny-ness is the metal/lead tellingyou that it will accept more lead. Unshiny surfaces will not accept lead, and will rust. After that IMHO, all is good. I've successfully leaded with telephone co. lead, melted wheel weights, as well as trad 70/30. Once you're tinned, all else is skill. Another tip: at some point, you'll need to put the torch down. The parent metal can retain enough heat to melt the lead, at which point it will fall on the ground like a popsicle in Arizona's midday sun. Practice alone will give you that experience. MAPP gas has been used by me with great success. Cosmo P.S. I didn't read the books, either. I knew how to solder properly, this is not a lot different, IMHO.
It is described as being "Lead free and acid free". I used regular solder flux on a fender years ago when I sealed my weld seams with plain solder and within a short period the filler bubbled up. When I stripped the fender I found massive rust everywhere I soldered. I cleaned up the rust and resoldered using a product like this, it could have been the same stuff, I remember it saying "Nocorrode" on the label. The fender has held up for almost 20 years now. I just used the solder at that time to seal the seams, this time I want to build the area up some. The area I want to apply the lead to is an area I feel filler won't work. I'm wanting to get the area(s) built up enough so all I have to use is a thin layer of filler to smooth it out. The last time I tried to lead I couldn't get to the balance of not enough heat and too much heat. I finally gave up and just sealed the seamed as I stated above. I've done a fair share of soldering in the electrical field and on copper buss bars. I did the above sealing using the "Nocorrode" flux and it worked fine. I'm not sure if it was the same product as the picture I posted, it's been a long time.
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