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Projects Mild custom '51 Pontiac Chieftain

Discussion in 'Traditional Customs' started by PhilA, Nov 4, 2019.

  1. PhilA
    Joined: Sep 6, 2018
    Posts: 140

    PhilA
    Member

    Re: Alternator- I just didn't spin it up fast enough on the bench.

    Gave it a bit of beans (2500 rpm) and out went the light.



    Now, the light goes out when I start the engine. I guess it just lost its magnetism and needed a kick to get going. Better end to the evening, that.

    Phil

    Edit: Never mind, I had hooked the alternator output to the switched side of the ignition to get the ammeter to read, turned the switch off without thinking and burned up the 12-to-6 converter on the back of the dash for the fuel gauge.
    Oops.
     
    Last edited: Nov 29, 2019
  2. Lloyd's paint & glass
    Joined: Nov 16, 2019
    Posts: 253

    Lloyd's paint & glass
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    All of those small victories add up Mr. Phil, i wish i had your patience....
     
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  3. PhilA
    Joined: Sep 6, 2018
    Posts: 140

    PhilA
    Member

    Some days I don't have my patience.

    Those are the days I just lock the door and walk away.

    I just ordered another converter, should be in on the 7th. I'm going to put plugs in the loom if it's that easy to fill the cabin with smoke and the acrid smell of burning electronics.

    Now what I need to do is get some wire long enough to hook the alternator into the unswitched side of the circuit and do it right.

    Phil
     
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  4. Lloyd's paint & glass
    Joined: Nov 16, 2019
    Posts: 253

    Lloyd's paint & glass
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    Even on your worse day you are way more patient and detail oriented than i am. I thought about your thread while i worked on my car today, and i was ashamed of myself for not doing better lol
     
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  5. PhilA
    Joined: Sep 6, 2018
    Posts: 140

    PhilA
    Member

    I like to say "methodical".

    Through experience I have found that in order to be able to fix something without having to troubleshoot blindly it pays to learn how the thing works.
    So, I have been doing a lot of learning. I've been corrected by people who know better and I've tried to learn from it.

    It also helps that I'm not on any kind of official time schedule. I was aiming for October of this year; that has passed so I'm back on evenings and weekends trying to chip away at it.

    Phil
     
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  6. v8flat44
    Joined: Nov 13, 2017
    Posts: 232

    v8flat44

    Love the car & your keep toittivness. A grampa & 2 uncles drove straight Pontiacs...i've always liked them.
    Love the memories this thread brings back 4 me. Hang in there Phil !
     
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  7. Lloyd's paint & glass
    Joined: Nov 16, 2019
    Posts: 253

    Lloyd's paint & glass
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I play the same game every winter, i pick up a new project and bust my hind end to get it done enough to drive to the hot rod reunion in June, then i finish what's left after that. Then i sell it or trade it, and start over again lol
     
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  8. PhilA
    Joined: Sep 6, 2018
    Posts: 140

    PhilA
    Member

    20191201_173659_1.gif
    This afternoon I had a few minutes, so spent it working on the car.

    20191201_173906.jpg

    More to follow

    Phil
     
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  9. Lloyd's paint & glass
    Joined: Nov 16, 2019
    Posts: 253

    Lloyd's paint & glass
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  10. PhilA
    Joined: Sep 6, 2018
    Posts: 140

    PhilA
    Member

    Yes, but forever undoing the same 10 bolts...
     
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  11. Lloyd's paint & glass
    Joined: Nov 16, 2019
    Posts: 253

    Lloyd's paint & glass
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Lol I've been there!!!!! That made me cackle!
     
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  12. PhilA
    Joined: Sep 6, 2018
    Posts: 140

    PhilA
    Member

    20191201_191352.jpg
    Bought an itty bitty oilcan and filled it with Marvel oil. Spun the engine over and did all the valves. Going to let that sit overnight and redo a bit more tomorrow then put it together again.

    20191201_193420.jpg
    All oiled up for the night. Man, that's gonna smoke out the garage when I start it up.

    Still, if it does run on all cylinders I'll be happy.

    Phil
     
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  13. PhilA
    Joined: Sep 6, 2018
    Posts: 140

    PhilA
    Member

    20191201_192926.jpg
    Little details like this do worry me though. I'm hoping the pistons are reversible because the only identifying marks are randomly distributed.

    Phil
     
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  14. Lloyd's paint & glass
    Joined: Nov 16, 2019
    Posts: 253

    Lloyd's paint & glass
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Did you pull the springs and work the valves by hand? I wouldn't worry about the pistons Phil, i only see the .040 stamp, i don't see a notch denoting position, you have the rods in there correct. I'm sure you're good
     
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  15. PhilA
    Joined: Sep 6, 2018
    Posts: 140

    PhilA
    Member

    I was figuring it doesn't matter which way the piston is put onto the wrist then.

    I didn't pull the valves, I do not have the correct tool. I just used gentle persuasion on exhaust 8 and then oiled the daylights out of each stem with Marvel.

    That can sit, I'll spin it over again tonight and let it sit; same tomorrow, add a bit more, let it soak, spin it over and reassemble and see how it plays ball.

    If not, I'll lift it apart again and get the valve tool, pull and clean the valves and guides (which really needs doing but this is a halfway house solution).

    Phil
     
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  16. Lloyd's paint & glass
    Joined: Nov 16, 2019
    Posts: 253

    Lloyd's paint & glass
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    I believe i have the valve spring compressor, if it comes to that I'll stick it in the mail to you. I have no need for it
     
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  17. PhilA
    Joined: Sep 6, 2018
    Posts: 140

    PhilA
    Member

    I'll fling it back together tomorrow if I have time and see how it runs.

    Phil
     
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  18. PhilA
    Joined: Sep 6, 2018
    Posts: 140

    PhilA
    Member

    I really shouldn't sit and read about fuel injection.

    Probably better in keeping, a set of 4 carbs on a nice balanced intake would be nice, to try balance the mixture across all pots a bit better.

    I should really just get it going properly with the original Carter carburetor first. Hotrodding comes later. (More like fuel economy and torque for better highway behavior).

    Phil
     
    Last edited: Dec 2, 2019 at 6:09 PM
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  19. PhilA
    Joined: Sep 6, 2018
    Posts: 140

    PhilA
    Member

    Well, I reassembled everything and started it up. Beautiful smooth for about a minute then back to the same old nonsense.



    A bit smoky burning off the oil. Valves need to come out.

    Phil
     
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  20. Lloyd's paint & glass
    Joined: Nov 16, 2019
    Posts: 253

    Lloyd's paint & glass
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Do you need a valve spring compressor like this? 716u-5oR+WL._SL1500_.jpg
     
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  21. PhilA
    Joined: Sep 6, 2018
    Posts: 140

    PhilA
    Member

    Yeah, that's the type that would work.

    Phil
     
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  22. Lloyd's paint & glass
    Joined: Nov 16, 2019
    Posts: 253

    Lloyd's paint & glass
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    Let me dig it up and I'll stick it in the mail. PM me your address
     
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  23. PhilA
    Joined: Sep 6, 2018
    Posts: 140

    PhilA
    Member

    Thank you.

    I need to be making a little plate on the firewall, with "Thanks to..." on it.

    No pictures tonight but I tightened up the fanbelt and wired the alternator in properly.
    Also found out why the horn wasn't working- connected that up to the back of the ammeter where it's meant to go. Helps if it's connected.

    Started up cold it runs ok. Good sign.

    Phil
     
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  24. PhilA
    Joined: Sep 6, 2018
    Posts: 140

    PhilA
    Member

    I think I need a higher wattage bulb in the warning light circuit.

    20190905_205154.jpg
    I got this nice little red doohickey in a hole that was there courtesy of someone else. It takes a midget flange bulb and I have the wrong one in it right now.

    Am I right in thinking if the engine takes a blip of the gas to get the light to go out (then it stays out) the bulb needs to be increased in wattage to get the alternator field to excite and start charging sooner?

    Phil
     
    Last edited: Dec 2, 2019 at 11:08 PM
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  25. TrailerTrashToo
    Joined: Jun 20, 2018
    Posts: 415

    TrailerTrashToo
    Member

    Getting the alternator to start charging is typically a function of engine RPM, not the wattage on the alternator charge indicator light. A common "feature" of an alternator conversion in an old car. If only takes a small blip of the gas pedal to turn off the light, leave it alone (i.e. not sufficiently broken).
     
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  26. PhilA
    Joined: Sep 6, 2018
    Posts: 140

    PhilA
    Member

    Yeah, it takes revving up to about 1000 rpm, then letting off and it'll charge down to 350-400rpm idle.

    Phil
     
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  27. turdmagnet
    Joined: May 19, 2008
    Posts: 363

    turdmagnet
    Member

    When I did my 12v conversion I picked up an alternator that's used on a tow motor (was told they are designed to operate better at lower rpms). Not sure if that's true but even at an idle I have no charging issues. It's been in service for about 8 years now.


    Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  28. PhilA
    Joined: Sep 6, 2018
    Posts: 140

    PhilA
    Member


    Once it's charging, this one works fine. It's just getting it to start charging.

    Phil
     
  29. Sculptive Design Co.
    Joined: Jul 23, 2018
    Posts: 53

    Sculptive Design Co.
    Member

    I live out in Ponchatoula. Was there a car meet out in Folsom?
     
  30. CBoyd
    Joined: Jan 25, 2019
    Posts: 13

    CBoyd

    I had trouble with sticky valves in my 49 Pontiac also. I put mmo in the oil and the gas and that seemed to help for a while. It started ticking again and a buddy of mine suggested putting a half a pint of diesel fuel in the oil and drive it around town for 30 min. or so. Did that and then drained the oil, put in fresh, and no troubles the last couple of months. Great job on the Hydro!!
     
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