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Technical Metal Glaze

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by TagMan, Mar 2, 2018.

  1. TagMan
    Joined: Dec 12, 2002
    Posts: 6,300

    TagMan
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I've had a bottle of Evercoat Metal glaze and used a little bit of it last Fall. I tightened the cap, put the bottle in a ziploc bag, removed as much air as I could before sealing the bag, and stored it over this past Winter in my basement, which never gets below 55°F.

    When I opened the bottle a few days ago, after letting it sit for a couple of days in the house at 68°F temp, it was dried up - still pliable, but not creamy. I thinned a little bit of it with thinner to get it back to its original consistancy, added the hardener, spread it on a test piece and it appears to dry & sand OK. This shit is expensive, but I don't want to have it fail under the paint, which is un-freakin'-believably expensive, either.

    Has anybody have any experiences in trying successfully to reconstitute this stuff ? I had one do the same thing last year after just a few weeks of sitting all capped up and I can't just keep buying them every few weeks.

    Thanks,
    -Bob
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  2. What did you use for "thinner"? If it was not a polyester resin type product like Honey or Supercharger or even straight resin don't use it as you have changed the chemical make up of the product and it has a good chance of failing. Metal Glaze should have a shelf life of about 18 months from the date of manufacture without having to resort to bagging, thinning, etc. It sounds like your supplier is giving you old product if you are having it go bad that quickly. Check the bottom of the container it will have a 6 digit code on it the first number is the year of manufacture and the next two are the month. It should fall within an 18 month period. So if the code was say 712356 the product would have been manufactured in December of last year and should still be good. If the code was 601356 it would be from January of 2016 and not surprisingly bad. Check your product before you leave your supplier to make sure it is good. The same applies to hardener which has the same code on the crimp of the tube. (can be hard to see rubbing a pencil over it helps)
     
  3. TagMan
    Joined: Dec 12, 2002
    Posts: 6,300

    TagMan
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I checked the bottle of Glaze I bought last year about this time or maybe a bit later - the date code is "106321" - that would mean it was made in June, 2011? I bought it from a local supplier that deals mostly with professional shops. Could it possibly have been 6-years old when I bought it ??

    When I tried to revitalize the old stuff, I used lacquer thinner, so it probably was the wrong stuff to use. Knowing how to decode the date info will be a LOT of help! Thanks for taking the time to respond - I really appreciate it.
    -Bob
     
  4. Yup if that's the code it was made in 2011. I am surprised it was even usable when you got it. Never know what may have happened for them to have had stuff that old but it happens more than it should. With it being that old I wouldn't advise using it even if you had used an appropriate product to bring it back. Just not worth the risk. Best advise is to check when you buy new stuff, hardeners tend to be more likely to be old than product as they often get thrown in a box and just grabbed as needed so some could sit at the bottom of a box for years until they start to run out. Hardeners are also way more subject to degradation than the filler or putties are so it's important to check those as well. Glad I could help. If you have any other questions let me know.

    Sent from my SM-G950W using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     

  5. TagMan
    Joined: Dec 12, 2002
    Posts: 6,300

    TagMan
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    KI3,
    I went back to my paint supplier and showed him my bottle of glaze, with the 2011 date. Since I bought it 6 months ago and didn't have a receipt, I wasn't expecting too much from him. I showed him the bottle & date and he handed me a new bottle (well, about 8-months old) and said, "It happens.". Hard to believe they don't rotate their stock better than that, but at least he replaced it at no charge.

    Thanks very much for responding to this post and telling me about the date code. You saved me $40.00 or so !! I really appreciate your input.
    -Bob
     
    Desoto291Hemi likes this.
  6. rustsniffer
    Joined: Oct 8, 2020
    Posts: 1

    rustsniffer
    Member

    I realize this is a really old thread but wanted to add what I done when I got in a pinch. I had to have a set of finders finished by Monday and realized I’d ran out of metal glaze with nowhere to get any on a weekend. I searched the shop and found an old bottle of evercoat that was cheesed up. Rather than adding anything due to the possibility of having it fail later down the road I instead went to the kitchen and put the bottle in the microwave for a minute. I’d have been up shit creek with the wife of that bottle had exploded but to my surprise it made it useable again long enough to get it on a board with hardener, mixed up and put on the fender with the low spot. It sanded out fine and I got the fenders painted.
     
  7. larry k
    Joined: Feb 23, 2009
    Posts: 548

    larry k
    Member

    It ain’t worth the gamble $ $ $ ! ! !
     
    Bcap55 likes this.
  8. indyjps
    Joined: Feb 21, 2007
    Posts: 5,377

    indyjps
    Member

    I started buying all filler and seam sealer from high volume online dealers to hopefully get fresh stock. Tcp Global is good, there's plenty of others.

    Got burnt on 2 tubes of seam sealer in one weekend buying off the shelf from paint supplier then autoparts store. They both refunded but I ran out of weekend and still had no useable seam sealer, delayed the work, wasted time driving back to both places.
     

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