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Mercury Doors Size

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by ricardo_rocha, Oct 28, 2012.

  1. ricardo_rocha
    Joined: Nov 29, 2008
    Posts: 765

    ricardo_rocha
    Member
    from Brazil

    Fellow Hambers,

    Does anyone can tell me the size of a 1951 Mercury Coupe door? I have a Sedan (moredoors) and Im planning to transform it on a Coupe...Thats why the question... :)
     
  2. 51" right under the "hump" on my 50
     
  3. ricardo_rocha
    Joined: Nov 29, 2008
    Posts: 765

    ricardo_rocha
    Member
    from Brazil


    Sorry, I have english as a second language...Not english enough to understand that... :confused:
     
  4. Moonequipt13
    Joined: Jul 9, 2012
    Posts: 196

    Moonequipt13
    Member

    1295,5 milímetros sob a "corcunda" em um 1950
     

  5. ricardo_rocha
    Joined: Nov 29, 2008
    Posts: 765

    ricardo_rocha
    Member
    from Brazil

    Does anyone know exactly the measures for both (front) doors? Coupe and Sedan????
     
  6. rotorwrench
    Joined: Apr 21, 2006
    Posts: 633

    rotorwrench
    Member

    Ricardo

    I don't have a 2-door coupe so I can't measure for you but I can translate a little better and you can convert to metric.

    50mercfan measured from front to rear on his door just under the body line or "hump" on the side of the door and it came to 51 inches.

    I did the same on my 1951 4-door and I measured along the top line of the trim piece just below the body line (hump) and it measured 40.75-inches from flat outer edge to flat outer edge (just the door outer skin from front to rear without counting the part that extends under the front fender).

    I always figured it would be near 10-inches difference between the 2-door & 4-door.
     
    Last edited: Mar 1, 2013
  7. Ricardo you need to extend the door's 10.25 inches. The front door on a 4 door like this bare metal 50 measures 40.75 inches. Also pictured here is a primered 51 4 door made into a 2 door hard top and now the door measures 51 inches.

    GB, Erickson / Extreme Kustoms
    951 678-3520
     

    Attached Files:

  8. WWinIL
    Joined: Mar 1, 2012
    Posts: 195

    WWinIL
    Member

    Maybe this will help. Or at least just confuse us more. Ricardo probably wants measurement in metric.

    I measured a passenger door from rear of door to front edge along the top of the stainless trim.

    [​IMG][/IMG]

    Total length ( including recess that goes behind fender )

    51 - 13/16" ( inches )

    or

    1318 cm (centimeters)

    or

    1 M (meter) + 318 cm (centimeters)

    My measurement at door skin edge before recess under fender:

    51 - 1/8" (inches)

    or

    1300 cm (centimeters)

    or

    1M (meter) + 300 cm (centimeters)

    I measured in a different place than previous posts. Previous post's measurements converted to metric would be:

    51" (inches) = 1295.4 cm (centimeters)
    at just under body line or hump

    I would also add there are three different tape measures at work here. We can come up with a variance because of that (1/16 to 1/8" ? or 1 to 3 mm?)
     
  9. How about if I give you the door opening size? Right at the bottom.
     
  10. WWinIL
    Joined: Mar 1, 2012
    Posts: 195

    WWinIL
    Member

    DOH !!! common sense is not as common as you'd think... make the plug fit the hole not vice versa.

    bottom of door frame opening, from hinge mount surface to back edge of door opening:

    47.5" (inches)

    or

    1206.5 cm (centimeters)
     
  11. rotorwrench
    Joined: Apr 21, 2006
    Posts: 633

    rotorwrench
    Member

    The most important thing is to measure at the same location for all measurements. These doors are curved pretty well at the front so the longest edge is below the body line a bit. Any cut made would be behind the "Hump" on the body line if you want to save it and it would need to be as near straight vertical as possible to align things up. A person could make the door as long as they wanted to. Unless you use the stock 2-door rear quarters to set the opening length at the stock 2-door dimension. If you use the cut out B pillar as the door jam for the conversion, you can move it where ever you want it. The rear door sections would end up being both the filler piece for the front doors and the rear quarter closure unless you are a really good metal man. It would be a big job for sure. Not impossible but not easy either.
     
  12. rotorwrench Something like this ?

    GB, Erickson / Extreme Kustoms
    951 678-3520
     

    Attached Files:

  13. 37 caddy
    Joined: Mar 4, 2010
    Posts: 374

    37 caddy
    Member
    from PEI Canada

    I would make or buy the doors first,if you are joining the 2 doors together you should be able to custom make the hole to fit them,if buying 2 door doors,fit them and let the post fall where it fits the latch plate.I think one made with an extra door on the back that opened suicide style,like the back doors on a new pickup,would look really neat if it was pulled off right,it would look like one of the saturn cars,a lot of work but would be really neat. Harvey
     
  14. rotorwrench
    Joined: Apr 21, 2006
    Posts: 633

    rotorwrench
    Member

    The hardtop design idea would be the most plausible if extending the doors. If a person tried to extend them and keep the upper window frame channels, that would be a real challenge. They would have to be pieced together like a jigsaw puzzle.
     
  15. Something like this one ?

    GB, Erickson / Extreme Kustoms
    951 678-3520
     

    Attached Files:

  16. ricardo_rocha
    Joined: Nov 29, 2008
    Posts: 765

    ricardo_rocha
    Member
    from Brazil

    Thanks Erickson...always helping me out a big deal...Thanks You Vera much onde more!!!
     
  17. ricardo_rocha
    Joined: Nov 29, 2008
    Posts: 765

    ricardo_rocha
    Member
    from Brazil

    Thank you... That piece of information was quite important...I will post pics later...And You can see how is my Coupe right now!!!!
     

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