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Technical Mechanically Stripped Frame - How to Paint?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by bmcley, Mar 5, 2015.

  1. bmcley
    Joined: Aug 19, 2012
    Posts: 3

    bmcley
    Member

    I mechanically stripped my frame via sanding, wire wheels, and a needle scaler (for the tight spots.) It's pretty damn clean, but not perfect. There are plenty of rust pits I'm unable to get to, and tight spots I can't quite reach. That means there's still a little rust in spots.

    I'm not sure where to go from here...

    POR-15 : Maybe to clean for that. I read it needs rust to stick to.

    EW Rust Converter : Same here, I think it needs rust

    EW Rust Encapsulator : May be good option. Don't know how it preforms on bare metal. Prime and paint over? What type of primer?

    Chassis Saver : Similar to POR-15 I think.

    Self-Etching Primer?

    Some kind of etching product, followed by epoxy paint?

    Maybe even a white vinegar wipe down?

    What are your thoughts and opinions on any of these options, or if you have any other suggestions/products that you've had success with.
    Thanks for your input.
     

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  2. swindill
    Joined: Mar 5, 2015
    Posts: 1

    swindill

    Depends on what finish you want, I've heard por 15 is ok to work with. If it were me I would get it sand blasted and powder coated. Saves a head ache and time messing with it. I had a sub frame done for 100 $ gloss black.
     
  3. Torana68
    Joined: Jan 28, 2008
    Posts: 1,185

    Torana68
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Australia

    If you have a local blaster he shouldn't charge much to finish what you started?, then expoy prime and it can sit as long as need be without rust. If you cant do that look at the rust converters and good primers there are lots about, ask at a local Panel Beaters suppliers.
     
  4. Redid my frame with a 2 part epoxy, satin black, can be seen in my build thread. I was pleased with the results.
     

  5. manyolcars
    Joined: Mar 30, 2001
    Posts: 8,359

    manyolcars

    allow the frame to lightly flash rust and you are ready for POR15
    I think POR suggests that you use metal prep first over the light rust
     
  6. 28dreyer
    Joined: Jan 23, 2008
    Posts: 1,132

    28dreyer
    Member
    from Minnesota

    This may sound extreme but was very viable for me in 2009.

    Found a large industrial plating shop with the facilities to submerge my frame and yellow zinc chromate it. It's what class 8 fasteners are plated with. The prep etch gets at any rust and the finish is great as is or great as a primer if you want to paint. The plating was relatively inexpensive at the time.
     
  7. Torana68
    Joined: Jan 28, 2008
    Posts: 1,185

    Torana68
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Australia

    be aware yellow zinc chromate is VERY dangerous to your health especially dust (sanding etc) its a carcinogen, perhaps you mean the electroplated version?
     
  8. 28dreyer
    Joined: Jan 23, 2008
    Posts: 1,132

    28dreyer
    Member
    from Minnesota

    Yes, plating shop as I mentioned.

    The paint is no longer available I believe.
     
  9. 1great40
    Joined: Jan 1, 2008
    Posts: 455

    1great40
    Member
    from Walpole MA

    POR will only adhere to a rusty, sandblasted or a properly etched surface. You may do well to at least sandblast the rust pitted areas that you have left and then epoxy prime the frame. Epoxy priming effectively seals the surface and prevents further rusting but I wouldn't count on it to hold back existing rust. Be especially wary of using POR 15 0n a wire brushed clean (as opposed to rusty) surface. The wire brushing tends to burnish the metal and POR15 doesn't like to stick to that unless it's been sandblasted or etched with their metal prep product.
     
  10. chopolds
    Joined: Oct 22, 2001
    Posts: 5,805

    chopolds
    Member
    from howell, nj
    1. Kustom Painters

    I do frames all the time with POR-15 (or it's equivalent: Master Series). Either blasted metal, or just clean (no grease, oil or other contamination) with a scrub with Metal Prep...any kind or brand will do. You dont' have to put it over rust. Just be sure to topcoat it with a regular paint, or POR's Chassis paint. UV rays will degrade it and make it chalky. The trick to using regular paint is to shoot it after the second coat of POR, when it is just a bit tacky, almost set up.
    BTW, use the silver POR, it protects better than the regular, die to the alum flakes in it.
    Also, if you take another route, epoxy or etch shouldn't be put over parts with rust. I don't like using it even if there is only rust in the pits of the metal. That's why blasting is the best option. Second is soaking/scrubbing with metal prep until all the dark spots in the pits is gone. Hard to do on a full frame, though!
    A quick wipe with vinegar or metal prep isn't enough to remove the rust, it takes a long soak or aggressive scrub to do it.
     
  11. dirt t
    Joined: Mar 20, 2007
    Posts: 4,664

    dirt t
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Kingman,AZ
    1. HAMB Old Farts' Club

    You did a great job cleaning , looks like many hours of labor. If you put that kind of effort in the rest of your project it will be a knockout. As a side note I had my frame powder coated.
     
  12. indyjps
    Joined: Feb 21, 2007
    Posts: 3,907

    indyjps
    Member

    If I were in you're place, I'd buy a gallon of evaporust, a couple of nylon bristle brushes of various sizes and a toilet brush, and a face shield. Work a couple feet at a time by applying the evaporust and let it sit but not dry, then scrub it, wipe it down with water mixed with baking soda, then wipe it down with laquer thinner, blow it off and let it dry overnight.
    The next day I would tack cloth and apply 2 coats of Valspar semi gloss tractor and implement paint, with hardener. Brush it, spray it, whatever. Be aware the hardener is nasty, wear a proper mask, gloves, cover all exposed skin.
     
  13. bmcley
    Joined: Aug 19, 2012
    Posts: 3

    bmcley
    Member

    Thanks for all the information guys. I realize that sand blasting (or dipping) would be the best way to go. Unfortunately, it's not really an option; At least not one I want to pursue. In the pic, you only see the engine bay because that's as far as I've cleaned. I wanted to do it in three sections. I don't have room in the garage to blow everything apart at once, and send the frame out. And I can't set anything outside because I'm in one of the ritzy bullsh*t neighborhoods where you don't really "own" your property. I'm sure my neighbors would call me in by the end of the afternoon if I had a truck cab sitting in the driveway.

    I have a HF blaster, and I've done a small amount of DIY blasting, in my garage, in a makeshift, plastic sheeting blast-booth. I would relate that experience to what I think Hell will be like. I would very much like to avoid.

    I'm hoping to chemically convert the little bit of rust that is still present, and then paint in the best way possible.
    For those of you that suggested POR, if I can't sand blast, how would you prep the metal?
     
  14. aplayer
    Joined: Dec 2, 2006
    Posts: 148

    aplayer
    Member

    I agree with Chopolds. I used Por15 on my Chevelle chassis a dozen years ago. I mechanically stripped it, like you, and followed all the Por15 directions -- Metal Prep, etc. I used foam brushes to apply and then topcoated with Eastwood chassis paint. It still looks great. The stuff is almost bulletproof. I haven't had the car back apart, but all the chassis bits I can see still look great.
     
  15. How about KBS products? There rustblast is supposed to be good.
     
  16. is this a year round driver? through salt and snow? if not your over thinking it, clean, metal prep, epoxy prime and paint.
    my plow truck i wire brushed and use sem rust shield [rustoleum equivalent] stays good despite the winter abuse.
     
  17. First off get yourself some naval jell and get rid of the rust completely. Then either self etching primer-primer and paint. If it is not a show car or the frame doesn't show or both I would suggest chassis paint but that is just me I suppose.
     
  18. bmcley
    Joined: Aug 19, 2012
    Posts: 3

    bmcley
    Member

    Thanks guys. It's neither a show car, nor a daily driver. It's a '49 Chevy, on an S10 frame (what you see here) that will have an aluminum 5.3 LS, and a 4L60E. It's just to have fun in. It won't ever see any bad weather or salt. Still, I want to do it right the first time. I realize nothing last forever, but I want to do the best job I can. And I agree Porknbeaner, I think Chassis black will be ok as a topcoat.
     

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