Once again, google isn't doing much for me. I can't see too many detail shots in old Rodder's Journals or other books I have. About to run a mechanical temp gauge to the thermostat housing and will have the "wire" running through the firewall and out to the front of the engine. I was going to use those brakeline clips with the rubber half grommet but wanted to check in to see if there's anything that looks cooler than that out there. Thanks!
The capillary tube can pass through a grommet in the fire wall and be carefully bent with gentle radii and shaped to follow the contour of the intake manifold flange or engine block depending on what engine you have. Mine have always been pretty much freestanding with a question mark shape or loop at the end (SBC/BBC).
That's what I did. Split some asphalt loom and slipped it onto the thermostat wire. Ran it thru 2 insulated brake line clips attached to the valve cover bolts and then wrapped black friction tape around it in a couple of spots. Have very little wiring showing in my engine compartment and what is, is asphalt loomed.....so it fits right in.
Thanks for the tips. The engine in question is a Y block with 100 less cubes than Dart’s Hemi. I have a gap between the lifter valley cover and the intake. I wasn’t sure if that would be too warm for the capillary tube. What about the asphalt wire loom- would that “melt” if I put it between the intake and lifter valley cover? Thanks
My loom is rated at 275 degrees. Never had an issue where I have it - the gap beside the intake manifold.
I would just leave the tube bare, support it occasionally with a clamp like you first suggested, if you can. Mine's been snaked along the engine and just going along for the ride like Joe's, for a long time and lots of miles, it's not something I worry about.
Like Squirrel said that's how I have mine been that way for40 years No problem.! Just my 3.5 cents Live Learn & Die a Fool
I've been running a Ford Y in my rod a long time. from 1959 on. At the very bottom of pic,is Temp gage line. Always use mechanical. gages,but don't run any lines close too engine for long runs. I taped left head rear small plug{ it has a smaller then needed,in most left heads for a 6v or 12v temp sender,} so I tape that out to fit Mechanical fitting. All though that is best done with head off,block,I have done it with a vac cleaner working as I drilled an tapd;to minazing bits from getting in,another trick I was told about but have not used is hooking house water hose up to engine/at heater tap on water pump. To let water flush all drilling n taping as your doing. Point being,having a fitting at back of head ,lets the water temp run a very short ways to firewall. The crank vent is also homemade from valleycover to intake. It replaces draft tube.
The Jalopy Journal
