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Mechanical fan..and electric fan??

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by airbrushguy, Jun 4, 2013.

  1. airbrushguy
    Joined: Jul 1, 2005
    Posts: 324

    airbrushguy
    Member
    from NJ

    In an effort to solve my '39 Buick/SBC overheating problem, I was thinking of moving the electric puller fan to the front of the radiator/condenser and putting a regular fan mounted on water-pump pulley on the engine side.
    Would this work or would they counteract each other?
    Any suggestions?
    Thanks
     
  2. Cardot60
    Joined: May 29, 2013
    Posts: 12

    Cardot60
    Member
    from Illinois

    That would work great. Just be sure to do all the nessesary things to switch your electric fan to a pusher fan. Usually this means switching polarity and/or taking off and putting the fan blade on "backwards."
     
  3. GassersGarage
    Joined: Jul 1, 2007
    Posts: 4,729

    GassersGarage
    Member

    It would work but I'd try using s fix blade mechanical fan first. My buddy did that on his '41 Chevy and it solved his cooling problems.
     
  4. stubbsrodandcustom
    Joined: Dec 28, 2010
    Posts: 1,311

    stubbsrodandcustom
    Member
    from Spring tx

    How close to the rad is the mechanical fan. Shroud? If its no shroud and a couple inches away then it's deff not working good at all. Just fyi
     

  5. okiedokie
    Joined: Jul 5, 2005
    Posts: 4,085

    okiedokie
    Member
    from Ok

    Mechanical with shroud best, my experience was that electric on front just hindered air flow.
     
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  6. airbrushguy
    Joined: Jul 1, 2005
    Posts: 324

    airbrushguy
    Member
    from NJ

    Why a fixed blade fan and not a flex-fan ?
    I thought flex-fans move more air. What particular fixed blade fan should I get?
    Thanks
     
  7. drptop70ss
    Joined: May 31, 2010
    Posts: 1,159

    drptop70ss
    Member
    from NY

    Flex fans have a habit of cracking from the flexing and coming apart. Luckily when mine came apart I was driving and not under the hood, would of done me some serious damage. As it was it did serious damage to the car but at least that was fixable. When I use a mechanical fan I use GM factory style clutch fans if there is room for it otherwise a steel fixed blade fan for tight spots.
     
  8. airbrushguy
    Joined: Jul 1, 2005
    Posts: 324

    airbrushguy
    Member
    from NJ

    Does a shroud have to encase all the radiator area or can it be one of those 3-5" SS strip shrouds that just go around the fan?
     
  9. impala631
    Joined: Oct 26, 2012
    Posts: 78

    impala631
    Member
    from INDIANA

    I've used this setup in the past with good results
     
  10. 54 Chevy
    Joined: Sep 4, 2010
    Posts: 358

    54 Chevy
    Member

    Get a Cooling componets electric fan and shroud and remove the rest of the fans. I have not seen a car yet that these would not cool. My car does not go above 180 while driving slow in traffic. <TABLE class=tableizer-table><TBODY><TR><TD> </TD></TR><TR><TD>[​IMG]</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
     
  11. brokenspoke
    Joined: Jul 26, 2005
    Posts: 2,890

    brokenspoke
    Member

    Those are fan guards....doesent help
     
  12. airbrushguy
    Joined: Jul 1, 2005
    Posts: 324

    airbrushguy
    Member
    from NJ

    Where can I get a shroud without buying the fan?
     
  13. Walker radiator makes them but you have to cut the hole.

    The flex fans actually move less air and are prone to come apart in do damage to the radiator,the car or worse yet to a person.

    A quality none flexible steel blade will cure most overheating problems.

    Another rule of thumb,,,never use a water pump pulley and a crank pulley that are the same size,,,the water will move too slow at low speed,,try to use a smaller WP pulley to increase the speed ofcirculation. HRP
     
    Last edited: Jun 7, 2013
  14. 57JoeFoMoPar
    Joined: Sep 14, 2004
    Posts: 4,745

    57JoeFoMoPar
    Member

    It's a great idea to run both a mechanical puller as well as an electric pusher. This is the same setup I've had on my car for years and it has worked wonderfully. I've run a 7 blade mechanical fan off of a 500 Cadillac with a shroud, as well as a Derale 7 blade 3300 cfm pusher, that I can turn on with a dash toggle.

    On hot days while sitting in traffic the temp will start to creep up, so I pull on the electric fan, which supplements the lack of low speed air flow and cools it back down.
     
  15. Gizzy
    Joined: Jan 20, 2008
    Posts: 686

    Gizzy
    Member
    from N.W,Ohio

    I put a clutch fan w/shroud on my 283.Made a world of difference.
     
  16. carlos
    Joined: May 2, 2005
    Posts: 1,382

    carlos
    Member
    from ohio

  17. crazy_tonguezz
    Joined: May 16, 2013
    Posts: 376

    crazy_tonguezz
    Member
    from glendale

    I was curious of the same i.wanted to run a mechanical and electric

    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
  18. 331 ABOD
    Joined: Jan 17, 2012
    Posts: 18

    331 ABOD
    Member
    from minnesota

    I have interest in electric puller fan on my roadster as mechanical fan will hit top radiator hose.........what other parts.......wiring, switches, relays etc. are needed and estimate at total cost?? thanks
     
  19. JWL115C
    Joined: Jan 28, 2010
    Posts: 169

    JWL115C
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    May be mistaken, but will not a smaller WP pulley will turn faster not slower?

    (o{}o)
     
  20. Correct, I modified the original post to clarify,,,brain fade this morning.:rolleyes: HRP
     
  21. Weasel
    Joined: Dec 30, 2007
    Posts: 6,694

    Weasel
    Member

    See my thread 'Flex fan carnage' and you'll soon have the flex fan notion purged from your thoughts.

    Cooling Components Inc. electric fan/shroud combos absolutely rule....
     
  22. mustang6147
    Joined: Feb 26, 2010
    Posts: 1,847

    mustang6147
    Member
    from Kent, Ohio

    I want to mention, Is your fan centered in the core of the radiator ? If you have a big offset, and electric pusher in the area the mechanical fan isn't covering will be a bandaid type fix.... A good shroud and a mechanical fan and stated previously would be the right fix in my opinion....and be the least expensive route as well....
     
  23. airbrushguy
    Joined: Jul 1, 2005
    Posts: 324

    airbrushguy
    Member
    from NJ

    Here's an interesting point I didn't know....Cooling Components asked about my system and when he heard that to avoid contact with my belts, I had used one of those chrome corrugated hoses, he said that is very likely one of my biggest problems because they are too restrictive. Makes sense, so my first step before buying a fan and shroud from CC is to either find a formed hose with that shape or do what they do with flatheads and have two rubber ends with aluminum tubing in between.
    Walker Radiator no longer sells electric fans or shrouds, they redirected me to CC.
     
  24. mustang6147
    Joined: Feb 26, 2010
    Posts: 1,847

    mustang6147
    Member
    from Kent, Ohio

    Seems not right.... I do agree Chrome holds heat.... That's a give, but I am using a corrugated rubber hose. No issue... If anything corrugated is not prone to collapsing....


    When your driving down the freeway, a flex fan flattens out, less engine drag, but it now acts like a wind brake since the surface area is now flat...

    I was told once, by a radiator place (Name not important) that I needed to change my 40 over to a cross flow radiator. Down flows went out in the 50's. They where over heating prone he said, then offered me a set up for $1000.00

    I let him tell his shpeel.... then he asked did I have any questions? I said ya.... My Super Duty, special ordered with Tow and plow package, I bought to tow may race car, 12000 lbs trailer to the track came with a down flow radiator.... Is Ford wrong? its an 06 ? Silence, and then he asked if I wanted to order, I said no and hung up...
     
  25. Dreddybear
    Joined: Mar 31, 2007
    Posts: 5,980

    Dreddybear
    Member

    I have 2 fans on my pickup. It's necessary. It's a crutch to make up for the radiator not being 4 rows.
     
  26. airbrushguy
    Joined: Jul 1, 2005
    Posts: 324

    airbrushguy
    Member
    from NJ

    So, if I can't buy his corrugated hose story, is he off about my electric fan needing to be replaced by his with a shroud....???
     
  27. historynw
    Joined: May 26, 2008
    Posts: 806

    historynw
    Member

    I run a 3300rpm GM fan as a pusher on my 47 Chevy. I was having a problem getting enough air in to cool the older SBC when sitting in traffic or in a parade. I have a flex fan on the engine and for the most part the car runs cool we haven't taken it out a on a long trip yet. The guy at the rod shop thinks if I put on a shroud it would mak the entire operation more efficient in controlling heat issues. The new engine throws some heat with the headers and 195 thermostat. So were looking at a full radiator mount shroud that we can cut the hole in to fit our fan.
     
  28. airbrushguy
    Joined: Jul 1, 2005
    Posts: 324

    airbrushguy
    Member
    from NJ

    You're talkin about putting the shroud on the mechanical flex fan?
     
  29. theHIGHLANDER
    Joined: Jun 3, 2005
    Posts: 8,090

    theHIGHLANDER
    Member

    I had an OT car that wouldn't remain cool. It had 2 electric fans, a monster radiator, and every other "fix" you could imagine. This was a, 8.5:1 BBC with typical bolt-ons. I'd had enough after trying to logically sort through everything like timing, fan control, thermostat choice, ect. My fix? Went back to a clutch fan and shroud like the OEM. Done...FOREVER. Then it went to the gym and got 14:1, a Dominator, big roller cam, and everything else that says it should boil over in normal use. In my quest to suck all the HP from the crank I could, I used one of those little Moroso electric motors on a plastic flex fan attached to the OEM water pump. Imagine my surprise when I had a hard time getting my temp HIGH ENOUGH to stage the car. I got to where I'd drive up to the lanes and even do my burnout with the fan switch OFF, then switch it on before I staged to get it to 180-190 before a run. By the end of the run it was back down to 170 after 10sec of WFO. Go figure, huh? It may have also had an effect on cooling that everything was semi-gloss black. Most tell me I'm full of shit on that element. Sometimes it's best to use what engineers figured out a long time ago. Just sayin...
     

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