Thanks for the follow up. Mine is stalling when hot too, so when you get that figured out let us know. And yes this thread does has a lot of good info in it!
I hesitate to step in BUT am a professional mech and a hotrodder. Vaourlock is a big problem now since the fuel no longer carries a preventative for it. Why ? Because all cars made in the last 20 years or so use EFI and have relatively high pressure in the fuel system. The boiling point of any liquid is raised when its pressure is increased. (And lowered when it is being pulled or under vaccum. ) Since many of use use the old stock pump which pul fuel from the tank (pulling= vacuum) the new gasoline of today boils merrily and our old engines are not happy running on bubbles and foam. Insulating the gas line or shielding it will help. I also shield the fuel pump if it is engine mounted or install a electric.(AT THE TANK!!!!!!!!!) Usually if vapour lock is the problem all is wonderful until you stop in traffic or stop at a store for something. When you come out the engine will hardly start and if you do get it running will barely stay running unless you keep your foot in it. Fuels with 10% Ethonal make the problem worse. I got a real first hand education with my 63 Dodge Max Wedge. It was as a result of that I developed the fuel pump heat shield idea. Since then (2000) I have helped several thru the same mess. Successfully I might add with no unsuccess. Once I realized what was the reason it was easy to fix. Don
Don't forget to install a thicker carb heat soak gasket under your new carb. Your carb could be boiling fuel inside when hot.
I'm hung on the part of your original post where you said it would only run with your foot buried in the throttle. When you step on the throttle, YOU are only letting more AIR into the engine (except for the momentary action of the accel. pump). The carb automatically (in theory) adds the "correct" amount of fuel for the AIR you let in. If the thing will only run at WFO, it sounds like a rich condition, not leanout or vapor lock. Now, if you had to constantly pump the throttle to keep it running, that is a different story. I had a Carter AVS (same basic carb as yours) on a 68 Barracuda that let me down at 120mph on a banzai road trip years ago. It fell on its face, and would only run at WFO throttle. Turns out the float seats had vibrated loose in the top of the carb, and the needles wouldn't fully shut off the fuel flow. Luckily we could tell by the black smoke it was dead rich and were able to fix it on the road. Debris in the seats will cause the same sort of problem. If it gets bad enough, you should see fuel coming up out of the rectangular openings next to the air horn.
x2 Gas tank dirty any rust get new or clean it out. HEI dist are very good if you have the room to fire wall. Could even put new gas line steel if rubber.
Tank is spotless... no rust, no dirt. I am running an aluminum tank, so if I have rust in it, I have a serious problem A good tune time and tune, will help and yes, vapor lock could very well be an issue worth looking into. All great advice.
regarding the vapor lock issue..... I want to get some opinions. Would DEI wrap work to cool the fuel pump enough (they sell it for starters, but I've seen it used on fuel pumps and other accessories too) and DEI Cool Wrap on the fuel line running close to the motor. OR should I just ditch the mechanical pump and run an electric pump and reroute the fuel line away from the motor entirely. Looking for some opinions on the better approach or if anyone has experience with the first option. I can't run a fuel pump in my tank, so I would have to run a frame mounted pump.
A frame mounted pump is fine but it must beclose to the tank that is all. I designed a shield for the BB mopars. There used to be a copyable pattern and instructions on the 62 to 65 moparornocar website. Since Mopar and Chev use the same fuel pump bolt patten it will work there as well. Ditching the mech pump will eliminate the problem for sure but the shield is easy to make and install and works well. If you are like me I didnt want to listen to the howl of an electric in my street cruiser. Bad enuf in my race car! Anyway I think you are now on the path to fixing it. Pump or shield will do. It was hard for me to think the pump just being close the the block could pick up enuf heat to cause a problem then I put my hand on it and changed my mind. What was for me back then the big stumbling block was I knew these cars had tooled around in the 60s with relatively no problems but then I thought it through and realized fuel was now different and why. When I made the first shield I guess I really didnt expect it to work if I am truthful. Seemed too simple. When it did I wasnt convinced and thought it was a fluke. However my pal has a 64 Dodge with a 440 and it was giving him fits as well. Especially after sitting hot for a few minutes. It would barely run unless he was right into it. So I offered to make and install one for him. Took about 30 minutes . Twas almost 12 years go and he told me it has never acted up since . Niether has mine so I started making them for others. Then I decided just to share the idea because there must be many fighting with it. I am retired ad dilusions of wealth no longer seem important so I decided to share it. Gary H gladly posted the pattern and all on that Mopar website. It worked for me and many others. It was pretty frustrating though before I sorted it out. Don
edelbrock's run if you understand them most don't they have lot's of adjustment. make sure your fuel system isn't screwed up some where. sounds like pickup in tank is not right if you lost it going up hill.
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