2 questions: 1. Does anyone have any advice on rebuilding the stock dizzy? My truck runs great and idles fine, but when I start to drive it it starts to run weird at a higher RPM. Im assuming the movement in the shafts is making it run out of adjustment. Im about to rebuild it, but im unsure on where the bushings go. Also, do I NEED the dizzy puller MAC's sells for $40 or can i get by without it?? 2. Have any of you guys ran the rear juice backing plates upside down? Im having issues with my brakes. I cant seem to get any "power" to them. Ive put a suction canister on the rear and pulled the juice through, but I still have basically NO brakes. Kinda frustrating. Ive adjusted the shoes out and made sure they are good to go, now the pedal just goes down with little resistance and has no power to the brakes. Its getting frustrating...
I removed my stuck dizzy with lots of penetrating oil and 2 small prybars being very careful not to apply so much pressure to break the casting. Apply pressure to one side then the other, rocking motion. Try this site for other info. http://idisk.mac.com/forever4/Public/index.htm It is nearly impossible to bleed the cylinders on a upside down backing plate. Ask me how I know. There is a very good thread in HAMB on backing plate modification a search will find it. Hope this helps, Good Luck
You don't NEED the distributor puller unless your distributor is rusted into the head. They are supposed to be just set in there with a set screw, but sometimes if they haven't been removed in 20-50 years, (or in my case, driving it in a heavy rain storm and then putting the car away for 2 years) you're going to find that they are stuck!
#2 I have run the upside down backing plates on my roadster. Have been working great for over 4 yrs. You first need to bleed the brakes the conventional way. For the rear, now you need to get the air out of the rear brake cyls. Being upside down the bleeder is at the bottom and the brake line fitting is at the top. I used a turkey baseter full of brake fluid. Attached a small piece of hose to connect it to the brake cyl bleeder fitting. Make sure you purge the air out of the baster like you were giving a shot to someone. Now put pressure on the syringe, and crack the (brake line) fitting going in to the brake cyl a little to push the air pocket out until fluid comes though and out . Now you have all the air out of the rear brake cyl. Go to each side.
finally back in the world of bangers. scored a C motor a while back, and have not got around to it. Just moved into a new house, with 1,000 sq foot shop down stairs. room and freedom!! so, i spent some money and bought a mallory distributor from Chris. need to find a dual intake/ carbs and get a cam ground (will call Mr. Elgin). Got a line on a 26/27 roadster body, so...we see where we go. anyone have a spare '39 box? i am thinking late 40's/50's time machine with a belly button nose (doosh shell). going to start tearing into the motor and see what i have got. looks like i make the big step from T's to A's.
FB, Nah, stick with the T's and ship that worthless C crank down here to GA Sounds like you've got a great stash going- can't wait to see what comes of it!!!
I think ill stay with the upside down backing plate and use the turkey baster idea. Thanks for all the great ideas fellas!
srosa, just make sure you test fit your hose and everything. Get set up. It makes a little mess ,but works. You are just back flowing a little fluid to get the air pocket out that settles in the top portion of the brake cyl when they are mounted that way. BTW: It's not really the bulb type baster, but the one that looks like a BIG hypodermic syringe.
I was playing with my buddy A engine last night and I found this. I would think this would make my rear main leak real bad. I have some plugs that go in the hole to seal it off but some one machined the crap out of the rear main. I was thinking of welding the stock plug over the hole and the put a tack weld on the tube so it won't fall out.
Thanks for the advice. I think Ill use my vaccum setup a few times on each corner, then do the turkey baster idea. Thanks again.
No, probably not. The oil that leaks out around the threaded area will still run into the pan. What will cause the rear main to leak, is if the horizontal hole (which you can see behind the pipe thread) is clogged with sludge, or babbit. Many tines when a rear main cap is rebabbited, some gets into the hole unnoticed. The cure is to knock out the little plug (missing on your cap because where it fit was machined away) and run a drill down the hole to clean it out. This is a very common problem, but if the drain hole is open, and the bearing clearance is reasonable, there will be no leak. There is NO pressure feeding the mains on an A, and very little on a B. Once I remove the plug and clean the hole, I don't bother trying to replug the hole- it doesn't seem to matter. Herb Kephart
Are you kidding? That thing is cool and I bet they had a blast building it. A brass era T built by blacksmiths with very few before them having done it, they had to be the kings of their little berg......or maybe the laughing stocks.
You are right, they probably had fun building it, but what I meant is it is kinda freakish looking. But then again beauty is in the eye of the beholder.........
The boat tail is a little... excessive. If they had moved it forward and combined it with the cowl, and then put the seating inside, we might have something. Prior to about 1930, I’ll bet the blacksmith was about the closest thing to a “fab shop” most towns had. -Dave
Hey guys, There are pics of "speedsters" on nwvs that look about the same... good taste and skills/bad taste and skills are timeless You'd be amazed (in a good way) at some of the things to come out of the blacksmith shops in the 20's amd 30's!
I am amazed on some of the things that come out of a good blacksmith shop today with no power tools. My buddy turns out some real cool stuff out of a little shack in his back yard
ooo..spent some money...but need more parts...why always need more parts? anyone have a pair of frog mouth carb tops they would like to part with (need to fit 94's) and a '39 box
Hey- I really like the headlight aiming- probably just the thing for spotting treed coons! Also it looks like the rear wheel has a tad of negative camber! The dog looks happy though-- Herb Kephart
That is a TT Ford truck chassis... note the long wheelbase and the frame which is deeper and tapered, the car frames were straight not tapered. It looks like the local bus with a high class gas tank seat.
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