Hot Rods May Bang-Er thread

sweet look-in ride corn boy... have fun with the carbs are you running the stock cam?

 

Looks sooooooo bitchen! Glad she went to a good home...and I want a ride

 

It was a Model A hoarder. 35ish cars and tons of parts. I showed up way late as I didn
t want to be tempted with another project. Bought some odds and ends including the B. I don't really need it...anyone out there that does

 

Chris, I NEED a B motor. PM me if you're serious.

 

That looks swell, Corn Boy. A very similar mix of parts to what I'm eventually gonna have. Looks like a T frame with A axles? Are those 19-inch wheels?

I notice a lack of a suicide perch. Does this mean that fenders may eventually be in the works?

-Dave

 

Exactly what I was pondering Dave. I'd just reached the point of deciding that my fendered roadster was going to be a T body on an A chassis, and not A running gear on a T chassis - and now....

 

Personally, I find it depends on the look one wants for the car. To me, when one has a Model T body, the original frame says ‘30s-early ‘40s, whereas a Model A frame says post-WWII, and a Deuce frame says 1960s. This doesn’t count Bucket Ts, of course. I’ve yet to see one of those equipped with a banger anyway.

-Dave

 

Corn Boy, that looks awesome! Have fun.

 

Thanks for the compliments fellas, means alot!
I'm pretty sure the cam has a touring grind.
19 inchers.
I don't plan on running fenders. (hadn't really thought about 'em, now???)
Used a repop A front crossmember up front on modified (Z'd) T rails, which screwd me on using a stock T radiator. I'll never do that again.

cheers,

 

I love the look of 19'' A wheels with no fenders. Looks great.

 

Need help with this garage sale find: Appears to be a Model A/B tach drive. Does anyone recognize the manufacture of the drive. ?It's brass. Does fit in A/B stock dist mounting. Cannot recognize the drive for the dist or mag on top.

 

Awesome find . Don't know anything about it though.

 

Hi Fro,
I don't want to alarm you but did you use the dimensions stated in the January 2006 S0SS magazine? Or did you use the corrected dimensions?
In the Jan. issue it stated that you had to cut the inside of the flywheel to 5.735R but this is to much!!! You can only machine it to 5.3125R as stated in the note he put in the following magazine!!!! Here are pics of the mag and the note (I don't have a scanner so I took pictures of them).
I hope you cut it to the correct dimensions. I used the correct dimensions exept I did not machine it to use a V8 clutch, I still use the stock one.

Good luck,

Eddy

 

Here is a link to a nice video of a Dodge banger tearing them up on the salt. And links from that to a bunch more. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1JvV-BYNgt8

 

Got another banger brethren to add to all of us yesterday afternoon. I will let him tell the story. Paging Trad27 paging Trad27...............-Weeks

 

I'd sure bring like to bring my RPU motor fund to Bell Auto Parts in 1949! I'm trying to figure out my new scanner. Later TK

 

Hey all, thought I would do a little intro here seeing as I got my first banger today. I traded my T bucket for this pickup. It is mostly stock just A motor with diamond head with juice brakes in the rear only, and some goofy Z someone did in the rear. It is a driver I just have to get the water pump on and I am going to go through the brakes and the rear Z before putting any miles on it. I am on the fience about keeping the juice and putting backing plates on the front or a local model A restorer and weeks here on the HAMB said to just convert it back to mechanical. Who here still have mech. brakes? How do they stop? thanks

 

Some late twenties Nashes used a hybrid brake system.

-Dave

 

...

 

1922 Ames bodied Ford Speedster, with a very nice set of wire wheels.

 

Nice looking truck.

I am using 1946/48 brakes on my car with a 1969 Chev dual master cylinder. Works great.

If you decide to revert to the original mechanical brakes I would strongly reccomend, Flathead Teds Brake floater conversion. They work nearly as well as the hydraulics.

 

Dam $40 bucks for a cyclone head! I just saw one at a swap meet for $495! I guess prices have gone up over the years haha

 

Robert Roofs solution to broken crankshafts in Ford racing cars. He inserted two bulk heads into the crankcase after machining an area to hold them. These became the base of bearing's 2 & 4 on a custom made five main crankshaft.

You can also see the plumbing added for pressure oiling, the cut down flywheel and the transmission with reverse drum removed.

 

Will we see your U-Tube this summer, Rich?

 

Yes sir, I got the update but thanks for the thought.

 

I'm glad you had the correct dimensions!!!! Have fun with banger!!!

Eddy

 

TRAD 27, nice looking truck. I still have the mech. brakes. Keep them adjusted and they work fine. Good luck with your new ride.

 

I'm with Timberbeast, on the mater of mechanical brakes and Flat Head Ted's floaters.

My '30 Tudor Ford still has mechanical's and I see no reason to change.

Using '32 brakes on the front spindles helps, as they are one inch larger in diameter. as does changing the stock steel drums to the aftermarket cast iron ones. The '32's were cast iron stock.

I have '32 fronts, with floaters, and stock A rear brakes- never saw a reason to tear into the rears to put the floaters on the rear.

Herb Kephart

 

Hey Herb... have you ever posted pics of your 32 bakes on a model A. If not could you
thanks Bill