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Technical ***May 2023 May Showers Bring Bangers***

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Jiminy, May 1, 2023.

  1. wheeltramp brian
    Joined: Jun 11, 2010
    Posts: 2,477

    wheeltramp brian
    Member

    Wow it's not often that I seen a banger motor in a 34, very nice car
     
    Stovebolt likes this.
  2. V4F
    Joined: Aug 8, 2008
    Posts: 4,382

    V4F
    Member
    from middle ca.


    i think it is cool !!!
     
    Outback, 4BangerDean and Fabber McGee like this.
  3. trikejunkie
    Joined: Dec 2, 2011
    Posts: 220

    trikejunkie
    Member
    from Scotland

    It`s alive also - just a raw video of my 4 Banger up and running, first run with coolant -please be kind as I am new to this stuff !
     
    Koz, Flatdash, Hitchhiker and 4 others like this.
  4. callcoy
    Joined: Aug 31, 2008
    Posts: 187

    callcoy
    Member

    I suspect I have the same problem with my torque wrench on one engine with a almost thee year old Best 503 gasket with 6 blown areas. Will try to find a calibration service quickly!
     
    Old Dawg likes this.
  5. Outback
    Joined: Mar 4, 2005
    Posts: 2,331

    Outback
    Member
    from NE Vic

    I had trouble when I didn't re-torque after 250 miles
     
  6. Fabber McGee
    Joined: Nov 22, 2013
    Posts: 1,279

    Fabber McGee
    Member

    I think most tool trucks can do it for you.
     
    Jet96 likes this.
  7. drtrcrV-8
    Joined: Jan 6, 2013
    Posts: 1,705

    drtrcrV-8
    Member

    I seem to remember a thread a couple of years ago about how to calibrate your torque wrench your self at home with a vise & a fish scale (to measure how many lbs ??), but I don't remember where it was from or how long ago.?? The thing that impressed me was that you could easily check/adjust even the "El Cheapo" swap meet or HF wrenches to be reasonably accurate & repeatable within +/-2% !!
     
    Old Dawg likes this.
  8. The F.A.S.T. Time Trials will take place as planned June 24th at the historic Santa Margarita Ranch, 15 miles North of San Luis Obispo, CA. This 14,000+ ranch is just off the 101 Highway. The 1/10 mile course is laid out on the ranch runway. It's electronic timing goes out several decimal points. Best time has been set just lower than 8 seconds. If you don't have a car that fits any of the F.A.S.T. Classes; you can run for time only as long as it's pre-1935. This event is your choice in the West if you don't want to tow all the way back to Nebraska; and be dogged by weather (including tornados) all along the way! (I've been there; do that when towing to Indianapolis in June)
    ranch2 (2017_06_30 03_13_08 UTC).jpg FASTSM-8 (2017_06_30 15_13_08 UTC).jpg
     
  9. railcarmover
    Joined: Apr 30, 2017
    Posts: 777

    railcarmover

    Had all of mine done before I retired, the shop did them for free. One was a 60’s snap on 0 to 50 lb dial type..cost them 400 bucks to rebuild that one.. it’s good for small work.
     
    Old Dawg likes this.
  10. 4BangerDean
    Joined: Aug 10, 2013
    Posts: 226

    4BangerDean
    Member

    IMG_3156.jpeg IMG_3158.jpeg IMG_3159.jpeg IMG_3160.jpeg This is what was inside the engine. The crank looks good but it was grooved in the center somewhere along the way. Anything you guys can tell me?
    I do know I should keep the main caps, oil pump and shield. Anything else?
    Thanks in advance.
     
    Last edited: May 14, 2023
  11. Dan from Oakland
    Joined: Jan 16, 2009
    Posts: 164

    Dan from Oakland
    Member

    A little strange that the crank is drilled and that the rods appear to have the normal splash oil holes still intact. Looks like a good start though!!
     
  12. As Dan says, interesting, a drilled and apparently keyed crankshaft.
    Might have had a balancer on it, sheared the stk key (no idea) and then cut another keyway.

    Show us more of the block

    J
     
  13. 4BangerDean
    Joined: Aug 10, 2013
    Posts: 226

    4BangerDean
    Member

    It seemed to me that the crank was drilled for no reason, because there seems to be no oil delivery mods. I don’t know if it is beneficial for babbitt bearing mains. The gear on the crank is keyed.
    There are pictures of the block that I posted earlier this month on this thread.
    I’ll put up a picture of the pulley that was on the crank.
    Excuse my ignorance but I’m learning as I go with these bangers. I’m all in at this point. IMG_3011.jpeg
     
    Last edited: May 15, 2023
  14. Outback
    Joined: Mar 4, 2005
    Posts: 2,331

    Outback
    Member
    from NE Vic

    Maybe the crank was drilled for another engine?
    Then later fitted to this one..?
     
    4BangerDean likes this.
  15. Dean
    Not to worry, we all start somewhere
    Jim Brierley has a book out that is a pretty good source of information
    It is not a restoration guide instead it is a practical guide to run these with some modernized thinking

    it probably didn’t hurt to run the drilled crank on the Babbitt without blocking the rod dippers or pressurizing the system in the block

    you have a decent starting point, just determine what you expect from the motor buildup from there

    J
     
    4BangerDean likes this.
  16. The front of that crank pulley looks like it has a similar spline as the Universal joint behind the stock transmission. Could it be that some redneck wanted to make a poor-boys dual engine hot rod?
     
    4BangerDean likes this.
  17. Fabber McGee
    Joined: Nov 22, 2013
    Posts: 1,279

    Fabber McGee
    Member

    More likely it was an industrial front pulley for running a power take off of some sort. Just a guess.
     
    Outback and 4BangerDean like this.
  18. Fabber McGee
    Joined: Nov 22, 2013
    Posts: 1,279

    Fabber McGee
    Member

    My dad put an engine in his 29 that he bought from a ski lodge that came off a rope tow when they switched it to electric. These engines powered everything.
     
    4BangerDean likes this.
  19. brjnelson
    Joined: Oct 13, 2002
    Posts: 604

    brjnelson
    Member

    I thing that was a farm engine from a combine, windrower or stationary engine.
    I would bet it is a diamond block too.
    That is not a bad thing.
     
    Outback and 4BangerDean like this.
  20. 4BangerDean
    Joined: Aug 10, 2013
    Posts: 226

    4BangerDean
    Member

    Interesting observation.
     
  21. 4bangerbob
    Joined: Jun 29, 2013
    Posts: 131

    4bangerbob
    Member
    from AB, Canada

    I sent you a PM.
     
    4BangerDean likes this.
  22. 4BangerDean
    Joined: Aug 10, 2013
    Posts: 226

    4BangerDean
    Member

    Thank You!
    I’m just getting my ducks in a row right now. The block from the engine I just pulled apart is going to be dropped off at the machine shop for pressure testing when I pickup my flywheel/pressure plate from balancing. I still have to pull the existing engine out of my truck and install my “good” engine in it’s place. I will then pull that engine apart as well. I’ll then have a better idea of what direction I will go in. I have a lot to learn but Model B engines is where I’m staying. I have the largest collection of Model B engines, parts, etc in the neighborhood.
     
    Last edited: May 16, 2023
  23. 4BangerDean
    Joined: Aug 10, 2013
    Posts: 226

    4BangerDean
    Member

    It is a Diamond block. I measured one of the pistons but I don’t know if it’s standard or oversized. It also is a Ford piston as well as the rods. Should I keep the rods and caps? I assume the valves, guides, springs and lifters are junk.
     
  24. fur biscuit
    Joined: Jul 22, 2005
    Posts: 7,823

    fur biscuit
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Trailer is inbound!
     

    Attached Files:

  25. Derek Mitchell
    Joined: Nov 22, 2004
    Posts: 1,817

    Derek Mitchell
    Member

    Does anyone know who makes new/ stronger main caps for A blocks, or where to get them?
     
  26. 5280A2
    Joined: Sep 8, 2014
    Posts: 180

    5280A2

    Dan McEachern at [email protected]

    Dan makes other high performance parts for A,B and T fords, especially high-quality timing gears. He also participates in this forum. He sells billet steel main caps that are what you are looking for.
     
    Derek Mitchell likes this.
  27. This pile should last a while
    Billet blanks 1.750 od with 5 bearings

    IMG_2149.jpeg
     
  28. Stan Back
    Joined: Mar 9, 2007
    Posts: 2,152

    Stan Back
    Member
    from California

    You've been busy -- night and day.
     
  29. Kevin Pharis
    Joined: Aug 22, 2020
    Posts: 508

    Kevin Pharis

    Lookin good John! Would you mind sharing what kind of steel…? I have been considering making a few T cams and was told that thru hardened S2 is the bees knees…
     
    Outback likes this.
  30. Thanks Kevin, I have too many irons in the forge...
    These blanks are 8620 stl, I have made S7 blanks also, in fact one of those is one.
    IMHO, the toolsteel cams are not worth the trouble. The guys I do some work for ran some in the Top Fuel cars and broke a couple. While the lobes might survive at a harder surface face, I would think the torsion and flex of "T" cam would break easier, being as to how long and spindly and small in diameter it is. Of course it will also depend on how much spring tension there is on the valves, lobe ramp profile acceleration and of course how fast you try to twist it.

    I have been using the 8620 cams and not had any issues, just make sure to get the penetration depth on the carburizing heat treatment to around .090 on the lobe and bearings.

    Keep us in the loop on progress, John
     

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