The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Jiminy, May 1, 2021.
possibly putting the picture up may help you LOL -i`m old and its late here
Have you looked at a Woods or Lovejoy 'Jaw' type coupling? Should do the trick I'd think
There is no significant torque being transmitted to drive the magneto. The 1.5 million inch pounds shown above is impressive... but probably a tad bit more than required...?
The early Matco mag drives for the T’s used a short length of 1” ID rubber hose and clamp to provide an infinitely adjustable drive coupling. I’ll see if I can dig up a pic...
What's the story on this car? Looks interesting.
It appears to be made out of wood....maybe a cord
awesome car !!
Is roughly 200 a decent price for one of these?
I checked out Woods and have previously looked at Lovejoy couplers. McMaster Carr has the lovejoy ones for cheap, but they wouldnt allow for a change in timing right?
Seems those are a bit overkill for my application! Just looking for something simple
Well, I'll admit that there is a lot that I don't know about your application set up or mag you intend to run.
I would think that the final timing would be set by rotating the mag in relation to the shaft, not the driven shaft in relation to the drive. If I visualize it correctly, you should be able to rotate the coupling 90 degrees for static timing if it is a two ear, 60 degrees if it is a 3 ear....
The other variable is if you have a flat on the shaft(s) or keyway placed in relation to the drive....and then what terminal you pick for plug wire number one on the mag....
Seems like there is a lot of flexibility with this style of coupling, like not keying or placing a flat on a shaft and rotating the coupling half for placement prior to tightening the set screws....I would think this is all true to an extent, even for the one you depicted
I thought it might be , but if you go on to their site they may have other styles - we used a "spider coupling" which had three pawls on each side and a 6 sided rubber insert .I will try and find out the name of them .
ultimately you will want something with a non-keyed and clamped assembly.
you will need to have ability to adjust timing down to 1 degree accuracy.
since the mag typically runs at crank speed (on side drives) that is probably adequate.
backlash could start issues with multi piece couplers such as lovejoy and other designs, you might look into machined servo type couplers. no backlash and machined with clamping options.
I'll be honest, I'm new to magnetos. I believe the FM J mags were originally 2 tooth, but it seems that's been removed. Here's what I'm working with.
Found some servo type couplers, going to do some research on them!
the mags of this style I have worked with are crankshaft speed. Usually there is a window or indicator for #1 firing, if crank speed type, it will take two revolutions of the shaft to make #1 come up again.
now, on to the gear drive, if the gear driving the mag is small, same as crankshaft gear, you are running crankshaft speed. If the gear is the same as the cam gear, it is cam speed.
trust me, there have been a many different versions of this over the last 90 years.
wait until you see the governors and oil pumps that have been made, not to mention water pumps too.
BTW, the mag looks like it may had an impulse on it, no worries.
That’s a typical “Bosch” type mag. Many brands made interchangeable units for many applications, but were all based on standard dimensions. There were even conventional distributor units that were driven off the same base.
Here is a pic of my ‘ol 27 roadster engine with the Matco mag drive. And yes, I know you can’t see sh*t in this pic. You can just barely see the mag between the oil breather and the fan hub. Drive coupling was 1” radiator hose as stated before
And here’s a couple standard mag mount dizzy drives. One standard ignition
And one for twin spark
I’ll go ahead and check the drive gear and see which size it is! I get it Friday in the mail!
What would previously having the impulse on it affect it in this application?
Sorry for my nativity, I’m very new to mags.
Thanks for those photos! Love what you’re doing with the Winfield carbs! Hope we get some updates soon!!
No need to apologize, we were all there at one time, some of us forget and have to start over...
You will not need an impulse, it was a device for aircraft that helped start the engine. It is a speed sensitive retard and spring ahead for hand cranking the engine.
Since you will not have a mechanical advance, more than likely you will set the timing to run, generally 28-30 degrees.
This will make starting a little tricky. A tip from a good friend was to leave mag in off position, hit the starter and once rotating, flip the mag to run. Also, if you are not familiar with a "P" lead on the mag, you ground it to stop.
Retson - Restoration Supply in Escondido sells an adjustable mag coupler that allows adjustments without disassembling anything, but it's not cheap.
I'm looking for a Mallory model J or K 4 cylinder
cap and rotor for a circa 1933 Mallory magneto replacement.
Good call Mike,
Here is the hub available thru restoration supply. It is nicely made with worm gear adjustment. I almost put one in front of the Pierce Arrow dizzy shown above... but went another way. Note that center bore is only rough machined...
It's On! The F.A.S.T. Santa Margarita Ranch Time Trials are going to be "A Spectator Event" ! Registration of you and your car is $60 at the gate. If you pre-register it is $50 All other individuals (including crew and spectators) will be charged a an additional $10 each.
Friday the 25th of June the village of Santa Margarita will have their "Cruise Night" for "Pre-74" cars (I think that's the right age; I might be wrong).
As yet there is NO overnight RV parking or camping on "The Ranch" itself!
Welp, I've been having fun! If everything works out, I might have a few of these made out of aluminum!
My dad bought this early, cast iron, manual/centrifugal advance Mallory, Model C 11 some years ago. This is one of the first Mallorys made for the Model A by my understanding, around 1929. My dad rebuilt it, even had a new shaft and bushings made for it, but we could never run it reliably because the unique cap was cracked. My dad looked and never found another. I've looked and didn't find anything...until today. I went to Bert's Model A here in Denver and dug through random distributor parts and found what I thought was hen's teeth. Excited to try it out finally.
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One like this
I have an c 11 and B the c is complete could not get the idle correct. The b is missing parts I worry to send picture ( keep getting errors
Has anyone tried to fix a cracked cap? Was it successful? Sure seems to me you should be able to when you can't find a good one.
So what do I need to hook an exhaust to the header? I am not opposed too running an open pipe to the back
What about an exhaust clamp? Might be better attaching something to it, opposed to welding on it.
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