The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Jiminy, May 1, 2020.
What you want for the banger head?
Finest crimpers made in my opinion,Thomas and Betts
Kline makes nice strippers..shrinkable crimp fittings good,shrink tubing standard crimps better.Weatherpak or deutsch connectors for harnesses that have to come apart occaisionally,like head light..
Checking in for the Month. Not much going on. I sold my OT 61' Dodge wagon and now have a little money for banger parts! I am going to freshen up my Stock roadster mechanically. I also have some carbs out for rebuild and hopefully have a pair of 81's and a lake header on my coupe before too much longer. Hoping to have this all back together for the Dirt drags. I havent heard anything about if its canceled or not yet. Since things are opening up there is hope that this event hopefully will happen. If not I understand and I do want everyone to be safe.
Interest story about Rajo Jack
I use a Snapon crimper in the states that has never failed me, but I have a better one for marine use in Alaska. I’m stuck in Utah by Covid19 so no pictures. My son has a fenwick deluxe that is better than the Snapon but it’s pretty old and probably not available.
the key to good solder is ... clean parts & controllable heat . i use rosin core , but at times i use flux compound (hard to solder) ........... the more you do it , the better you are .
Don't be fooled by the camera. Gary
Brass plate recommends Gargoyle Mobil oil Arctic, summer & winter. Gary
I used to as well until I worked one summer on Diablo Canyon Nuclear plant construction. Those electricians crimped only. Figured if it was good enough for a nuclear reactor it was good enough for my car
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Checking in. Will soon be installing a high compression head-hope to see a little more pepper when I hit the gas pedal.
Checking in. Had to install a windshield and wipers to be legal. It folds down, so I can still enjoy squinting.
Late 31 with a small bed. Modified the stock type junction box. Not much room there.
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We're going to run cars at VARA's abbreviated "British Extravaganza" at Button Willow Raceway (East of Bakersfield CA) in mid-this month! Peter Giddings, of course won't be there with one of his PreWar Alfa's (he passed away last year)! But in our Race Group we'll have at least 5 cars! I won't be running for position or fastest laps! I just want to test my maintenance and modifications I did over the Winter!
Found an Bosch Model A/B magneto today, anybody ever run one of these?
I think you're right, practice is what I'm really lacking. If I just sat down once a week and spent an evening soldering together junk pieces of wire, I'd probably get handy at it. Add it to the list, I guess!
What type of heat source do you use? I have an electric iron I bought at Radio Shack but I don't think you can adjust the heat. Or is it a matter of timing on the joint?
I'd be up for book/video recommendations on this topic. Especially for producing what looks like something from the '20s-'40s--meaning good, professional work of that era. I find with things like this it's best to pick a system and adopt it, because a fellow can go nuts trying to consider every factor.
Has anyone heard of the new Rocket 428 made by Yapp? Jumped on the waiting list for one!
To save everyone from doing a Google search
Outside looks pretty cute but combustion chamber doesn't look much better than any of the other aftermarket heads
wonder if anybody has ever done and factual comparison in hp gains on any of these heads.
True.. Im still looking for a head
PIRANIO'S ANTIQUE AUTOMOTIVE
RUN NUMBER: 1
DESCRIPTION: PLUG OVER CYLINDER 26 DEGREES TIMING DATE: 1/6/2013
ENGINE: SHOP STREET ROD TIME: 2:30 PM
ENGINE NUMBER: CAAR9377 CU. IN. 213.735
BAROMETRIC PRESSURE: 30.43 ELEVATION: 590 TEMPERATURE: 68
STATION PRESSURE: 29.7963 CORRECTION FACTOR: 1.054786
ENGINE TEMPERATURE: 180 FUEL: 10% ETHANOL REGULAR GAS
GAUGE CORRECTED VOLUMETRIC
RPM READING TORQUE HORSEPOWER HORSEPOWER EFFIECENCY
1300 13.4 150.73 37.31 39.35 79.31662
1500 13.6 153.39 43.81 46.21 80.71436
1700 14 1 58.81 51.40 54.22 83.56626
2000 14 1 58.81 60.48 63.79 83.56626
2200 14.2 161.58 67.68 71.39 85.02209
2500 13.7 154.73 73.65 77.69 81.42013
2700 13.6 153.39 78.86 83.18 80.71436
3000 13.1 146.81 83.86 88.46 77.25307
3500 0.00 0.00 0.00 0
4000 0.00 0.00 0.00 0
SPARK PLUGS OVER CYLINDER
26 DEGREES TIMING
12.5-1 AIR FUEL RATIO ALL THROUGH
CAST IRON HEADER, SMITHYS MUFFLER
WEBER 32-36 DGEV CARBURETOR & INTAKE MANIFOLD
65 PRIMARY IDLE JET, 70 SECONDARY IDLE JET
150 PRIMARY MAIN JET, 145 SECONDARY IDLE JET
145 PRIMARY AIR CORRECTOR JET, 165 SECONDARY AIR CORRECTOR JET
CHAMPION N11YC SPARK PLUG .032" GAP
CRANE F-220/320-12 CAMSHAFT
I know that this is the dyno sheet that was done on a Lion Head and the combustion chambers are similar.
The torque peaked on this head above and correlates with the volumetric efficiency. Makes sense.
I don't know if anyone else has any dyno sheets and how this compares to a stock set up. I'm sure that it is vastly improved. I have a Lion III (which is this dyno'd head I believe) on the Cabriolet and it runs real respectful for a flathead. My butt dyno tells me that.
Cancelled...got the notice today
Put a blower on it and use the stock head. Be different....
Well I took a whole bunch of time making the chart look like a chart, but when I posted it...all that changed
Look at 2200 RPM, real respectful HP and Torque
David, I use one of these. Have used it since about 1995. I had to replace it a couple of years ago because I left it in the freezing garage and it came apart. Purely my fault. It works great. It has adjustable heat and various tips, and most importantly, cord free. Useful if you do under the dash stuff as I seem to do for alot of people.I can do very tiny stuff (44 gauge), all the way up to battery cable...(although it's a little tricky to do that big if you don't know what your doing). your run of the mill 12 - 18 gauge stuff is super easy.
Uh.........no, do not use a stock head. Without proper quench area and the plugs located over the valves you are looking for trouble with a blower. The "B" and "C" heads have a much better combustion chamber shape but you are still sacrificing with the plug location. Just my opinion. Dennis Piranio did a nice job documenting his work, I trust it for a good reference. Retson, in all honesty it will not matter that much which head you choose. I doubt you will notice a 5 HP difference, if that much. It will depend on how well you tune the motor and the camshaft, among what, another 100 factors? Find something that you like and run it, there are parts up in your section of the state.
Stay safe, John
I must admit my comment was tongue in cheek. I agree that there are other considerations other than opening the JV Whitney catalogue or going to the back of the Popular Mechanics magazine and ordering a part to put on and go.
The conversation is what imparts the knowledge and there are worse habits to have.
yes....may the 4orce be with you...........
Windup, no worries, good to see you feeling frisky.
At one time we didn't know any different and the JC Whitney was all there was.
The Head he is asking about is basically the same chamber as the Lion IV or so. Dennis Piranio probably had some input to its design. But back to my comment, just the head alone will not make it fast, that is the hard part.
I was up in that area last christmas and I passed on a couple Winfield heads, they are probably still there.
Take care, remember social distancing means staying 6 feet back from the screen.
If you want a heart shaped chamber at 6 to 1 buy a Buttermore/Snyder head and use the money you save to buy a cam..or distributor or what else you need. No indictment of anyone intended but beware churched up 'new' designs in all matters,not just speed. Folks try to introduce new models to stimulate business.
i just took my lion3 speed head off . it was great for torque & hp . trying a berts 6-1 head today .
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