The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Jiminy, Apr 30, 2018.
Hey Dave - @Midnight Rider - Nice to see you here.
nothing to add, just saying hi.
Mate says has good Babbitt and motor was well sorted runner, so wanted to save it if could.
Was hoping there was a new epoxy or similar that bonds to cast iron well, and could be used.
Looking for a new fandangled solution, but will pass on this too. Thanks for help.
This might be an option with his saved bits. Taking all the advice to him this weekend.
The truth be known, this is a photo shot at Turn Two at Laguna Seca Raceway during a qualifying race at the 2016 Rolex Monterey Motorsports Reunion; not at Buttonwillow last weekend. It shows my car leading a Delage/ERA driven by Derek Hill (Phil Hill's son). Peter Giddings' in his '31 Alfa Romeo "Monza (the #31 car) is running third. Peter in the Alfa is who I had a rather "Hairy" duel with last weekend. There aren't any photos yet out for the event at Buttonwillow last week.
Incidentally, though I briefly led the race at Laguna Seca in 2016, a rocker arm came loose and I had to drop out. I had problems with the OHV rocker system until I finally replaced all the nuts (other than those on the studs) with AN lock nuts (not "Nylocks").
Good information, thanks.
It might be a combination of all or some of the above too...locknstich/epoxy or silver braze/epoxy....you get the idea.
Depends on if the cooling system is pressurized too I would think along with the quality of the cast material.
BTW I'm an old refrigeration fitter and finding someone that does that kind of work might be someone to get involved for the silver brazing
Don't have and photos of any block repairs I've done but here is an A oil pump that I could find a photo of with 45% silver.
This is the only shot of the car at last weekend's races at Buttonwillow Raceway, so far. The recent mods I made were enough to fend off those charges by my friend Peter Giddings and his Alfa Romeo "Monza"; allowing me to grab "The Checker" first! The photo is by Brad Eells
Drained the oil and had antifreeze in it.
Popped the head off.
Don’t see anything obvious, short of the silver stuff, is that sealer? Possibly the culprit?
D469AF1F-80C8-47D9-82A7-7738D29D2655 by walls posted May 11, 2018 at 6:30 PM
3A5C962D-73BB-4B6D-99B0-D9E89A061EE0 by walls posted May 11, 2018 at 6:30 PM
FF3B5678-5776-4492-BA3A-EC5A5CA6702E by walls posted May 11, 2018 at 6:30 PM
4489423C-2E1A-47FA-8CE7-F352BEC5ADEF by walls posted May 11, 2018 at 6:30 PM
57A0D5E7-A906-46CB-8F12-650A5C0C7700 by walls posted May 11, 2018 at 6:30 PM
Can't see the pictures you have to make your album public I think.
No sealer used at all, either by me or the previous owner that built it. The Best gasket from Charlie does have sealer.
Did you take the head off before? I only like to use the Best head gaskets from Charlie once due to the built in sealer (red colored I think) so if you re-used the head gasket I am going to say that's the culprit.
Without seeing the silver stuff I going to assume that it is aluminum from the head or anti seize on the head studs that are exposed in the water passages, although I did not install the head studs so only a guess and I used straight water for the race of gentlemen and then drained and fill it with antifreeze after.
I cleaned the head water passages out in a parts cleaner as well as with a blow gun and ran a small wire brush thought the as much as I could get to, per Charlies instructions. No guarantee that all of it came out and I did not change the oil before you picked it up as I only put a maybe 25-50 miles on it during and after the race of gentlemen and I was going to take the head off for the winter.
Changed the album to public, so hopefully you can see now.
No, I didn’t take the head off, this is the first time.
Just seems strange, it was running alright in around the time I met you for our parts swap
I double checked the antifreeze before it got cold and all was good.
Changed intake/carb/exhaust couple other things...that was it.
Smoked when I started it up.
appears to be stuff from the head gasket . I would use the "BEST" gasket with copper coat on both sides .
I think that’s about where I’m at with it.
Worst case, I put the head gasket in, and it’s still blowin smoke.
Wasted $30 and an afternoon. At least it’s a flathead.
I saw the lot of carbon . maybe when its clean it will help you
Very strange I'm really scratching my head on this one.
Maybe the head warped a bit? Maybe put a straight edge on it with a feeler gauge?
If the silver stuff is shavings from machine work it should be gritty I would think.
I think I still have the installation instructions and I'm pretty sure Charlie said no gasket sealer with the Best gasket. I'll have to check or you could email him for s copy. He's pretty specific about installation.
How do the cylinder walls look? There was nice cross hatching on them when I put on the Lion head.
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I just remembered that I put a sacrificial anode in the radiator to help protect the head when using distilled water. If its not still there I would get another.
I wouldn't use copper coat on the head gasket with an aluminum head as it will cause galvanic corrosion and turn the motor into a battery.
Clean it up, new head gasket and run it.
I’ll post the results.
Sorry to clog up the banger thread with long distance troubleshooting.
But I figured who better to ask.
did not realize the head was aluminum ................. sorry
If you run B clutch housings (Front top, front lower = oil pan, and B-case or BB-bellhousing), you will need to use B to A rear motor mounts, as the A is wider with lower mounting holes, and a bracket with shaft for the pedals. If you've got or can get the A/AA parts, you don't need B-bell-to-A-frame motor mounts - just the pedal setup.
Besides this, the BB does the same as an AA will, when it comes to using it for another gearbox (being T5, Volvo M40 or others) - it's about the same depth too.
I recently put a B-box in my A, you can see the pictures on my instagram; https://www.instagram.com/dannerr_/
I went (by modern car ) to Vestjydsk Grusbaneløb (Western Jutlandic gravel track race) in the weekend, having a great time.
Anders, one of the guys behind this little meet, won the race again in his bangerpowered '29 Roadster, see pictures and videoclips here (swipe left for more): https://www.instagram.com/p/BirmZ3SHWiV/?taken-by=dannerr_
That 29B car (Anders', I presume) is the bee's knees. I saved that pic the moment it came up.
Well, I still think, he should lower it, just by reversing his main leafs... would make the car loose some of that high goofyness...
(Yeah, of course I’m just jealous! )
No worries. I got the Aluminum head for TROG and loved it, it's really lightweight. I think the cast iron would be better for the street as the Aluminum head seemed soft and in my opinion would not survive a few overheats on the road like a cast iron one would, although it has plenty of meat to flycut to flat again or even raise the compression.
My next Lion will be cast iron although I have a Snyder 6.1 cast iron sitting on the shelf. It might be interesting to do a butt dyno comparison.
Got a “best” gasket.
Putting it on tomorrow.
Got my pistons yesterday.
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WOW look great!!
who makes these? nice and light.
Race Tec in Huntington Beach.
They appear to be SBC forgings machined to fit Model A / B specs.
Piston with pin weighs right at 1.5 lbs.
P/M me if you want more details.
Sent you a pm. I have a A block that is bored .080. I am going to sleeve it back to std, these would be a nice addition.
So 307 HP out of a banger
https://www.extremetech.com/extreme...ur-cylinder-in-its-full-size-silverado-pickup. What is that about 165 cubic inches and it has a 4" stroke
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Sounds like a hand grenade. That much power out of that few cubes can't last long. BTW, has anyone driven a 1919 that shuts off at every stop light and restarts when you touch the gas? I'd hate to see the electronics it takes for that to happen.
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