The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Jiminy, May 2, 2015.
Tried that site, did not open?
Looking for distributor options currently.
Anyone using a Ford Prefect/popular distributor? I have one that need rotor, points and cap I'm thinking of using.
I am using one at the moment, I filed the slots to increase the advance (well I think that what I did it was a while ago).
I also tried a programmable advance unit in the stock distributer, I pulled it out because I was having trouble, but latter found I had a partially faulty ballast resister, I will try it again when I have time.
Richie I am using a Mallory at the moment
but before that I was using Datsun 1600 distributor
pick them up for about $5.00 at swap meets you do need to turn them down on a lathe a small amount
I can turn it down for you if you want
Might have to see you about that Colin, have the insert conrods at the local engine shop. Will assemble my engine this week
Try this link. I am also using one and would recommend one.
The darsun one is the way to go
Dont forget to take some pictures of the engine assembly, are you inserting the mains as well? and who is your engine shop?
So are you all doing 12volt?
This is at pre assy when I found a big issue with crank machining, have since fitted another beaver tail crank.
I'm trying to build on the cheap but did not want to cut corners anywhere with the build so is taking some time.
Using a diamond A head machined down to 100 under, this will do until I can afford one of the new cast iron Winfield heads.
Running a Torqueflite 904 behind it.
Still need a intake and sort my distributor out for it.
The pop distributor has 10 degree marked on the advance plate. This will be 20 degree crank timing I think?
Will look into making that mod too, and always looking at junk Lucas distributors at swap meets I can parts swap the factory 13 or 15 advance plate
Thanks! The flanges where cut out of 3/8" in a water jet locally here. very precise stuff
The sound of that engine and the exhaust was intense and the header did not sound too big either. it has 2" valves with 5/8" lift. so it needs some tubes.
I feel useing a pop distributor is like going back to the dark ages not much better than stock I swear by early Datsun electronic dizzys only because thats what I used when I first started building these motors please look a modern four dizzys remember keep it simple look at modern motors and try and find out how progress can be applied to our motors sure if you are building a period build use the old methods that applied at the time but surely we should think of modern tech and how we can apply it to our old motors. You young guys should be getting your heads around crank triggered devices and fuel injection also cost out your project first That is why I went for a Scat crank and rods it was cheaper than getting the original crank drilled plus the rods came with inserts fitted that suited the rods and I feel I was getting a better stronger job. The cost of inserts and poured mains was about the same so I went with inserts having the block carefully line bored with modern equipment (it is surpriseing how often the old massproducing equipment got it a wee bit out) modern methods are better or should I say we have progressed.
RussTee do you use the vac advance or plug it off on the 1600 distributor?
Connect to manifold vacuum or some type of carb port?
Have started my hunt of a 1600 distributor.
doesn't need counter weights ?
Well, mmmm mayby, my machinist could cut out counterweights and weld on but just wanted to see how it goes with the automatic transmission as far as vibration.
It's only going to rev up to 3 grand or so.
I usually connect the vac advance to the manifold.
Just wondering how many of you have made a pattern and had it cast for say a side plate on my tee motor I made all my own side plates covers and sump finned and cast in aluminium I feel that this is traditional because thats how it was done back in the day I also feel that nowdays we concentrate so much on being traditional that we loose sight of what traditional rodding was all about that being building (making) something that improves performance and improves the look of your project.
I am also involved with veteran cars that is pre 1919 cars early magnetos can be a problem so I have built triger devices inside the case of old magnetos the veteran restorers think it is great simple hot rodding to me but it works and gets old cars back on the road for everyones enjoyment.
HaHa am I just a cranky old bugger sounding off like this or is it something we all should be considering?
Russtee, if my crap 29 RPU highboy build it's a mix of era parts, 60s smooth back 9" cut down to 56" using a 66 Torqueflite 904, my early 28 full insert engine, touring style cam with 94 or 97 carb (have both), 33 axle, F1 brakes and it's RHD steering bent to fit. Talking to Gary Page it's really will be the only one like it on the world
Using a lot of old parts repurposed to locate diff like 46 radius rods used as lower rods on triangulated ladder bars.
But the overall look of my RPU will make it late 40s style.
I'm using cheaper parts if I can get away with it, 35/36 radius rods are $400 here, 40 to 48 are $100
automatic transmission as far as vibration
I was wanting to try a c-4 behind mine . ill be curious how yours works .
by the way , beautiful crank . counterweights would only make it look messy ......... steve
There are many options as you well know.
I run EFI on the race motors, because it is almost infinitely adjustable.
As for the SCAT crank and rods, it is very good hardware in the proper application.
I am fixing one for a Friend who had the bearings installed improperly.
Just because you use modern equipment doesn't mean you get better results. A dull operator puts out junk.
2 unrelated questions for all of you wizards - #1) who can rebuild a B' distributor to be used on a mild flathead engine? I know I could probably do it myself, but I can't seem to find all the parts I need in any of the catalogs (Macs, Snyders, Brattons) that fit both the A & B units, so what is different between the A parts available, and the unavailable B parts that will not transfer over from the A type unit? #2) Since my OHV engine is not yet ready for prime time, I have an available running B' engine that I would like to install my OHV head on it and run it for a while - fit the lines, carbs, exhaust system etc and work out all the mechanical bugs while waiting for the pressurized B to be completed sometime this Summer..... Sooo, is there enough oil pressure from a stock type B oiling system to pump oil up to the rocker arms / shaft and lubricate everything so as not to starve the rockers while driving it around & working out the bugs? For all the OHV engines that were built during the 30s, 40s & 50s that people just added the head and drove them, there must have been enough oil from somewhere to lubricate the rockers? Has anyone ever tried using a mechanical B' fuel pump with a line running from the side or bottom of the oil pan up to the rocker arm oil feed ? Seems like a logical question, if you don't know the answer......
Response #1: Bubba's Ignition on the HAMB and Ford Barn may be able to rework your distributor.
Response #2: I ran a Denver-Miller Head with stock "B" oiling, and there was no problem oiling the rockers. I have a Serr-Miller on a Pressurized A Engine in my Vicky, and use an in-line regulator, otherwise too much oil goes to the head.
Response 3: I have never tried a "B" Fuel Pump to oil the head. Using the outlet on he side of the block to tap the oil passage works, and you can also tap into the lover part of the side cover (where the "B" oil passage is) to get the pressurized oil for the head.
Hope this helps.
I have a B engine with Babbitt and an original CRAGAR head with a stock B oil pump. No problems after five years
If you ,as you stated, could probably do the distributor yourself call Mel Mallory at FS ignitions and he could possibly supply you with lighter springs. If you order a Mallory timing kit from Jeg's or Summit you will find it consists of an assortment of timing springs with a few light ones. FS used to sell a kit for the B distributor but quit because too many purchaser's had problems or some such reason. The stock weights are limited in total advance as they have an interference problem with the distributor body. You can increase the slots by carefully grinding with Dremel type tool. I just grind enough off the outside of the weight to clear and check advance with a timing light. The B distributor wold probably be fine with just lighter springs for a flathead or mild overhead on the street. The main problem with most used B distributors is that the oil hole to lube the shaft is not drilled through. I buy rebuilt exchange shafts from Renner's.
Usually the problem with oiling the rockers with out restriction is too much oil.
Working at assembling my Model A engine, back 12 months ago I picked up a mix of new engine and body parts, mostly valves, springs and the split retainers as a mixed parts lot from a ex Model A restorer.
Checking the springs I found there is quite a difference between the original engine springs and the newer shorter ones I picked up?
Are these still ok to use?
Do a mock assy and measure the spring height.
Then check the spring pressure at that height, if both are relatively close then they should be fine to use.
The shorter ones look to be heavier wire which increases spring rate.
Johnneilson, that's what I suspect. Yes the springs do look heavier.
Will give them a go
This followed me home this weekend. Anyone recognize it? The guy I got it from didn't know much about it. I pretty sure it came from the San Diego area. It had a T body on it that the last owner tossed. That's about all I know.
I figure someone will recognize the intake and air horns. Anyone?
What's your plans with it?
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