Technical *** May 2015 Banger Meet - Mayday Mayday ***

Bluto, That's some nice wood!

 

Thank you I need to get it on juice brakes

 

I need one of those !!

 

Here is my new exhaust. Parts from Cone Engineering, SW Chev header kit and Charlie Yapp. Mitre tube cutter and Dremel cut-off tool made the cuts easier. Please ignore the poor welding. My friend posted a video of the startup on his FB page roosters rodz.

 

Wardog looks a bit different than mine the ones I use generally have part of the casting sticking out on the sidewith a slot cut into it that allows a hold down bolt to be lossened so you can turn the dizzy for advance and retard (I generally cut it off so it looks more like a B dizzy)
The carb genrally are on HQs not up on Holdens so dont know if thats a grey motor they sit the other way round on aftermarket manifolds so there is a little playing about making up a linkage think there may be a pic in my albums.

 

Thanks Russtee. I know a guy running a grey motor carb ( smaller than a red motor carb ) on a stock a banger. HQ's had red motors witch is good because I have a red motor carb on the shelf and of course I have been told it is too big!

 

Get a set of ''Teds Floaters'' Totally different than previous floaters, installable without any welding, drilling. No problem going back to stock.

They WORK!

Herb

 

My speedster just got a bit speedier!


It's a Yapp Vortex manifold with two Zenith B carbs. I was running a single Zenith B on an enlarged A manifold and got a slight boost in performance, but this is definitely better. It's running pretty well but I still need to experiment with the idle setting and GAV adjustments.

 

More header pics!

Trying to figure out how I want to run mine...here's a little sketch I did the other day (not at all to scale, but you get the idea).

 

Make a second one while yer at it! The design looks great!!!

 

HQ 202 motor is the same size as a Model A , and even though the Holden will rev higher the volume of air moved in a four stroke cycle for the whole motor is about the same, it will work fine. The A manifold turned upside down will work with a flange adjustment/adapter , but a custom made manifold will be better.

 

97 is correct custom made manifold is the way to go if you are useing two carbs dont forget a balance tube. the advantage of holden carbs is that they have an adjustable main jet option making them easier to adjust and generally they dont leak as much as old second hand sidie V8 carbs which often need a lot of work reconditioning them to stop leaks and cleaning them out. I always use a air cleaner as most good engine reconditioners will tell you they can tell the difference if the motor has been on a unsealed road its getting expensive to build a good motor nowdays. It would be good to see some good air cleaners traditional looking for banger motors here I dont think just a foam filter is enough please feel free to post your aircleaners.

 

I don't have one to mock up, but wouldn't a filter from a cold air intake system work? You could alway hide it inside a cover of some sort.

 

so... if I am building (or rather paying someone to build) a diamond block motor that has not beed sleeved and in good shape. Looking at going to a 7-1 head. How much of the stock stuff is it OK to reuse (assuming it checks out). For example do I machine the rods for inserts? or do I need to buy inserted rods. same with valves, oil pump, water pump etc.

 

I had the same question when I started this build. Was gonna go 7 to 1 with an old Winfield red head, would've been fine with a good stock lower end (but) then decided to go with an OHV.
Now I have to run insert bearings and full oil pressure, 10 to 1 compression 4 port cross flow!
If you go inserted rods, you should also do full oil pressure. but if not, I believe you should at least buy good rods with new bolts and not just ARP nuts on stock machined rods...
It all comes down to how much $$$ you want to invest.
Have fun and good luck on your build.
Joe

 

Well done, Joe...she's a 'beaut! Is that an underdrive crank pulley I spy?

 

Yes it is! good eye! Thanks for the compliment!
I'm thinking that might help slow the water pump down a little...
I had the radiator re cored and had to cut off 1/3 of the impeller on my stock water pump cause the water was filling the top tank faster than it could travel down to the bottom tank..
This Cragar pump has the impeller deep in the housing that might not be a good idea to try and cut inside. (but I will if I have to!)
I'm in the process right now of removing the A engine for the new diamond B.
Joe

 

I plan on following Jim's book on the oil set up.

What side cover is in your motor?

 

Hi, the cover is a Cragar. The fins don't match the Crager valve cover fins, but it does look good with the beehive oil filter! I drilled the beehive to 1/4 npt and drilled a couple more holes inside the center bar to use for full flow and used the Wix metal cased filter cartridge.

 

Ouch!

.

 

I found this on ebay, thought it would work well as a side drive ignition set up to use with a OHV set up that blocks off the stock distributor hole. Tach drive is a bonus.

 

I was asking the same questions Jim with my yellow head and have decided to see how it runs. Besides the dual 81`s and a regrind on the cam, I think the babbitt should be able to handle it plus no intention of flat out racing. If I was to do anything it would be more likely inserts on the mains.

 

I would suggest using babbit mains.I recently had a quote of $550 for babbit mains in an A block, $575 in a B block. So Ca price. My most recent quote was $ 800 for insert mains in either block. There is a lot less stress on the mains. I 'm using AER "Skokie" rods but I modified them to use 4 inserts per rod but I understand there has been improvements in the original inserts. Although I realize there is a difference in quoted material the "Skokie" rods and Scat sure do look similar. Don't hear much feedback on the latest in cranks and rods. I feel that we have stressed the "Skokie" rods quit a bit with no problems but we don't run the higher RPM's needed in lakes racing. We are running close to 8.5 to 1 with a repop Al Winfield head 3.93's in the rear end 3675 RPM's = 82 MPH in 1/4

 

I saw this little Banger powered roadster at a local show last month. It was very refreshing to see its Wico Mag, CRAGAR hub caps and HC head in a sea of Camaro's, Mustang's and Gold Chainer Street Rods. I never could find the owner



Also gave my Banger a RustOleum rebuild, a new ceramic coated manifold and some trim rings

 

That's my little Roadster in the top picture. That was the first time I took it to a show. My friend with the 69 Chevy convertible talked me into doing the cruise and hang out on Saturday. I'm glad I did , cause I met a lot of really nice people that are into Bangers! Sorry we didn't get to meet. I had to do a little walking around too...
I'm in the middle of installing the Cragar OHV engine that I posted a few posts back.
Maybe we'll meet some time soon?
Joe

 

Nice car Joe
Where are you located at? A car built like that is not very common around these parts. I love it BTW and hoping to build something similar in the future. Yes we should get together, I'd love to see the overhead. I do have a question about the current motor though. When I was checking out the motor I bumped a front wheel and the Mag shook around like it was loose, is it?

 

Thanks Tiny, I'm in Red Bluff and yeah that's funny you noticed, the mag came loose from the 30 mile trip on the freeway...60+mph (unbalanced splasher engine) I didn't have my stub screw driver. I did get it to tighten a little though just enough to make it back home.
It never misfired thanks to the groove in the mag and the pin lock on the head.
Joe

 

Yeah, it was exciting.
It was even more exciting when the yoke was found to have been broken and not something else.
Motor is in car and ready to got to El Mirage.

J

 

Bill,
Unless something changed in the last month, the Scat rods are "A" journal only. A very nice piece.
I had a crank break in the center of the #4 throw, yep "A" size and drilled for oil. The break ran along the drilled hole.

Lets see, 3.25 gear, 5400 RPM, yep, 142mph. I wonder if she will pull a 3.0??

J

 

Nice score Buddy!!
Is the input drive 1:1 with the Dizzy shaft?
It looks like it could be a crank speed type drive and that would make getting a gear next cam really easy.
Any idea what it came from? too heavy for aircraft, cable drive could be tractor.
J