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Material type for bushings?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Missing Link, May 20, 2005.

  1. Missing Link
    Joined: Sep 9, 2002
    Posts: 865

    Missing Link
    Member

    I have seen many different types of shaft bushings made of different material types. But my question directly pertains to steering columns. Let me explain...

    I have a stock 46 Ford steering column that has the steering box removed from it. The outside sleeve of the column has been cut back about 2" to reveal the actual steering shaft at the end where the original box was located. The steering shaft connects to the steering wheel, therefore this shaft rotates as the wheel is moved. The steering shaft is 3/4" O.D. and the sleeve is 1-1/2" I.D. The sleeve is stationary. This leaves me with a 3/8" gap between the two. Right now the steering shaft just flops around inside the sleeve.

    The 3/8" gap needs to be filled to support the steering shaft, however the steering shaft needs to have full rotational movement with minimal friction. This is where I need to place a bushing of softer material, but I am not sure what material to use. I would think that a bushing about 1-1/2" to 2" long should do the trick.

    It looks like both the steering shaft and sleeve are steel. This is obviously an important area that sees a lot of different stress loads, vibration and friction. The bushing definately needs to be some material that can handle these circumstances for a long time and not need to be replaced.

    The bushing would need to fit tightly to avoid spinning with the steering shaft or sliding around in the sleeve.

    But what to use for this bushing? Brass? Bronze? Rubber? Teflon? I'm really not sure. And better yet, where can the material be had?

    Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
     
  2. Slag Kustom
    Joined: May 10, 2004
    Posts: 4,312

    Slag Kustom
    Member

    easy way would be to get some hard plastic from mcmastercarr machine to size hold it in place with a grease fitting . if you dont have acess to machine it look threw there bearing selection and you might be able to get some thing the size you need.
     
  3. Tha Driver
    Joined: May 11, 2005
    Posts: 903

    Tha Driver
    BANNED
    from S.E. USA

    I would look for a sealed bearing. With 3/8 clearance you should be able to find one. That way you wouldn't have to worry about grit entering the bushing & the wheel would rotate freely.
    ~ Paul
    aka "Tha Driver"

    Giggle Cream - it makes dessert *funny*!
     
  4. jmcglynn
    Joined: May 19, 2005
    Posts: 115

    jmcglynn
    Alliance Vendor

    A bushing is more than adequate, a sealed bearing would be OK but isn't necessary. Look on McMaster.com, chances are that they will have a solid bushing that will fit.

    SAE 841 (oilite/oil impregnated) material would be good, a plastic like Rulon would be nice too.

    I have to make a steering column for my stude, I'll post some pics when I do that.
     

  5. chopolds
    Joined: Oct 22, 2001
    Posts: 6,208

    chopolds
    Member
    from howell, nj
    1. Kustom Painters

    I have the McMaster catalog sitting on my desk in front of me. Quick look couldn't find a bearing that fits your needs. Ball bearings for 3/4 have to big an OD, needle are too small, as are any teflon, UHMW, Delrin, or bronze. Any of these will do. I would choose a needle roller # 5905K67, a double sealed one...less than $8. You'll need to put a spacer inside the column sleeve as the bearing has an OD of 1". A cheaper way to go is with a bronze bushing, #6391K257, with a 7/8" OD, but I'd install a grease fitting with a bronze bushing. About $5.
     
  6. I like to use sealed ball bearings.

    After seeing what 36-3 window did with what looks to be an easy to obtain Polyurethane bushing that looks like an excellent way to go as well.

    Energy Suspension has these bushings in a variety of colors and sizes. You should be able to get one close to what you need.



    The first pic shows a GM 3/4" x 36 spline steering shaft with - left to right:

    Stainless steel keeper flange. It has three 1/4-20 cup point set screws for retainment. (36-3 windows single set screw should be adequate, I'm just a worrywart and overkill is a normal part of my vocabulary.)

    Sealed ball bearing. The ID is 3/4" and the OD is sized to suit the adapter bushing. The bushing required due to the steering column jacket is 1 5/8" x .120 wall aluminum tubing. It's the smallest OD bearing I could find.

    The stepped bearing adapter bushing. It slides into the 1 5/8" aluminum tubing and is JB Welded in place. I did run it sans epoxy for quite a while, but when it started to wear I epoxied it in place. The top end bushing is a light friction fit and no problems there.

    Second pic is an overall view of the steering column.
    I have a similar setup in my 32 roadster and it's done well for 42,000 miles.
    It steers very easy. That due to the sealed ball bearings although there shouldn't be much of a steering effort increase needed with the Polyurethane bushings.

    You may not need a stepped adapter bushing if you utilize the Ford stock steel column tubing.

    One little trick we used to do was buy a 48" long 1 3/4" OD scavenger pipe from the muffler shop. (Muffler shop tips et al always seemed to have excellent chrome. Holds true today if you get gennie muffler shop stuff. The Pep Boys chrome tips aren't all that polished and the chrome starts fading about the first time you wash the car.)
    The scavenger tubing was cut to the desired length, welded to a short piece of the smaller OD Ford column so as to utilize the stock clamp.
    A Moon column drop bored out in the company lathe, a bushing up top (we re-used the stock Ford upper bushing) and you had a nice steering column different from anyone else's at the time. (Early 60's.)
     
  7. tommy
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 14,757

    tommy
    Member Emeritus

    Another cheap alternative is to cut off the top of another donor steering column. I used the top 2" of a 57 Ford column along with its bearing and retainer. Weld it on upside down. In my case the weld lined up with the floor board. I didn't even have to do any body work.:D There are an ass load of cars and trucks that have the 1-1/2" mast. You or a buddy may have some laying around in the junk pile. I get a kick out of recycling old parts.

    Oh yeah You may have to remove the turn signal sw housing but that's easy.
     
  8. JOECOOL
    Joined: Jan 13, 2004
    Posts: 2,771

    JOECOOL
    Member

    We use UHMW ( ultra high molecular weight ) a nylon ,plastic type stuff .Any reasonable sized city should have it . Buy a rod the same size as the id of the the column and drill or bore the id to fit the shaft.. Slip it in and drill an 1/8 hole partway in from the outside and put a pop rivet to hold it from coming out.

    We have done this a bunch of times and it always works out great ,The UHMW also comes in black if it works better for you.
     
  9. Missing Link
    Joined: Sep 9, 2002
    Posts: 865

    Missing Link
    Member

    Thanks a lot guys. The info definately helped.
     
  10. MP4/8
    Joined: Dec 5, 2004
    Posts: 90

    MP4/8
    Member

     

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