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Technical Master Cylinder Location?

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by chris101_ny, Aug 30, 2022.

  1. chris101_ny
    Joined: Aug 3, 2011
    Posts: 114

    chris101_ny
    Member

    Hi fellas,
    I ran into an issue I need some ideas for a solution. I am building a '31 Ford Sedan. The motor (350), trans (350), body, and steering are where they are going to live. A while ago I bought a master cylinder with a booster that sits under the floor with the pedal coming up. I thought I'd have enough room, but it turns out I don't. Unless I have the pedal assembly go through the firewall, and even without the booster, it looks like it won't fit because the trans cross member is in the way. One thought I had was to buy/make a cross member that will sit below the bottom of the frame so I'd be able to move the master cylinder back. Unfortunately, it's already welded in, making that a pain in the a$$. I was also thinking maybe I can mount it under that dash and flip the pedal assembly upside down (but that would probably look stupid). I would like to use the part I already have. Does anyone have any solutions they've used or would like to see me try as a guinea pig?
    Thanks in advance!
     
  2. chessterd5
    Joined: May 26, 2013
    Posts: 902

    chessterd5
    Member
    from u.s.a.

    Pictures would help a lot. The 3 basic places you have described is normally where the master cylinder goes.
    1. Under driver side floor
    2. Mounted high on outside of the firewall.
    3. Some sort of 90 degree bracketry behind the dash.
     
    lothiandon1940 likes this.
  3. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 2,408

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

    I have a 31 coupe with the master under the floor. It doesn’t have a booster but there is no problem room wise. Model A’s are light, don’t need a booster. Why won’t it work under the floor ?
     
    lothiandon1940 and Just Gary like this.
  4. Why do you think you NEED a booster? You don't.

    Look @Dave G in Gansevoort 's thread about his roadster, lots of good and bad ideas there. a remote under floor MC is prob your solution
     

  5. X-cpe
    Joined: Mar 9, 2018
    Posts: 1,985

    X-cpe

    DSC00225 (2).JPG

    Could you make a mount on the back side of your cross member and then get a piece of DOM and make an extended push rod? I didn't want my MC to extend below my 3" tall frame rails so I raised it and moved the back of the cap to the front edge of the seat. That allowed me keep the front section of the floor as low as possible for leg room on my channeled car.
     
    Last edited: Sep 2, 2022
    Ned Ludd, vtx1800, harpo1313 and 4 others like this.
  6. Just what I mentioned @Dave G in Gansevoort did, very common in the 80s
     
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  7. My crossmember also interfered with the M/C placement.
    I kept the brake pedal where it needed to be ergonomically- relative to the seat, floor & firewall.
    Then I lengthened the P&J bracket by 3.25" and @oj machined a longer & stronger pushrod.
    Together, they reposition the master cylinder farther aft, but keep the brake pedal right where it needs to be.

    And with a properly sized M/C bore, you won't need a booster.:)
    mc1.jpg mc2.jpg mc3.jpg mc4.jpg
    20200515_202656~3.jpg
     
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  8. Kevin Ardinger
    Joined: Aug 31, 2019
    Posts: 794

    Kevin Ardinger
    Member

    If the fuel tank is gone from under the dash there is a ton of room under there. Build a structure and mount some Kugel pedals with reverse mount master cylinder. I wish I had done that.
     
  9. Kevin that's a good idea, however you have to service it that's a problem. On my 1930 CCPU
    The gastank is under the bed and I can unbolt the cowl to service the master cylinder. On my T it's under the T gas tank door.
     
  10. chris101_ny
    Joined: Aug 3, 2011
    Posts: 114

    chris101_ny
    Member

    Great idea! Thanks
     
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  11. chris101_ny
    Joined: Aug 3, 2011
    Posts: 114

    chris101_ny
    Member


    Great, thanks!
     
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  12. Lose that booster as mentioned. You don't need it and it just makes placement all that more difficult.
     
  13. jaracer
    Joined: Oct 4, 2008
    Posts: 2,446

    jaracer
    Member

    I made this for my Model A and got the master cylinder up on the bulkhead. My car has a Buick Nailhead so there is a shelf in the firewall to mount it to both the shelf and bulkhead. I needed the bell crank arrangement for pedal clearance around the steering column. 2015_01_16_0351.JPG 2015_01_16_0352.JPG
     
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  14. chris101_ny
    Joined: Aug 3, 2011
    Posts: 114

    chris101_ny
    Member

    ,
    Great idea, thanks for the pics!
     
    lothiandon1940 likes this.
  15. chris101_ny
    Joined: Aug 3, 2011
    Posts: 114

    chris101_ny
    Member

    Thanks for the pics, they are really helpful! The juices (no pun intended) are really flowing! I personally find it best to 'sleep on it' for a day or two, but this one seems like it will take a couple of extra days to decide where I should land
     
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  16. ramblin dan
    Joined: Apr 16, 2018
    Posts: 3,623

    ramblin dan

    I bought something similar to this set up at a swap meet cause the price was right. I think it goes under the dash although I don't quite know how you would go about checking the fluid levels without taking it down. brake ass. i bought.jpg
     
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  17. ratreo
    Joined: Jan 24, 2010
    Posts: 76

    ratreo
    Member

    I’ve used a 2” dia. inspection mirror to check the levels and bought a plastic syringe from the grocery store ($7.00 locally) to use when I need to add brake fluid. I also bought a short piece of clear plastic hose and connected it to the output tip of the syringe. I have had to be creative on using a magnet to position the mirror so you can see what you’re doing when adding the fluid
     
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  18. dln1949
    Joined: Nov 30, 2012
    Posts: 149

    dln1949
    Member

    I would much rather have brake fluid drip on the ground than on my foot. That said put the master cylinder where you want to. I have always mounted pedals under the floor. Doing my 29 sedan now with a store bought mounting bracket and pedal(TCI I think). The pedal pivots just a bit in front of where the front floor and toe board come together. My car has a SBC and 350 trans and firewall clearance is not an issue. You may have a master cylinder/brake pedal assembly for other than Model A, or maybe mounted to high on the frame, just guessing. If the portion of the pedal that] goes up from the pivot loop is parallel to the toe board then when push on the brake pedal pad the arc of the pedal should clear the firewall. Might need a little notch or slot, depending on how low your firewall goes. Pedal location is one of the critical items in my opinion, you want them to work and you want to be able to operate them in reasonable comfort. Now go out in the garage and hit somthin with a hammer, this is supposed to be fun.
     

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