Master cylinder location on Model A RHD?

Looking for ideas on master cylinder location under floor using stock pedals. Build is a Model A RPU banger with Macs bellhousing with open driveline and F1 brakes both ends.
Most ideas I come across are on USA vehicles with LHS pedals.
No battery on the right side to worry about at least, direct mount to transmission, bell crank setup or something else?
Love to see all your ideas you have.

 

Got any pictures of how your pedals are setup? Might help!

 

Are you running fenders?

 

PM sent but here is a picture of what I did on my present A coupe.... Greg

 

Sorry don't have any yet, picking up the peddles with standard bellhousing next week.
The Macs T5 bellhousing uses the standard brake and clutch setup and is actually designed to use mechanical brakes

 

Forgot to mention will be a highboy but do plan to eventually run fenders.

 

33 Wire, love it, great idea and easy to copy on the RHS.

 

Hi Ritchie R

I have the Mac's bellhousing with a T5 in my A Roadster project, although with an S-10 4WD T5 and a closed drive conversion

I am running original model A pedals off the bellhousing, but mine are LHD
LHD or RHD should however make no difference to how I am doing my MC setup

I am running 40 Ford brakes

So I have run the original A pull rod from the pedals back to the crossmember

Inside the crossmember I am building a bell crank like the one Pist-N-Broke used in posts 9 and 15 of this thread.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=846271&showall=1

That should work RHD as well, just reverse the bell crank

However in Australia you need to run a dual circuit brake system, so instead of the 48 master cylinder he used I have a 1 1/8 bore GM MC

I also run a distribution block with residual preassure valves and a proportioning valve, which I will mount on the back of the crossmember and then connect to the flexible hose onto the torque tube
I have that due to having multiple wheel sets with different tire sizes, and wanting to tune brake bias

Hope that helps

 

Hi Mark, another good idea. I have a HQ master cylinder I have been carting around for years, might finally have a use for it.

 

Richie, You will only have just under 4:1 pedal ratio with the stock pedals. If you use a large bore master cyl; you will never get enough pressure. Doing the math for 100# of push with the foot gives 900 psi to the cylinders with a 3/4 bore cylinder. A bit more than needed but works great. Being you need a dual system where you live could you use 2 master cylinders in a balance bar setup? I was originally going to do that on my build. As you said you could easily put my setup on the other side of the trans. If you want any other pictures let me know. Greg

 

I used a 67 Mustang drum/drum non-boosted master with pedals of unknown parentage, but yeilding a 6:1 ratio approx. I an running a flathead V8 which is very tight with the starter motor in the way, and a Macs adapter with 84-87 F150 trans. The clutch pedal will not depress further than the toe board due to hitting the V8 starter, but does not matter as the Falcon diaphragm clutch and custom offset plate (also from Macs) operate perfectly before the pedal hits the toe board.
The tight confines of an A certainly require head-scratching and ingenuity, but it can be done. I also had to clear the steering, and the right side exhaust pipe also has to squeeze through there. Good luck.... patience and perseverance are the catch-words for today!

 

The 1 and 1/8 master cylinder duplicates the bore diameter and swept volume of a 48 Ford

The bell crank inside the crossmember has different length arms either side of the pivot, so it adds mechanical advantage.

Been a while since I did the maths, but I worked out it gave me about the same mechanical advantage as a 6:1 pedal

Anyway it worked for PistonBroke and I know a couple of others who have copied it too