March Hares - or Tortises...and BANGERS!

Surprised I can't find a March Banger meet thread to add to the Tech Link already, so.....

Here you go. The only banger-related thing I've done is ask someone a question about a banger head.

Roll on March Banger Thread!

 

been waiting for march....anyone have info on these heads....

 

My only banger news is that I had my coupe in the autorama.


I have a performance (or lack of) question. And it seems to be something that is getting worse with time. When I originally added the speed goodies, I was getting pretty good accelleration and the carbs were fed by gravity only. Then engine got worse, but I found a vacuum leak. Got a little better, but never been the same. I just added a fuel pump that now allows me to stop at stop lights without the bowls starving for gas and the car wanting to die (improvement) but now I'm seeing a power under load problem.

When accelerating in first at a stop light, the car runs great, shift to second and accelerate and the car starts feeling like it's missing firing in the cyls. If I back off the pedal, it catches up, but if I gas it, it's like the engine is missing or cutting out, or not firing, sputters and then eventually kicks back in again. Same into 3rd gear. I am able to get the car up to speed, but it wants to sputter a lot getting there.

My set up, Thomas head (aprox 7:1), Pertronix ignition with manual advance on the column (I'm adjusting advance as I drive a lot looking for the sweet spot and that doesn't change the sputtering), Dual 81s with stock jets, Newly added electronic fuel pump with 2.5 - 4 psi and dual exhaust without mufflers.

I've wondered if I've cooked my pertronix unit. I've changed my coil, looked for grounded wires, etc. I'm going to try putting a stock distributor back on the car with points just to see if I can get rid of the sputter. Only other ideas have been possibly valves not seating properly, etc. No sign of a vacuum leak either. Plugs look good. I'm stumped and my friends say put the 40 flathead in it that I have in my garage. I kinda feel like I want to solve the mystery first before bailing.




Newly added fuel pump.

 

Here is the banger link list .


For the HAMB banger newbies, here are some links to a lot of banger info:

Flat Ernie maintains the monthly link list. Every month is listed:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=161498


Banger basics. another info link list:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=251717

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=42480

Gear ratio / speed and RPM calculator:

http://www.accuautoparts.com/calculatorfin.jsp


Model A master cylinder mounting bracket ideas:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...73#post4953173


Maybe these links should be posted early in each months meeting.

If anyone knows of more, please post them.

.

 

Does anyone know if there's a way to tell what year Model A a transmission is from?

-Dave

 

You might check the "Model A Judging Standards". I know there are some differences over the years but don't know what or when.

 

I thought I would post a few pics of our local Chandler, AZ downtown car show from Saturday. This will get you guys in the colder climates thinking more of spring (or maybe about moving ).

 

Have you checked your fuel cap , make sure the breather is not blocked...try driving for a couple of blocks with half a tank of gas and no cap...

 

Elrod, From what I understand the electonic ignition will work or quit alltogether, no in between. Could still be ignition, Spark plug? wire? cap?

 

Hey Elrod,

I read your post and I didn't see any reference to a fuel regulator. 4 lbs. would probably be too much for a Stromberg or two. 2.5 would probably work OK. I just went back and looked and i guess that lil thing in the line is a regulator. It also appears that the fuel line is running from the top of the pump to the carb. The regulator should be in line between the pump and the carb. Have you checked the flow?

 

I had seen on Vanpelt's website about Troubleshooting Strombergs that a pressure range between 1.5 and 3.5 was ok. I also did a lot of reading on here about what pumps to buy and the one I put on the car was a recommended pump (don't have part number here at work but can post later) but I don't see why a regulator wouldn't help. I don't have a pressure gauge hooked up either, so that is a good first place to look.

Glad to hear that elec. ignition is either good or bad. I was worried that I may have fried it or something by jump starting the car or something like that. It seems to work fine and has brand new coil, cap, rotor, plugs and wires.

In the picture, there is a fuel filter, then what I believe is a drain back valve on the bottom side of the pump. The instructions said that the pump should be mounted with output on top if mounted vertically.

I also wondered if the + side of the coil was arcing to the fuel pump, but I moved the wires to almost an inch from the pump and shielded the side of the pump closest to the coil with tape to try to prevent that and nothing changed.

 

Elrod...
you have a lot of 90s in you set up I would check for flow.

 

Yep every 90 degree fitting will reduce flow. Calculated as equal to the friction in a length of pipe 30 times the inside diameter of the fitting .

However Elrod had the problem before he put the pump on... i agree it sounds like either a flow/low float level or could it be carb icing... maybe not in Texas???

Is there a filter between the bottom of the tank and the firewall fitting...inside the car, or a fuel tap /pickup which could be partially blocked??? A flow test is in order...!!

 

Here is the problem, your fuel shut off is closed.

.

 

Are these in the banger tech? (I'm away on a laptop with slow access) - if not, happy to put them in the main banger tech thread...

 

I will get a pressure reading to find out what's going on. I do know that now my carbs are weeping a tiny bit of gas in the true stromberg fashion where the top attaches to the bowl, where as before they weren't.

I've also driven the car about 50 miles with this set up (25 miles one way, and 25 miles back) so maybe the carbs are starving more than they were without the pump, but maybe not.

I can also just try hooking up the hose without the 90s to see if that improves. Also making sure that the reproduction gas cap is venting is a good idea. I didn't think of that.

No filter in the tank or before the fuel filter inline.

...and yes. I have had icing problems in the summer time last year when driving on the highway for about 30 minutes. but this wouldn't be icing since it's happening consistently.

 

BANGER CRANK PULLEY BOLT TORQUE???

Maybe I already asked, but I need to know how much torque to put on the crank pulley bolt. I know what "not enough" feels and looks like (the pulley comes loose, the fan stops and then the pulley cracks).

So how about a torque number and do you use any loc-tite?

TIA

 

Crankshaft pulley nut 80ft.lbs.
I used loc-tite on mine
later Bill

 

well this project has been on my mind for a while now
FED with a b engine and a riley
so tonight i cleaned the garage, gathered some bolts and set up my table.
as is sits now i plan on a 96 inch wheel base
torsion bar front suspension using a crosley front axle and steering parts
the rear will be a solid mounted austin healy sprite axle
i have a b trans hooked up right now, but i'll probably go with a top loader or a 39 trans
so here is the first pic

thanks
tom

 

hi i have had problems in the past with the type of leads i was useing i now use plain old wire leads with a good insulated coating i found carbon types broke down on a banger motor

 

As long as we are trying to ID some heads can anyone tell me about this one???

 

I am in the same boat, I can't get around a few issues that you'd mentioned. Trying a couple of other ideas to see if I can get it worked out before a couple of cool event come my way and I'm not able take the roadster out.

 

I just helped trouble shoot a fuel problem last week with a similar pump,I think it is installed backwards. All I have to go on is your pic's but the input and outlet on the 4x4 rockcrawler pump is the opposite of your picture.

 

Timberbeast: there are two A trans and two tops- early AR 28 with multi disks, and the later style. Two tops - early with the emergency brake at the front and the later style with the e brake on the right side. There are other slight differences, but that's for the 400 point crowd!
97: maybe the filter is not allowing enough fuel through it. Those pumps are made to push, not pull. Maybe it is just pumping air. I would get the pump down so it is pushing fuel up to the carbs, and not draining the gas into the carbs after the car is shut off. It could also be the Johnson valve- better check it!

 

banger bump

 

Another easy step to try! My tank is cleaned and sealed. I put the fuel filter on per recommendation of the fuel pump manufacturer. I'll try pulling the filter and see if it helps with the flow. I does seem like it's not igniting.

 

Elrod-

Check that the vent hole in your fuel cap is open- If partially blocked, it can be a source of diminished fuel flow, even with a pump.

Herb Kephart

 

Here she goes for the first time!!!!!

But I tried to start her today and now she wont shut off. It has a one wire alt. Whats the deal? I had to just shut off the fuel pump and that killed it.

 

I noticed that the Taylor Engines website is gone. Does anyone know if they are still around. Thanks

 

It was there last week...
might be up dating it. It did look older