The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Jiminy, Feb 29, 2020.
if it works great !
I double checked that with the dial indicator, while I had the head off.
very good ......... you should be on your way
typically speaking, a dial indicator is not the preferred method for setting TDC.
can it be done, yes, but much more reliable to use a positive stop.
What is a "positive stop" John?
Do you have any ideas on how to do it with the head on? How about a nut with a long piece of safety wire?
Used a dial indicator one time and a positive stop to double check,found my cam gear dimple is spot on.I use one of those cheapie impulse tachometers to check the advance curve,sweet spot is one degree advance per 100 rpm..that what the model B distributor maps out to..
Did you set it to 0 at idle?
a positive stop is a device that stops the piston at TDC . normally done with head off , but a good shade tree mech can do most anything ! i have ............
I'm learning, slowly!
we all do ......... been at it for 60 yrs
Loosen the clamp that holds the cable housing at the carburetor and make sure the tension is off of it. That will make one creep closed
You boys out spinning your wheels...DAMN, it’s the only time a year I wish I still lived down South!
8” of wet heavy stuff yesterday...happy spring, eh?
Not to be a smart-a$$, just lazy from typing, but look at this posting, it explains it pretty well.
The problem with using a dial indicator is that if you do the math on a 2.125 rad circle and intersect a line just one one-thousandth of an inch from top you can be off by a couple degrees, assuming you get all the slop and play taken up in one direction.
I like your set up. I know you said you kinked the cable, but you tried slightly bending the solid part of the rod just under the knob? Sometimes that works.
Not much getting done on the bangers, super busy working. I bought a car I rode in 31 years ago. A friend bought it in '70 and restored the paint and interior. It's only had about 500 miles put on it since, parades and such. His wife had severe health issues (unfortunately)so he finally sold it to me.
Not a banger but I figured you guys would appreciate it.
After removing about an inch of dust...wish I had a "before" picture
@ironanddeals on Instagram has a decent looking ‘32 one right now for $75 shipped
Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Nice Grady...need to see more.
And the chuck box on a wagon?
crankshaft, your ipad used disappearing ink
Winduptoy-'31 Olds, pretty cool car. All original save for paint/interior.Very solid feeling. Purrs like a cat, lots of torque. Cool stromberg DXR-2 downdraft, first downdraft. Idle mixture is at the top, main jet is adjustable in the side. It really looks like updraft stuff moved around haha.
The sheepwagon is a restoration. He's done stagecoach and wagon restorations for museums etc, for years. I've joked with him about selling the Olds forever, just didn't figure it would be this way. He's happy to keep it in the family so to speak.
He did say if he caught wind of dual carbs and split manifolds he'd call the sherrif heheh
I'll get some better pics tonight
I fixed my choke cable problem. I used a left over brake hardware spring, bent to shape. The cable won’t move on it’s own anymore.
No set it at 5 degrees advance at idle speed of 500 rpm on cheapie tach..verified advance curve by holding throttle and checking tach at 1000 rpm,10 degrees advance,max advance at 24 degrees.,for giggles I went back ans set it by ear,hand advance till it ran really good at idle,backed it off a skosh..was within one degree of 'scientific' method
** i really like the sheep herders wagon !!!
very good fix . shade tree mechanics are still alive !!
Decided to drop the pan on the cheap engine I picked up prior to installing into my coupe.
The fella I bought it from had no history on it.
I saw it had 20 over pistons when I swapped the head for a 6.1 Snyders.
Fortunately, there wasn’t much sludge.
Before I throw it back on, might you take a peak and give me some advice?
This is supposed to be cheap, not a rebuild. Anything you might do before wrapping it back up?
Forgot to mention, found this article on replacing the gasket
And I plan on rebuilding the oil pump for good measure.
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