Technical ***March 2017 Banger Meet - The Luck of the 4 Banger***

I am going to get crap for saying this, but here it goes.
I am the laziest mechanic/machinist around, meaning, I don't follow all the blah blah blah procedures for how you are supposed to do something. Remove firing indicator pin, reverse, put in hole rotate until you find bump, blah blah blah.
The simplest way to see if your are on #1 is to take the plug out and hold your palm flat over the hole while having someone YOU TRUST bump the motor over. Do NOT stick your finger in the hole, this applies to more than just sparkplug holes, I'll let someone else explain that to you. Trust me, you will know when #1 is in compression stroke, don't try to hold it back, now bump it up to TDC. make the distributor line up with that wire and you are golden.

I learned this trick after watching a "motor builder" get a Chev V8 dist in for a Kid who took it out but didn't pay attention. He paid attention after that, after burning up a nice Holley carb.

John

 

That might be, @hotrodfil - are those rare?
Will have the smith at work fill it further, hoping for a 7:1 ration, but not if it worth a million.

 

Like John sez
No reason to over-complicate things...... I've been waiting for some time for someone to mention the old thumb over the spark plug hole technique.

Once you do get it running you could use a vacuum gauge to set the timing, mixture, etc..... to highest vacuum and drive it.

 

Took some better (or brigther at least!) pictures, when it landed on the welding table.



Keep 'em kruzin!
Dannerr

 

I know I have Top dead center, I am making sure where the rotor should be for firing number one. Again I picturing it with the part of the distributor nearest the carb as 6:00

 

OK, you have TDC, is it on compression stroke or transition EX to IN? At this point, you have nothing to lose by removing dist and rotating 180°.
As shown here, the rotor would be 4:30 ish position.
This is just an air pump with flammable liquid, air and fire. Assuming that mechanically they are timed somewhat in the proper sequence, it will do something.
Best of Luck, John

 

I still remember the day I learned that trick, I wasn't even in High School yet, dodge it was a long time ago.
The other way to do it by yourself is to remove plugs 2,3 and 4. Hit the starter, you'll know.
J

 

See? I knew it was probably something stupid. Like you said get my head out of the book and logic through it. The crank goes around twice to complete one cycle right? So the distributor makes one revolution for every two revolutions of the crank? I bet it IS set to fire on the exhaust stroke. Thanks.

 

Don't forget that the point cam is adjustable. You don't have to remove the distributor to set the rotor in the right spot. loosen the screw in the center of the point cam and you can rotate it until it is were you want it.

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Yes, that I know.
If I recall the Model B has a pin that keeps the body of the distributor from moving.

 

So, smithy will not weld that much, because he's got a thin rod. Bugger!
But he will clean it up for me, and weld a few spots and flaws in it... need to find a big rod later, I guess (that's what she said!).


Keep 'em kruzin!
Dannerr

 

Danner

You can stitch it with screw-in plugs

Do a Google Search ..... "metal stitching" If the casting is too week the head will crack it more.


I use "iron-tight" this is hot resin circulated under pressure and then close the exit ..... keeping the pump going then close in entrance. Turn off the pump. We even keep Bugatti blocks for sweating thru their shut castings.

I have used it to fix a lot of prewar stuff

Range Rover guys use it poured into the cooling system to cure head gaskets

 

No crap from me I use a pencil, eraser side down.


Sent from my Nexus 6P using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

I am sorry, but I wasn't clear enough (and for adding an "n" to ratio); the head seems ok, nothing that I am worried about.
But I was hoping to fill the combustion chambers to create my own high(er) comp-head - it was done to the one, I have in my tudor, when found on a swap meet (stock left, welded on the right):

I'll just have to keep looking for a blacksmith, who will take on that task.

 

Find a guy with a CNC mill. You can make your own head. First carve out the heads underside including the
Water passage openings ..... turn it over and mill the passages. Then make a finned top for the head. Next you can pin them together, seal them and and smile.

 

They are redoing the flooring on the other side of the wall on the right side of my desk, to have it ready for, when the 4-axis machine comes...
... but that's not pre-'47 parts, as required at the Rømø race.

 

How do they know? I've done several race cars that customers only had at best 2/3 of and you have to guess the rest. Many times people have come up checked the car and said "This is the only original one I have ever seen!" You just got to be good at it. A Degree in Art History helps and 56 years of doing this shit.

You just have to think some........

 

They might not - but I will, and winning by bending/breaking the rules is just cheating.

 

I understand ...... Your going to add NEW metal
I knew a guy with a 4 valve Two Cam head pattern for a T-Ford. He designed/built it as a kid. Making a new one would be cheating too?

I could never afford anything I wanted so I had to buy a broken one with stuff missing and make it.

I went to China to talk to them about getting the oldest car in Asia running. We had a big meeting at the museum. The Director said two me "Your going to use new parts?" Yes I said. It's an automobile it has more dimensions than just sitting there. It runs, makes noise, shakes..... Smells. And I asked him "Do you ever use the wonderful old wagons here?" "Yes" He said. And I asked "Is their value reduced because you don't have the original horse?" he told his staff to give this man anything he wants...... Sometimes the what you got to do to preserve history has few rules. OR IT SITS THERE SILENT...... NEVER TO RUN AGAIN!

Gravity isn't nice but it's the law

 

“Tradition is a guide and not a jailer.”

William Somerset Maugham

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Without people "flexing" the interpretation of the rules advancement in motorsports would be very slow.

Read about this guy:
Smokey Yunick

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Link to the April 2017 Banger Meet http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/april-2017-banger-meet-no-fooling.1056392/

 

Please remember there will ALWAYS be some old guy that can beat you without cheating.

It is actually "Traditional" that there are NO RULES. Otherwise NONE OF THIS SPEED STUFF WOULD EVER BEEN MADE IN THE FIRST PLACE!