The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Jiminy, Feb 28, 2017.
joe , just jealous as I don't have anything people want to see . good on you
I got a great picture of you!
If I could figure out how to post it I would!!!!!!!
I cant believe big steve cant post a pic. put it on your desktop (ez to find) then (on here) click upload a file then click on pic & your done ...................... or email to me & ill post it ............. other steve
Old school set up with Pontiac rods and Chevy pistons. We had reservations on the build that we acquired as it was a back up engine out of an old dirt car. We installed it knowing it wouldn't last. It didn't last long. Cause of failure: Over enthusiasm.
Checking in also.
Is this the red engine from the little yellow pickup?
Now I'm (JEALOUS!)
Love the car! Award was well deserved.
So Show off and lift the hood already!
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The original one. The one in it now is a much better foundation for the Rutherford head.
Lol...This was taken by someone (I don't know who?) during the T.R.O.G. WEST tech. inspection. It's a Diamond B with a Cragar 4 port cross flow head, dual 97's, long tubed headers (Full oil pressure) and a 39 trans. an early 201/V8 Halibrand, Culver City Ca. QC rear end. closed/torque tube! (Too much to list!)
Thanks for sharing. Thats a killer set up man.
I guess my appeal fell on deaf eyes. I am still here but without post updates.
I have seen others with two piece racing cranks for any years. Always sad.
Somewhere I have a cam one friend broke it almost looked correct till you really looked at it. Used it as an office doorstop after I put the Bugatti blower back on the T57.
Keep at it you guys!
Breaking at the last weak point before the flywheel. You are definitely at the limit !! Over enthusiastic for sure. Nice symmetrical break, too. This must have run well while it lasted!
Yes Cranks break........
Have you guys crack tested the front end parts?
Does the crank show any signs of being cracked before, like discoloration?
It has been a few years since I looked at the crank, but from what I remember There wasn't any discoloration like a crack had been there and oxidized. But it did look like a crack started and worked its way into a larger crack until it finally broke. Elapsed time unknown. We did have the crank Magnifluxed before the engine was put in the truck. No cracks at that time.
Theres one over in the Model A swap meet on the Fordbarn this morning. Ansen single downdraft
Here you go!
Any of your 4 banger guys want to take a guess at what this giant fabricated 4 cylinder header/intake would have been off of? That's an A steering wheel next to it, for scale. It's huge. I bought it for a wall hanger but I'd really like to know what it was built for.
I know these threads are more geared toward Model A/B engines but I'm curious and thought someone here might know it. I have no idea and neither did the guy I got it from.
Looks like it's for a flathead 6 cylinder to me.
Dan, what size is that oil hole drilled ? Looks pretty big from here. Bummer ! Just hate it when that happens ! I'm looking for a good A crank that doesn't cost an arm or leg and ain't cracked. Talked to a guy a few years back that said they had a whole stack of good standard A cranks but I lost touch and he and his brother have sold the car.
I never even thought of that, but I bet you're right, something that has siamesed exhaust ports on the inside cylinders. Makes sense out of the 3 port intake.
I agree Hole was drilled too big. If I remember correctly, it was @ 1/4". I think it was a contributor to the failure.
I may have a good A crank lying around. I'll look. You want standard mains and rod journals?
Anyone out there have a drilled model B scat crank they want to part with ?
Why, can't you buy one from Scat?
Been waiting for months running out of time talked with a few people today and they said scat is tough to get b cranks from
My POS made it into a magazine!!
Oh crap, maybe should have read article before posting..........
Depending on what your build is, it might be better to us a Counterweighted original "B" crank.
You need a positive method of keeping the Main Caps located. Especially the rear.
The crank's radii can't be bumped or scratched and must be blended carefully by the grinder......
I hate to say it but a custom crank is a lot cheaper than a broken motor like Dan's photos.
On my little crap I often spend thousands on stuff to keep them alive. You Ford A guys are lucky that you can get good stuff easily. Some of my projects are just so rare I must have everything custom made just to get 50HP.
But when you get it done right it is soooooooo cooooool and runs so f'n hard
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