The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Jiminy, Mar 1, 2015.
Thanks 62 pan, On here I go by 4-port Riley, but I don't go on every day.
Yesterday, against my better judgement, I out the Cabriolet and went to a local MAFCA gathering that the local club has every spring... a 'safety check' in advance of summer touring that the club does. All the members stay pretty much in the 'stock only' box and I stay pretty much outside that box.
I met a new member to their club and the photos tell some of the story of his car. He drives it alot.
After introductions were made we found out that we are 'neighbors'. That is what those of us who live in the area of the mountain country call each other. Being like minded, with choice of modifications to cars along with the place to live where the neighbors are far enough away to leave you alone, we raced one another home. We got to run up old US Rt. 66 east through Tijeras canyon. Had a blast and look forward to more... and I am more than ready for spring
Spent the better part of two days this past week polishing and waxing Dad's Coupe:
Nice engine mods: They look like what I want to do. Would you do anything differently if you could?
View attachment 2859112
View attachment 2859115
In an impromptu moment I put my body on the chassis and a few hours later I took my first test drive. I remembered why I love these cars so much. They are not easy but it is fun to find simple solutions to complex problems.
Sorry, I can't answer to that directly as this is the car of someone I just met.
I know that he has a diamond B block that is set up for pressure oiling. The oil pump is set up with the 'well capped'. He drilled the counterbalanced crank. It is inserted mains and rods, 283 pistons, police head with a single holly 94.
He has a torque tube installed volvo OD unit with electric shift.
One of the features that I really liked is that he stayed 6V and wanted a tach. He modified a MG tach with a mechanical drive to the tach. Cool stuff.
His oil pump is also modified for pressure by closing up the stock side inlet and drilling the bottom cover plate placing the oil inlet there. More on that to come.
He has his oil pressure regulator in the oil filter housing, dumping the excess oil into the timing gear cover
I'll be getting together with him later in the week and ask him what he'd do different other than build more HP.
We ran nose to nose and I have no OD and I'm running an A engine, inserted and still stock oiling. We are both running lightened flywheels.
I want a syncro box and it is in the works
Ck ARP - I use ARP head studs w/Serr Miller Head. Also use their fasteners for flywheel, clutch pressure plate, etc.
Snyders sells a set of studs made from 8740 CM with nuts for quite a bit less. I also use ARP for flywheel bolts and rod nuts but since, I don't think, anyone makes a set for an A or B flathead buying ARP individually is cost prohibitive so I use those from Snyders
I use ARP head studs
Couldn't leave well enough alone. Trying to get it all buttoned up before the Billitproof show at Don Garlits this Sat.
When I priced the studs individually from the ARP catalog they were $12 or more so when I came across the set from Snyders made from the same material priced at $39.95 I decided to use them. I actually think that is overkill IMO
Here it is safe at home awaiting installation. Suppose to be yellow so next question is what colour yellow?
Nice ! Ask gwhite, looks like he painted his. I'm going to paint mine the same. The one I have has the standard combustion chamber. My "Crowsfoot" is painted red and is stamped 7 but has been milled and filled.
Yessir, I mixed up a yellow that I liked from a 1930's Sherwin Williams color card (thought it looked vintage). Come to find out, it's pretty close to Duplicolor "Daytona Yellow" engine paint, hahaha.
Wow that does look nice. Also noticed the F in the corner, never saw that mark before. Jim Brierley told me paint was close to saftey yellow, Yapp says school bus yellow, I went with Rustoleum Sunburst yellow 7747.
I was going to question the "F" as well.
The last 6:1 I picked up has an M there. Was wondering about that as well. Under many layers of paint was a small bit of what would appear to be the original yellow. I'll post a picture this weekend.
Well, golly gee, I'll have to go and look at mine
Im in need of a Model b 1932 waterpump, anyone have a rusted one they could part with and help get over the sea?
Also, does the model T waterpumps line up on the model A/B blocks?
My German head im going to run on the touring motor:
Kjell, all but the first 2500 Model T's did not use a water pump from the factory...the T cooling system relies on "thermosiphon" (the cyclical movement of heated & cooled water).
Aftermarket T water pumps can be adapted to fit the inlet on the side of the block...you'd have to fab a bracket to support the pulley and block off the water pump provision in the head, but it's doable. Another option would be a late 30's - early 40's Nash water pump and generator (Nash generators had an output shaft that drove the water pump.
thx for a quick and good reply!
The T pump is for a OHV project im working on
This is a cheaper alternative then the Nash generator. Mid 60's early 70's MG gen with tach drive. Remove the 90 deg. drive housing and there is a drive spud to run a water pump with.
that looks like a good way to get a tack in the old ford atleast! hehe
You can always go with a electric water pump they are small light and will fit where you need them
No, you simply can not put more modern shit than you need in a model A
sorry for the typo, english is not my first language, and i have some problems with spelling anyways. you got the point anyways!
You don't need to apologize to me. I did know what you meant but I thought to help you out with your English spelling.
I thought it was tacho or was that tacky??
Separate names with a comma.