You can change the head gasket or put half a bottle of Bar's leaks in it. I'd try the Bar's leaks first. .
I put Soluable oil in my water tank. With water at about the same ratio as in the coolent tank on the lathe. Looks the same anyway. Seems to keep the water jackets very clean. And I'm not really worried about freezing. Maybe you could put some in your water. Might leak but it shouldn't rust.
It's a long time since I used Bars Leaks, but remember that the contents in a glass jar used to be soluble oil!! Plus some pellets...
I found some 32 brakes for my car. The drums have only been turned .020 so there is lots of meat left. Next I have to order some kits from flat head Ted.
OK I am look-in to shorten the life of my banger I have a B cam in the A now. I have a new regrind cam from Jim Brierley Winfield A1 (I think that's the name of the cam) For my B but I cant weight to get the B engine done. I wont a bigger cam in my A.... NOW I plain On running two carbs (I am cheep so I will use my 94s) The problem is that I still have stock valves. Is this too much cam for the engine as it sits? .06 over bore cleaned up the ports and 7-1ish head. I know I wont get the most out of the cam. I just don't know if I would get a little more power with a little smaller cam??? (3-4 weeks to get a new cam ) I have a fun little drag race in sept. up in mass. Its only 1/16 of a mile but it is going to have a Banger class so I have to go and play. The plain is use my lighter fly wheel new header and a twin carb intake and a cam but what cam? I am thinking of making a bigger OD lifters for the intake side to keep the valve open a little longer. My thinking it will help with the small valve stay open longer to get more air in. Yes I had a long boring day at work standing in front of a CNC and had way too much time to think about my car.
Just wanted to give some proper respect to Bill, BCChopit. Here are the parts he's made for me, freshly plated with nickel. Also, BCChopit, if you want to sell that 32 d-shaft and torque tube, let me know. Click to enlarge.
If I had the complete rear end I would use the 32 axle housings and weld a spring perch on top like an "A", otherwise, you will probably have to relieve the backing plates where the "A" radius rods attach. I could be wrong as I had to reverse my radius rods to bolt up the Kiwi QC . I haven't tried it with the radius rods in the stock position. But you will have to extend the brake operating shaft 1" and possibly have to relieve the radius rod so the operating shaft can clear. As I wrote before you will probably have to tweak the angle of the operating lever. I found all of this the hard way! You think "Boy, now it will work, but oh sh-t, something else rubs"
If I remember you showed photos of new rear drums from Mel Gross. Why did you decide on 32 brakes now instead of the A's? Just curious.
^^^^^ " Why did you decide on 32 brakes now instead of the A's? Just curious. " Because I am a dumb ass It all started with real nice set of 35 brakes I got real cheap. I like the WIDE FIVE wheels and you need the 12" drums to run them. If I do all this work I can run any ford wheel. Plus I am hoping to get a little more braking with the 35s up front 1" on the OD and the shoe is like 1/4" wider. I will rebuild My A stuff and sell the hole deal as a package or keep it for the speedster I have in my head
anyone got a stock heavy 32 axle and spring perchs spare it would bring the hight on the tee down just right?
looking for some help hopefully someone has the answer. I have a gemsa reground A cam turned down to fit in a T block. YOu have to groove the cam bores to get it in. All it says is TxA full race on the tag. I have no cam specs on it. Does anyone have or know what the cam specs are on a gemsa full race txa cam. I'd like an idea of where to install it so i dont have to put it in and try it blind.
Goodie time, Winfield cam, B block, wico mag, c heads, late trans, 32 axle, T spring.... List goes on
one more thing i see speedway sells a harmonic balancer for flathead v8's will that bolt directly onto a model A or B crank with no mod
put it all together of course! I havent had a banger in a few years, this will be a good start.... I let loose of a supercharged single seater similar to yours a couple years ago without terrorizing washington streets
OK, Banger guys, here's another noob question. I bought my car with the information that it had a 'rebuilt' engine. The po had never started the engine but said that it was sold to him under that premise. He said that the gaskets looked new, so that appeared to be the case. I wanted a model A so badly that I didn't have a second thought about it. Anyhow, I got around to taking the the manifolds off today and having a closer look at the engine. It obviously is not a rebuilt engine. The gaskets aren't new, there was some red, sweet smelling shit running down the engine from the intake ports after I removed the intake manifold. No idea what that is, maybe old gas? I took out the spark plugs and saw that the valves and what I can see of the surround is black, so the engine has been running at some point and not in a rebuilt state. So my question is, what do I do now? I could (1) try to start it up as is (2) check the compression, take the head off and check the cylinders then try to start (3) drop the pan and see if things look copasetic there and then try a start or (4) do what you experts think is the right thing to do. Not that it matters that much, but it turns over great! No weird noises or anything. Is it worth the chance just to see if the thing starts and go from there? Oh yeah, I can't pull the engine now, so that's not an option till I can get it to my barn where there's a beam I can use with a chain hoist. Thanks for any thoughts.
Rmak- In 58 years of mucking about with Ford A's and B's--and also Chevy 4's, I NEVER bought an engine that wasn't "just rebuilt" It's part of the pre-sale bullshit. Herb
Ha, ha. Thanks Herb. I guess I should have known better. I think the guy who sold it to me was just passing along the information. I still think I got a good deal and I think the engine is going to start.
rmak, Change the oil, pull pan if you like and clean. Do a compression check. (quick and easy to do) Try to start it up. If you just want to get it running, I won't pull the head at this point unless your compression is bad. Good luck!
Always pull the pan, you never know what you'll find or need to clean out. They seem to always have stuff in them.-Weeks
Nice haul !!!!! Those are some tasty vittles. If you don't have plans for that 3 pot intake, I'd like to talk to you about a transfer of ownership.
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