I just saw that last week I will go back an see if I can find it when I get home. It was the back only and the cly. Was were the brake arm goes the guy still use the stock e brake
"I'm trying to find is info on putting in a juice cylinder in a model backing plate." Original 30 rear brakes modified. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=563829&highlight=model+stock+backing+plates
The problem I've always had with the stock A brakes on a hot rod has been with the Steel stock drums. The stock A drums are stamped steel. They do not dissipate heat as well as cast iron. When you hot rod an A and go faster, put larger wheels and tires, and better speed components on an otherwise stock A chassis, you are asking a lot of the brakes. The stock steel drums can't keep up with the needs of these new requirements and will build too much heat. The brakes fill fade and you will loose the brakes. In my book, the changes needed to go to later style cast iron drums are well worth it. My $0.02. ....
Wow that's awesome! I like how I can keep the mechanical lines, simple and really clean too. I'll start looking into pricing some cylinders! So would this mean I could control all fours with the hand brake?
There is a supplier for cast iron brake drums for the model A: http://fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=31138&highlight=cast .
My A is in the shop putting them on now they look real nice to me. I just don't like the wight. The little banger will feel them for shore. It would be nice to do a dyno test before and after but I don't have the cash. The old cast one had large holes like the 32.
If you're looking for a good waterpump go to Snyder's. They have a leakless and greaseless pump (A-8503) that looks completely stock with a 1 year warranty for $125. BEST of all it's made in the USA by RMJ International (www.rmjinternational.net) near Cleveland, Ohio! I've had mine for over 2 years and 10,000 miles with NO problems.
Thanks for the link. The A8501 on RMJ's website looks like it might be a winner. Dual sealed bearings, SS shaft and a modern ceramic seal. (I'm guessing it's what Snyders lists as the A-8503.)
One of the reasons for the end play in the water pumps is the worn part of the head. The old heads had a back stop that was cast in the head to keep the pump shaft from moving from front to back. That part of the head is usually worn out after seventy some years. I installed shaft collars on the pump to help stop the movement. McMaster Carr sells them. I bought the two piece stile so the pump shaft did not have to be removed from the pump. The other reason for the shaft movement is a bent pulley on the crank, generator or pump.
Keith got here before me with info on the Volvo M40 --third is a VERY useful ratio between 2 and 4, and you will notice that 1 and 2 are near the same as stock A ratios. Volvo trannys have a brass tag underneath the rear with model # Other Volvo 4 speed transmissions from years back are- M4- first 4 speed. synchros good for abt. 85K miles- then parts go through gears- not likely that you will find one of these that hasn't destroyed itself. M41-- M40 with Laylock O/D--.797:1 when used with B20 engine, .756:1 with B18 engine M45-- next iteration of above, main difference being tapered rolled brgs (as opposed to straight) on countershaft Ratios-3.71:1, 2;16:1, 1.37:1, 1:1 3.68 reverse M46 above with .797:1 Laylock Gear oil in 40-41, ATF in 45-46 Reported that Brits put 225 HP through these boxes (but at what RPM?) Transmissions came with stick out of top of box (normal) or set back 14-16" on transmission top for P1800 Sports coupe (NOT 544 Sport). Also it is reported that there was a top for column shift, that likely never came over here. Herb Kephart
Herb, all good info thanks, I would have liked an M41, but they seem to be like hens teeth these days. Keith
I've used several of these gearboxes with several engines in front. The work well and will take a lot of HP and revs ... I prefer the later boxes they are even stronger and the remote shifty can be modified to go atop the box. If you remove the O/D safety switches you have an overdrive in every gear given very useful gear splits.
I have a quick question, wondering if anyone can tell me the thickness of the mounting flange on an Ansen model A intake. I have one on order and I want to make sure I get the right size/length studs to bolt up the header/intake. Thanks, Shaun
I was playing with the brakes on my A today. I got a real nice set of 35 brakes all rebuilt but then the guy went juice. The fronts bolt wright up I just need a new push rod for the brakes. Has anyone up graded the rears with 12" brakes. If this all works out my stock A brakes and new cast drums will be up for sale
I have 32 brakes all the way around and the big problem with the rears is the "A" radius rods. You have to relieve the rear backing plates or reattach the radius rods on the axle housing.
I pulled the rears off and it looks like the I will loose the e brake and the radius rods need to moved. I don't think it will be worth the effort Bill can you post some picks of your rear set up I think the the 35s are different as for the fronts I need to made a cup on the rod for the end every thing is so new the brake shoes need to be fit to the drums
That is way is in the shop...Brakes / T -spring / and a lighter fly wheel. my fly wheel now has the lip cut off and a V-8 clutch. I think I cut 28 pounded off my new one ???? I did cut it up over a year a go I put over 4000 miles on the old girl last summer it need some tlc before the weather gets nice I need to replace 2 of the shocks again...5 shocks in 4 years how long do most of these shocks last? Am I just having bad luck?
The 32's use the service brake as the parking brake so I welded an arm to the service brake cross shaft and plan to connect the E brake handle to this arm with a piece of cable or chain . I don't have any photos but I think I extended the brake operating shaft 1" then reinstalled the lever with a slight tweaking for alignment.
Is the brake operating shaft on a 32 at a angle like the 35 the pull will not be in line with the stock linkage
I picked up an advanced copy of the May 2011 Hot Rod DeLuxe at the Hot Rod and Restoration show in Indy. As always, this issue of Hot Rod DeLuxe, billed as "Model A Special" is HAMBer porn. One article is about a "kit" from Miller Hi-Speed Heads that adapts a S10 T5 with a FWD tail shaft housing to 28-34 Ford four bangers. The kit includes a new bell housing with a socket for the Model A front wishbone. The kit also includes an adapter that lets you retain the closed drive line. The stock torque tube is cut 9.5" and the drive shaft is shortened by machining a new taper at the pinion end. The article also stated a V8 torque tube adapter is also available. The torque tube adapters are made by Dan Bridges at Aggressive Engineering. The article did not include pricing information. Miller Hi-Speed Heads has a web site but this particular kit is not listed. http://millerhi-speedheads.com/ If this has tickled your interest the May 2011 Hot Rod DeLuxe should be on the news stands in a few days. _________
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