before this thread gets too heavy into the why and why not debate on running one, i have a question i couldn't find an answer to. again, i don't know why i'm even asking as i'm not seriously considering a manual valve body. i'm just making compromises in my head. you know, clutch linkage, third pedal, kick down linkage with multi carb intake, vacuum source, unsightly garbage ruining the view of a beautiful engine....it might be a way to simplify things. what converter would you use with one? i know a lot of you are going to ask about the engine and where it makes it's power and get into 60 ft. times. would it make a difference running a stall of a few hundred over stock like 2000 rpm or something in a street fighter range of 3500 rpm? will one provide harsher upshifts? providing the trans is built to allow for engine braking, how does downshifting the trans feel like with the above two options in stall ratings? i know the higher the stall, the more heat it's going to build. but 3500 should live on the street, after all, it's called a street fighter. what about 100-120 mile highway trips? would it be foolish to consider running a 2000 stall with the manual valve body? anything else i'm over looking here? i know, my question turned into thirty. consider the car a small 2200 lb with an engine making 275-300 hp. 3.70 gear with 28.5 inch towel city cheaters
I switch my converter into low stall after I get moving, when I'm driving on the street....oh, you don't plan on having a switch pitch torque converter? but to sort of answer your question, running a manual valve body really doesn't make much difference as far as how the converter works. It just means you have to shift the transmission when you drive. A light car with a relatively small engine will probably be fine with a 3500 converter, assuming you put appropriate rear gearing in it. Light car, smaller engine, more rear gear, all mean less converter slipping, and less heat. the drag week guys generally run at least 3500 stall, and drive a couple hundred miles a day, then go very quick on the drag strip. Usually with a manual valve body transmission.
Think your over thinking it, maybe. Stall speed? I'd think the engine and the weight of the car would dictate there. The original Honda Civic had an optional 2 speed semi-automatic. Then there was the VW sort of automatic with their electric clutch. It's just another way to shift gears. I think a light weight little car with a push button torqueflite could be plenty of fun. Just my 2 cents. -Dave
i have a friend who just loves them switch pitch trans. i'm stuck with a C4 since i have the adapter to the Y block already. i know, no apologies needed.
i have a 3.70 gear for the 9" of course another friend really needs to get rid of a 35 spline dana 60 with 9" style axles with a spool and 4.56 or was it 5.13 gearing. what's it like running a spool on the street?
If I'm racing with an auto, manual valve body with brake is a must, along with stall converter and good shifter. No to the spool on the street, but i did it for years. Can't turn in parking lots!
There are ways to tailor the shift attributes, but converter, gears, weight and HP all weigh into it. I have a C4 in the '31 (about 2600 lbs) with a 2200 stall converter, shift kit, stock 5.0L HO and (now) 3.25's. With the 3.89's it launched REALLY hard and shifted very crisply. The 3.25's calmed it down a smidge, but I really can't see any reason for more stall unless I can fit more tire under it (I can't). I will be going manual shift in the '32 but that is another animal. 545, C6, 3000 stall converter, 3.89's and a spool. It'll flash stall way higher than 3K with this engine where it wouldn't with less HP. I wouldn't go manual shift unless you have to. Dropping it in "D" and enjoying it might make you happier than HAVING to shift it all the time.
I've put 20k miles on my Chevy II with a full manual valve body. Shifting is not a big deal. Sent from my Trimline
I agree with Mr T body ^^. The trans (TH350) in my '48 Austin was full manual when I got it and it was miserable to try to drive it normally on the street. Downshifting to go around corners without stopping completely locked up the rear tires every time. I changed to a shift kit that allows you to hold it in first gear but still put it in Drive for normal driving, way better. It weighs about 2400 lbs, has a 355"sbc, 3.90 gears and 11.50x16 M&Hs.
A few years back, I ran an 1800 stall speed converter in a manual shift T-700-R4 in a 67 Chevy II for about 5 years. While I hated the trans., I really liked the option of starting in any gear I wanted to. Around town with the TOO big an rpm change (drop) between 1st and 2nd, I normally started (stop signs/signals) in second gear. Years back, I also had a manual shift T-400, switch pitch combination in a 409 powered 61 Impala. I had an "on-off" button on the shifter base to control the converter. I owned that car also for 5 or 6 years. I really liked the control of the manual shift automatic (!). The current automatic trans. cars I'm working on "would be" manual shift, but I've been advised from the builders (2) that a manual shift T-200-4R is not a good idea on the street. A race prepped T-200, no problem, but not the 4spd. version. Mike
stall and MVB are two separate discussions. stall is about motor, rear gears and where you want the power to work. MVB is almost completely useless on a mostly street driven car. and as someone who daily drove one for 10 years i am totally planning on doing it again. just make sure you use a shifter that's friendly to that amount of rowing.
I have a 2800 stall and manual valve body in my powerglide on the street with 3:73 gears No problems at all up shift down shift it works good for me
Rick I have a 700r4 full manual. Been driving it about 2 years. The down shift is hard so I leave it in3 rd and down shift when I stop. I have a gate shifter and it is positive on the gear change. If you would like I'll come by and take you for a ride if you want. O T car just let me know. Jim
As Jim said way back there, you just have to shift the trans by hand. from my experience with my ot rig that has an issue that caused it to have to be shifted manually (screwed up anti lock brake sensor) the main thing you have to remember is to remember to shift. Helps if your car is loud as mine is quiet and it is spooky to look down at the tach and see it on 6K because you didn't shift. I finally fixed that issue friday and it is a whole different car but I still keep manually shifting it when I forget it will now do it on it's own I guess you could put a clutch pedal in with a really strong return spring to make manual shifting more authentic.
Engine and trans; or I did't catch it? Light car, mild gears in the rear, mild stall, and full manual valve body. P-O-W-E-R-G-L-I-D-E; easy to build, parts are fairly cheap, lightweight, and you can make a full manual valve body just by using a 1/4" diameter, and 1/4" long, piece of copper tubing used to block the 1-2 shift valve open. Chevrolet even made a full manual "Powerglide", they called it a "Torque-Drive", in 69-70; they were used in some Nova's and Camaro's with six or four cylinder engines. The nephews 51 Chevrolet Business Coupe "Street Gasser" used one of my built aluminum Powerglides; 2500 stall converter, 5 pack direct clutch, deleted all the wavy steels, and a manual valve body. HARD shifts; the whole car would jerk and lerch with shifts. Only 2 forward gears is a little boring on the street, but still fun with the 4.88 gears it had. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
I built this Coupe 30 years ago, 388 CID, full manual Powerglide, 4800 rpm convertor, 3.50 gears, weighed 1960 lbs. Drove it on the streets and interstates nearly 40,000 miles in just 7 years... no issues. Still have the car, undergoing it's 3rd makeover right now.
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