Putting a 250 in the 50 Styleline. Already have front discs. My question is about the firewall mounted master I wanted for ease of install and access. Just in trying to mockup the booster will be in the way. Who makes a pedal assy for this, or what is a good junk yard swap as I am on a major budget for this build. Edit. Guess I meant to say the master will clear the intake by itself, but not with the booster. A one inch master should be enough to stop the car without power behind it. Any thoughts or don't do's on what I am planning
I used a pedal assy from a downsized 'A' body (78 Cutlass). Booster and all. Used the subframe, too. BRACE THE FIREWALL!!!! You WILL have a spongy pedal if you do not, and you WILL crack the firewall. I used two angle irons (thick), from top of cowl to first break in toeboard, bolted top and bottom. I did NOT try it without, I knew better. Also, connect the pedal to the dashboard. This is really not optional. Then again, it's your car, just don't drive near me. Sorry to be harsh, I'm old and curmudgeonly. And still alive. Cosmo
At the shop, non-custom stuff doesn't sell, so I can't spend time adapting infrastructure parts. I use the assembly from Walton Fabrication. They are exceptionally well made, and fit perfectly, on the first try.
Cosmo, I appreciate the harshness as much as I do safety. Gimpy, I looked at Walton's and couldn't find one without the booster. What I did find showed the power setup without the booster and an adapter for the master by itself which made it a little long for what I need.
I'll check when I get home, as I am on the road. The pedal arm is drilled for manual and power ratios.
Put a power booster under the floor you will be glad you did. My cousin has one on his 50 chevy and works great. As far as access after your all setup you really won't spend much time needing access. More room under car than you think.
I used the corvette master & 7" booster. Bought the universal under dash bracket pedal assembly from Speedway motors. I welded in a lot of bracing to keep the firewall from flexing. Speedway kit with booster is about $200.
my last truck ('53 gmc) I used a 70's dodge van assembly mounted on the inside. worked well. remote reservoir. I am using Kugel's also inside (reinforced) firewall. with the '35 truck. other vehicles I've built a frame inside 1x2 tube connected to main body frame, brackets on top
I too have used the Walton Fab kit Gimpy is talking about. Very good stuff, but my client wanted power brakes, so that's what we went with. 'Tis a mystery to me why you would want power brakes on any thing smaller than a 3/4 ton truck, but that's me. I personally would NEVER EVER consider a below floor mount master cylinder again unless I am 100% pushed by a client to do so. The old axiom "out of sight, out of mind" is painfully true and almost cost me the Plymouth years ago before I moved the master to the firewall. Depending on what you run for brakes, if you are going disc/drum, grab a m/c for a '74 Ford Maverick, non power disc/drum. They work very well on 2700 - 3100 lbs cars with fairly standard G.M. type discs up front, and the typical 10" drum out back.
Gimpy can that be adapted to the 50 pontiac as well as I might have a underside clearance problem with the reclipping and headers from a v-8 and the factory one is forward of the firewall but under the steering shaft and would beading the firewall help make it stronger if I ran vertical 1/2 rounds on both side of the master from toe board to cowl lip ??
I am trying to find a good picture of a Pontiac firewall, where the master, or booster would be. The Chevrolet one replaces the access plate where the voltage regulator customarily is. It is the hole above the steering column: I am unsure what the Pontiac looks like there.
well for the moment the whole thing is flat as someone ( no me ) put a peice of sheetmetal over it and treid to smooth it that way , the sheet has to come out as they covered up the data tag on the right side and left the old wall in place and I am going to have to remove all the old firewall and rehang the flat sheet . I can upload a picture of what is there on the engine side right now . give me a few minutes as I have to transfer it out of the file to make it a photobucket file
this is inside see the extra that has to bee trimed and the acess hole in the floor , this is the drivers side firewall as it sits
I am going to seal off the vent hole as its not needed anymore , also by chance does anyone make the female plug for the turnsignals ??
It looks like your steering column attaches to the dashboard a little differently from the Chevy. The pedal brackets attach there, too. It would be simple enough to make a little adapter. If you could get all of the pedal bracketry set up under the dash, you could then make the marks to transfer the holes to the firewall, using the supplied plate, as a template. Or even install the whole plate as a reinforcement. A few pictures in this thread show the setup in the Chevy, showing where the mounting holes in the firewall would need to be: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=598172
thanks Gimpy , as you see I have alot of undoing by the P.O. before I can redo it right and I want to get the systems in place when I do it so it gets done once and looks good too .
The Walton stuff is, frankly, astonishing. For the exact applications, the parts are cut, drilled and fit so well, that they require no "adjustment" of any kind. They just fit, and work. In this day and age where "fits" means it can be made to fit with some effort, this not very common.
Trying to get used to my new phone. Can't load pics yet, but this all some good info. C-10 that's exactly what I need now to get it put in the budget. Also if anyone has pics of how they re-enfoced it would be great. Gympy ,thanks for all the input.
Maybe, but make sure you have at least 6-1 pedal ratio and even then you're going to need strong legs. I used a 7/8" on the last 4 manual disc cars I built and had good results. You'll need at least 4" travel available at the pedal with a 6-1 ratio for a 7/8". I just use an adjustable push rod to get it where I like it.
Leg strength shouldn't be an for me or the wife. Gotta brag on her cause beat kids half her age in leg press contest a couple of years ago at the local college. Also sounds like Walton figured out the physics already. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Got pics to load. Not enough room for booster when air cleaner will be installed Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
In my 51 chevy... I used the booster, master cylinder, proportioning valve, all of the brake pedal and bracket parts from a 1986 Pontiac brougham....I have disc fronts and drum rear for the brakes....and as said early put rods/bars etc for bracing between the firewall and dash....I also used the same parts but from a 1977 olds Cutless and put that in a 51 chevy sedan delivery....It has been awhile since I did it but I think I had to bend the pedal to fit around the steering column.....miller
Thanks Gimpy for the complement... means a lot to us here at Walton Fabrication. I only offer quality parts through out e-commerce store.