Technical Making head room in a heavily chopped coupe

So, I've been working on putting the body together on my 30 A this winter.
I'm working it over a 32 frame, so I've channeled it slightly over the frame, about 3/4".

Once I have everything together and square, I intend to chop pretty heavily. I'm shooting for a competition look, which I understand is not terribly practical, but its what I like and I don't really want to compromise the look. (see the attached photos of the Green Grenade, and a couple others that stand out for me personally).

Anyway, I mocked up a seat and am beginning to understand how little headroom there is in a chopped A. I'm 5'10, so not too tall, but I'm also over 40, and I'm a bit concerned that I will be too uncomfortable to drive.

So my question: The 32 frame is pretty darn deep. It may be a crazy thought, but has anyone ran only 90 degree cross-members, like you might using an A frame (think F1 crossmember), and then set the floor pans at the bottom of the frame. It seems like this would allow for a few more inches of seat riser, so that the driver's legs would be bent and therefore more "ergonomic" for lack of a better phrase....

Thoughts or examples?

 

There is a T built by Thunderbirdesq that I think he sunk the floor lower into the space of the frame. Might look at that for some ideas.

 

Im in the process of fabricating a subrsil structure with 2 seat pad pans that will mount to the center of a model a frame. Essentiall putting your but below the top of the frame but above the bottom. Car is a 27 t on an a frame. The owner I just under 6 ' tall an will fit under the chopped roadster roof fine. I think the saying is 10 pounds of shit in a 5 pound bag


Your idea is sound. The bitch is setting up the petals at the toe board so your legs are in a semi comfortable position.

 

You will have the drivE shaft tunnel to contend with if you go that route. Do you have a big ass? Tunnel will eat up some interior room.good luck either way.

 

Metalshapes has a roadster that has the floor attached to the bottom of the frame more unibody style. The Vicky 30-31 has recessed floor pans too.
It's a lot of work that most guys don't bother to do.

Also here's a little secret. Loud pedal's green grenade has what he coined as "anti section".
You know how you channeled yours 3/4"? He added a section to increase the height between the floor and the body side bead. I did the same thing as well as drop my floor pans. There's 44" from roof to floor in my car, same as my DD full size truck.

 

Having put right around 200K on a chopped truck I'd suggest getting a ride in a hard chopped coupe similar to yours before going overboard on the chop. It isn't all about just your head clear the top or headliner you have to be abl. e to see out and have to be able to see traffic lights somewhat. Even with just a 4 inch chop and a lowered seat hitting a lot of traffic lights in my truck puts a hell of a crick in my neck.

 

I think it was voodoo larry that sectioned his 32 rails to gain some more room

 

Super cool to know I'm not entirely insane. Or at least my insanity is shared by others

You know, I'd give my left nut to see Kris' build photos (if they exist) of the Green Grenade's "anti-sectioning". I've read about it for years, but have never seen the exact details. Adding depth to the cowl, door panels, and quarters is likely beyond my current skill level.

My thought would be something similar to what you guys have/are doing, adding some structure to the subrails, such that the body, complete with subrails, can still be removed from the frame. I'm a big fan of quick tear downs.

 

This is a point well taken, honestly, and I'm sure my thoughts are clouded by enthusiasm. I don't even know anyone with one at this point. Maybe a six pack or two will land me in the passenger seat a couple times before I commit.

That said, even if its not comfortable to drive, it sure would be fun to look at sitting in the garage.

 

I haven't given a thought to the pedals yet.

Do either of you have photos of your subrails?

 

I couldn't find build pics from loud pedal either.
But here's some anti section of mine
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=6460782&postcount=90

Here's metal shapes
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=331971

 

True but I know all too many guys who built their rods so radical that they don't actually enjoy driving them. Sometimes it's an engine that is so honked up that the car isn't drivable on the street and just as often it is a chop or other wild modification that makes the car or truck so damned uncomfortable to drive that it never leaves the garage and gets driven. I'd rather see a less radical chop and see shots of you and your car headed to far flung rod trots than see a radical chopped coupe that never gets driven except on an off the trailer and from the trailer to the parking spot at a rod trot. That is fine if you want to be a trailer rodder rather than a drive it rodder.

 

I will post pics this week with the components installed. I don't see the need to get too radical in making headroom with a model a. I drove 5" chop model a, all over the place with stock seat setup. I don't see why modification to the seat wouldn't gain you all the extra room you need with a bigger chop

No matter what your gonna have to stop way before the stop lights to be able to see em and twist your neck a little to see past the visor. That's part of the fun tax. Gotta pay to play, haha

 

Photos help a ton, thanks guys. I'm willing to pay to play for sure , I wouldn't be here if I weren't.

Adam, you may be right, it seemed tight to me, but at least one of those three coupes in post 1 shows a seat of stock looking height (see attached). Again, as mr48chev pointed out, I havent riden in one. My worry is that I'll be too strait legged, and anything I can do to allow longer trips without fear of hospitalization, I'll do. I intend to drive the hell out this thing one day.

 

While you are thinking of head room... don't forget to put a helmet on during all of your mock-ups if you plan to do any test-n-tune, Billetproof style drags in it! Learned that lesson the hard way, me self. Gary

 

My real gut advice would be to build your chassis and keep it simple without too many exotic tricks. Then place the body, bolt it down and cut the roof to get the look your after. Then build the seat. If you keep it straight forward you will complete and enjoy the car. Even straight forward is a pain in the balls by the way. That black a on duece rails has a very aggressive look but it's setup is pretty straight forward, solid traditional hot ridding. Do that

 

Driving with your legs straight out will get old fast,,just a suggestion,before you touch the top with a saw,mock up your brake,clutch and gas pedal,mount your steering and decide where your going to plant your arse.

This way you can get a feel for just how much you can chop the top and still have some comfort. HRP

 

One mans "too straight legged " is different than another's.
are you certain about your car or just worried it might be problematic?

 

SPEEDWAY, sells a little part that you put on the inside windshield-top and allows you to see the stop signal, they work good!

 

I prefer to work harder not smarter

 

I've been down this road .........

Clamp some flat stock to the bottom of your frame rails to sit a seat on and for your feet.

Pick up a pair of seats from a Miata (narrow)
I shortened the backs of the seats, and when upholstered, they look right.

Modify the bottom seat brackets so you can get them as close to the floor as possible.

Put 3" (use 2 2x4 blocks of wood) under the front of the seat, this will give you a somewhat of a laid back (think Sports car) look and feel.

Make sure you have a steering wheel and column to mock up with at the same time.

Here is a video of a '30 Sedan that I built, at about the 3 minute mark you can see the interior: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8lX85_kEZB0

You can do it.
Glenn

 

just put a bubble on it like roth

 

I have no pity for any of you. I'm in the middle of my 30 A coupe built now. 2.5" chop. I want to go 2" more.
Slight problem......... I'm 6'5" and NOT skinny.
Ya, I'm gonna pay to play big time!

 

Thanks for the link, really nice work).

I'm sure of the look I want. I'm not sure if its necessary to drop the floorpans, for me personally (5',10", 200 lbs). I'm just going on what I've read here, and my own initial measures while sitting on the stock riser and measuring down the A-pillar.

I'm working on the subrails now, but I guess I need to be farther along, as suggested by others, to really get a feel for whether or not this will be an issue once I have a better idea of the pedal set up, etc.

So, you're right, this may be a good solution to a problem I don't have.

Still, its good to know the option is there.

 

Just an opinion, but I like to sit where my eyes are in the middle of the rear window, quarter windows, door windows, etc... And I'm 6'5".

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I'm not sure when chops for street driving, got mixed up with salt flat's race cars,maybe when the first guy that had no understanding of what the heavily chopped job was even for, it sure as hell was not for the so called look,it was aero only and helped a racecar.
That look of over chopped on a street rod,too any one that knows better is a "builder should of known better"sign. If ya can't see out well and or can't sit well in the car=it was done wrong..... Get smart about how much is safe vs how much just looks like it was done by some one that messed up a body,that later will need to be unchopped by a few in.s. So many over chopped cars now just get sold over and over as each new owner finds out it is nearly undrivible an unsafe,but will not admitt it or fix it=just sell it.
If this note saves you from your self,good if not,I tyred Over chopped on the street dose not look cool,it only looks like a misstake and a cartoon.

 

Transmission and torque tube in cockpit.....floor at bottom of frame rails.....seats between frame rail and trans. tunnel.....3 bar rear suspension, with 3rd bar in trans. tunnel......other 2 bars under frame rails.....you will also need a pan hard bar. Front of seat riser is part of crossmembers, with extra strength coming with a thick metal floor and strategically placed tube reinforcements......sort of semi-unibody set up. With a crank out windshield and a removable rear window, you will get enough air flow on hot days......50* and below! you will enjoy the extra warmth.

Do it, and with a radical chop, it will still be comfortable to drive.

 

If you've seen my build, then you know I'm not messing up a good body. The cars I posted are some of my favorites.
Thanks for trying Dana, I'm sure you mean well, but I guess I'm a lost soul...

 

^^^ Sometimes coolness is not comfortable.. I say go for it...