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Making an older paint job look better...wet sand or compound?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Jobe, Nov 9, 2009.

  1. Jobe
    Joined: Oct 19, 2004
    Posts: 1,248

    Jobe
    Member
    from Austin, Tx

    My 62 caddy's paint is showing it's age...has been for awhile. Outside of the bondo cracking and some chips and peeling here and there it still looks decent. I want to try and bring back some of the shine. From what I can tell it's single stage black, and is about 15-17 years old.

    The car sits outside all the time. I wash it fairly frequently because of this...and remember...Texas summers are brutal and the car is black!

    I did the Turtle Wax Color Back about 3 years ago and havn't messed with it since.

    Should I wetsand the car with 1500 or 2000 to get some scratches, oxidation, etc. off of it? Or should I just do the old compound and wax method?

    This is a daily driver, just want it to look a bit nicer is all.

    Thanks for your help.
     
  2. skullhat
    Joined: May 30, 2009
    Posts: 892

    skullhat
    Member

    i would go with the polish only first.

    chances are that old paint is pretty thin and sanding will take it right through to primer.

    if it polishes nice, but still has imperfections., then try the sand paper, but id be vary carefull, till you see how much material you have left



    skull
     
  3. PegLegStrick
    Joined: Aug 8, 2007
    Posts: 1,883

    PegLegStrick
    Member

    what Skull said X2
     
  4. Nefarious Art
    Joined: Sep 23, 2009
    Posts: 106

    Nefarious Art
    Member
    from Auburn, Ca

    give it a nice wetsandin with the 2000 and as long as you aren't sanding in one spot too long you're fine. stay away from points and edges though. machine polish with 3M's regular rubbing compound, followed with swirl mark remover. that will give it a nice high gloss. if you're real anal about the swirl marks you can follow it up with the ultrafina compound, but this shit can get expensive and for the condition of your paintjob you probably don't need it. don't have too much fun now!!!
     

  5. BISHOP
    Joined: Jul 16, 2006
    Posts: 2,571

    BISHOP
    Member

    I tried to freshin up my 64 Caddy. I wet sanded the hood with 2000, did a cut and buff job. The paint looked damn near new, except where it got a little thin.

    The factory paint is very thin, this makes sanding almost impossible. I'm an experienced painter and wet sanding the factory paint was touchy.

    If I were to try this again, I would just clay bar it, then buff it with a chemical compound, the less grit the better.

    Meguiars diamond cut #9, or something close to that.
     
  6. 49ratfink
    Joined: Feb 8, 2004
    Posts: 17,984

    49ratfink
    Member
    from California

    some old paint just don't shine up no matter what. other times it will fade back pretty quick.
     
  7. Wicked Tin
    Joined: Oct 17, 2007
    Posts: 1,153

    Wicked Tin
    Member

    I did a quick wet sand on my caddy with 2000 grit being careful not to take too much off and then did a cut and buff after that. Turned out great except where the body work was failing (bodo chipping, etc) Looks alot better until I can do the body and paint.
     
  8. Rickybop
    Joined: May 23, 2008
    Posts: 6,861

    Rickybop
    Member
    from Michigan


    Yeah...don't even try. :rolleyes:
     
  9. I wouldn't wet sand unless you have some minor scratches you are trying to remove, and than remove those very carefully. If it were me I would use 3M 6060 or 6085 with a wool pad followed up by 6064 machine polish on a grey foam pad. Apply some pressure to the pad, keep it wet, dont do it in the hot Texas sun. Good Luck
     
  10. Jobe
    Joined: Oct 19, 2004
    Posts: 1,248

    Jobe
    Member
    from Austin, Tx

    Ok, looking like I'll pass on wetsanding right now. I don't have a buffer/polisher right now...I'll be doing this the old fashioned way. Is there a good single product 3M or someone makes to this or am I looking for compound and then a wax? Thanks
     
  11. Nefarious Art
    Joined: Sep 23, 2009
    Posts: 106

    Nefarious Art
    Member
    from Auburn, Ca

    Like i said 3m makes a real good c ompound. a lil pricey but it works great. go with extra cut if you're doin it by hand. she's gonna be a reeeaaal cunt! haha
     
  12. slammed
    Joined: Jun 10, 2004
    Posts: 8,151

    slammed
    Member

    Clay bar it c-l-e-a-n. Then, try some cleaner/wax on the flat area's. Stay off the edge's, corner's ect. Lot's of hand glaze will give an old paint surface some shine. When you feel you've swam the Mississippi upstream.........you are ready to lay on the carnuba wax to seal the deal. Oh, Rain-X that glass too, son.
     
  13. Bull
    Joined: Mar 17, 2006
    Posts: 2,286

    Bull
    Member

    You could use Wizard's Finish Cut 1-step compound. It works best if applied by machine, but I applied it by hand on my own car it it worked just fine that way on my oxidized daily driver.
    [​IMG]
     
  14. Bent
    Joined: Aug 30, 2007
    Posts: 191

    Bent
    Member
    from Canada

    PM John Denich on here. He'll point you in the right direction.
     
  15. raaf
    Joined: Aug 27, 2002
    Posts: 583

    raaf
    Member

    i've had GREAT luck with a product called TR3* resin glaze. i can't tell you what's in it or why it works but i've used it to successfully freshen old finishes. seems to take off just the right amount of haze.

    *not affiliated with triumphs in any way...
     

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