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Technical Mac's/United Pacific LED tail lights for '48 Ford

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Ritzy1, Apr 21, 2017.

  1. Ritzy1
    Joined: Jun 10, 2010
    Posts: 76

    Ritzy1
    Member

    Anybody have experience installing Mac's/United Pacific LED tail lights on their '48 Ford? When I tried to install the ones I bought I found that the LED lens interferes with the original mounting screws. Unless I'm missing something, there is no way they will work.

    I called Mac's and United Pacific and of course both told me that they'd never heard of a problem with them before. Of course, I bought them over a year ago, so I'm betting Mac's won't take them back either.

    Can anyone suggest a solution or if I'm doing something wrong from the attached pictures? Mac's-UP LED tail light # 1.jpg Mac's-UP LED tail light # 2.jpg
     
  2. roadsterdonpat32
    Joined: Apr 16, 2008
    Posts: 45

    roadsterdonpat32
    Member

    If I remember right on my 48 I used 2 gaskets.
     
  3. Old Tin and New Tin
    Joined: Jun 2, 2011
    Posts: 296

    Old Tin and New Tin
    Member

    Can you use countersunk screws to give you clearance?
     
  4. okiedokie
    Joined: Jul 5, 2005
    Posts: 2,857

    okiedokie
    Member
    from Ok

    I used them on my 46 with no problem. Great lights.
     
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  5. 5window
    Joined: Jan 29, 2005
    Posts: 5,797

    5window
    Member

    How much clearance do you need? Can you double the gaskets as suggested and maybe grind the screws down a bit to get what you need? OTOH, it's a hot rod, so you probably should be using incandescent bulbs after all. :)
     
  6. mgtstumpy
    Joined: Jul 20, 2006
    Posts: 5,315

    mgtstumpy
    Member

    If a push comes to a shove I'd cut the head off the screw and plug weld it to tail lamp body through the hole, making it a stud or do what others have suggested. You don't want the screw heads or stud to touch any of the solder joints on the printed circuit when buttoned down.
     
  7. Ritzy1
    Joined: Jun 10, 2010
    Posts: 76

    Ritzy1
    Member

    I thought about that too, but the fastener head is thicker than two gaskets and I was afraid if I added three that I wouldn't be able to get the trim ring mounted.

    The person I spoke to at UAPAC first suggested I chip away the epoxy to make clearance for the fasteners? Then, he suggested using truss head screws because they have a lower profile. You'd think that if the manufacturer indicates it was designed for a particular car that it would fit!
     
  8. David Gersic
    Joined: Feb 15, 2015
    Posts: 1,188

    David Gersic
    Member
    from DeKalb, IL

    I can't tell from the pics, is the back sealed or is the circuit board exposed?

    Thinner head screws might be enough to clear this. If the back is epoxy sealed, maybe you can gain some clearance for the screws with a die grinder and careful thinning of the epoxy.


    Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  9. bedwards
    Joined: Mar 25, 2015
    Posts: 170

    bedwards
    Member

    I can't tell from the pic but are they sealed units? Can you concave a place for the screw heads with a dremel tool without breaking through the back and grounding the circuit?

    Well, I see that has been suggested already =[
     
  10. okiedokie
    Joined: Jul 5, 2005
    Posts: 2,857

    okiedokie
    Member
    from Ok

    I wish I still had my 46 so I could look at it. I did not have your problem. Wonder if some others can post some pictures.
     
  11. Ritzy1
    Joined: Jun 10, 2010
    Posts: 76

    Ritzy1
    Member

    I may try the two gasket idea and see if I can find a screw with a lower profile and/or countersink a wood screw. Disappointing quality and customer service in my mind from both Mac's and United Pacific.
     
    Atwater Mike likes this.
  12. I have them on my car- I don't recall having to modify the 'bulb' part to fit- my tail lights are repro's and had more trouble getting the trim ring to fit right. I used a machine screw to mount the taillight assembly to the housing- no clearance issue


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  13. hotrod37
    Joined: Aug 8, 2006
    Posts: 89

    hotrod37
    Member
    from Indiana

    I would think they were studs from the factory. My '40 had studs. The screw heads are the issue. Weld in studs and you should be OK. Countersink the housing, use flathead screws, weld them in, and grind smooth. Just make sure no electrical contact to the light.
     
  14. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 13,252

    gimpyshotrods
    Member

  15. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 7,548

    Atwater Mike
    Member

    GREAT one, Gimpy... Hadn't seen the 'ultra lows' before.
     
    gimpyshotrods likes this.
  16. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 13,252

    gimpyshotrods
    Member

    Trust me, I find every problem possible. THEN I have to solve them. :confused:
     
    David Gersic likes this.
  17. 5window
    Joined: Jan 29, 2005
    Posts: 5,797

    5window
    Member

  18. Ritzy1
    Joined: Jun 10, 2010
    Posts: 76

    Ritzy1
    Member

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