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Lug toque how tight?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by stlrider, May 25, 2011.

  1. stlrider
    Joined: Nov 9, 2008
    Posts: 108

    stlrider
    Member

    I just got a set of Supremes in unilug. I tightened them down to 75# and it distorted the washers.

    How tight do you guys go on a steel unilug?
     
  2. SecretAgent
    Joined: Jan 6, 2009
    Posts: 34

    SecretAgent
    Member

    I almost always go to 70-75# by default. Seems to work well. Usually the washers are really soft metal so they distort but don't hurt the wheel and most importantly, don't back out. Always retorque at 100 miles or 2 heat cycles.
     
  3. junk yard kid
    Joined: Nov 11, 2007
    Posts: 2,719

    junk yard kid
    Member

    Why i dont have an exact answer, magniesium and aluminum wheels dont need to go as tight as steel wheels. Ive broke a few studs to find this out.
     
  4. stlrider
    Joined: Nov 9, 2008
    Posts: 108

    stlrider
    Member

    Thanks I'll keep it around 70'#s then.
     

  5. bgaro
    Joined: Sep 3, 2010
    Posts: 1,189

    bgaro
    Member

    i don't think i have ever seen one of those washers that was still flat, i wonder if there is a grade eight version all chromey and nice.
     
  6. As a Canadian I like my Toque real tight so the Arctic wind won't blow it off... Sorry couldn't resist!
     
  7. I use copper anti-seize and 80 ft/lbs, for no two reasons: that is what I was told from a very young age, and it hasn't failed me yet!

    It seems to work wel on uni-lugs, mags and steelies equally as well.
     
  8. Make sure you have the right washers and nuts that match. There are a few different styles and depends on the wheel as to which one you need. Sounds like you should have the heavy 3/16 " washer.
     
  9. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 29,758

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Make sure that you retorque them as Secretagent suggested. The tire store I deal with even puts a card in the vehicle saying to make sure and go back and have the wheels retorqued after a hundred miles.
     
  10. oldolds
    Joined: Oct 18, 2010
    Posts: 3,174

    oldolds
    Member

    If you had a big truck and D.O.T. inspectors see anti-seize you will park the rig. Most cars call for around 100 lbs torque on lug nuts.
     
  11. PinHead
    Joined: Jun 3, 2005
    Posts: 243

    PinHead
    Member

    When I got my unilug ET's, I was told 75 ft/lbs by the guy I got my nuts and washers from. I assume yours would be the same.

    These going on the fairlane in your avatar? I'd love to see em, mine are on my 62 as well.
     
  12. badshifter
    Joined: Apr 28, 2006
    Posts: 3,344

    badshifter
    Member

    Wrong Info. And he didn't put Supremes on a big rig.
    You'll have guys snapping studs all over the place. Torque is determined by the stud size first, and the wheel manufacturer second. Don't exceed the stud size torque spec.
    Here are standard specs:
    <table border="0" cellpadding="0" width="88%"><tbody><tr><th align="center" width="42%" nowrap="nowrap">Lug Size</th> <th align="center" width="58%" nowrap="nowrap">Ft/Lbs Torque</th> </tr> <tr> <td align="center" width="42%">7/16"</td> <td align="center" width="58%">55-65</td> </tr> <tr> <td align="center" width="42%">1/2"</td> <td align="center" width="58%">75-85</td> </tr> <tr> <td align="center" width="42%">9/16"</td> <td align="center" width="58%">95-115</td> </tr> <tr> <td align="center" width="42%">5/8"</td> <td align="center" width="58%">135-145</td> </tr> <tr> <td align="center" width="42%">12mm</td> <td align="center" width="58%">72-80</td> </tr> <tr> <td align="center" width="42%">14mm</td> <td align="center" width="58%">85-95
    </td></tr></tbody></table>
     
  13. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 49,499

    squirrel
    Member

    badshifter beat me to it on the torque vs size thing. I usually go 65 on small studs (7/16") and 80 on big ones (1/2"). I look up the factory specs on later models and bigger trucks and stuff.
     
  14. redlinetoys
    Joined: May 18, 2004
    Posts: 4,301

    redlinetoys
    Member
    from Midwest

    Badshifter, I agree. Plenty tight enough. Any more has a high potential to create damage. The key is the torque re-check, especially with aluminum wheels.
     
  15. I Drag
    Joined: Apr 11, 2007
    Posts: 884

    I Drag
    Member

    Reverse those cupped washers each time so the cupped side faces the wheel please. This will let the washer spread the load properly. My friend refuses to do this and it bugs the hell out of me.
     
  16. badshifter
    Joined: Apr 28, 2006
    Posts: 3,344

    badshifter
    Member

    Sorry, but more wrong information.
    The oval washer is no different (in most cases) than a "cut" washer. When you look at it new, it will have a rounded edge, and a sharp edge on opposite sides. This is from the punch process. The sharp edged side should contact the wheel (just like any washer should normally be installed sharp edge down) and the rounded edge should face out. If you keep flip flopping it, you will weaken an already poor design. Do it often enough and it will fail. No different than taking a piece of sheetmetal and bending it back and forth until it breaks. Some lug nut washers are stamped which side goes where, and some uni-lug washers only go on one way. Ugly as it is, leave them one sided, or replace them when they are too ugly or distorted.
     
  17. I Drag
    Joined: Apr 11, 2007
    Posts: 884

    I Drag
    Member

    Badshifter, I respect your opinion, and I knew some would disagree with me. My friend always keeps the lettering instructing a given side to face the wheel inward, despite the fact that the washer is cupped out like a bowl.

    I was actually hesitant to post my opinion, since I didn&#8217;t want someone to get a false torque value from the washers&#8217; compression, or in this case, re-compression. These are not true Belleville washers.

    I could argue that your insistence that the sharp washer edge rest on the wheel face will gouge the wheel to the point that the wheel could fail, but we know this is unlikely.

    Besides, I also like the sharp edge of a flat washer to face down, but not when it&#8217;s cupped.

    Also, I agree that repeated flexing of mild steel will eventually cause it to fail, but I don&#8217;t know if I have ever seen a wheel lug washer failure, nor have I ever heard of one. Realistically this is beyond the cycling a wheel washer would ever see. Yes it could be bad if it happened, but it might be mitigated by the idea that it would remain basically trapped under the lug. I too have discarded wheel washers that were extremely worn out.

    My assertion is that a flat washer functions, at least in part, to spread the torque load applied by the fastener across the material. This is diminished if the washer is cupped and the outer edge cannot lie on the material. If this was not part of the design, the OD of washers would be only as big as the corners of the fastener (or less, really).

    Flat washers also function as a sacrificial slipping surface to keep the fastener from gouging the material so proper torque can be applied. As stated, if this was the only function, flat washers would be much smaller in OD.

    With all due respect, I stand by my assertion that a dished out washer is not functioning properly.
     
    Last edited: May 25, 2011
  18. r8odecay
    Joined: Nov 8, 2006
    Posts: 787

    r8odecay
    Member

    Or you could just do what my pawpaw taught me and just stand on the lug wrench, then hop twice...






    I kid.
     
  19. stlrider
    Joined: Nov 9, 2008
    Posts: 108

    stlrider
    Member

    [​IMG]
     
  20. stlrider
    Joined: Nov 9, 2008
    Posts: 108

    stlrider
    Member

    As always tons of info provided thanks. My studs are 1/2 20 so I'll stick with 75. I always do 90 on my newer cars with aluminum wheels and never had a problem.
     

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