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lowering ur 57-64 straight axel f100

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by malkintent, Sep 16, 2009.

  1. malkintent
    Joined: Sep 3, 2007
    Posts: 442

    malkintent
    Member

    after a few requests i will take a bunch of pics n tell step by step

    how i lowered my ride,

    i will start posting wed 9/16/09 after 5pm, on this thread!

    i'll write it out and show pics,

    i hope the way i do it is ok with the mods, after i start "mods"

    please let me know if it's posted or formated wrong

    thanks

    mal
     
  2. malkintent
    Joined: Sep 3, 2007
    Posts: 442

    malkintent
    Member

    Ok i've had some people wondering how i got my stance.

    here's what i started with

    1964 f100 shortbox 2 wheel drive
    straight axle
    9 inch 3:80 gears
    225/75/15 on 15x8 rims in rear
    205/75/15 on 15x8 in front
    292 3 speed on tree

    first step was to look at pic's n threads on the "HAMB"

    everything i learned about lowering it, i found on the "HAMB"

    I i measuerd the distance between the frt axel and the oil pan.
    mine was about 7 inch's
    then i jacked up the front end as high as my floor jack would go.
    so i had lot of clearance under the truck.
    i used a pickle fork to take off the draglink
    since im gonna remove the axel to put new king pins in i
    took off the clip on the inside of the frame for the break lines.
    by putting a board on the break peddle propping it against the seat
    and break line caps that i got at napa, i wouldn't have to bleed the
    break lines as much.
    then i removed the break line hoses from the frame to the wheel cyl's
    the next step was to remove the front spring mount bolts after removing the nuts i put my floor jack under the axle so i could hold it when i used an air hammer to punch out the bolts,
    then i lowered the axle and springs down,
    some people will reuse axle u bolts but i don't like using old ones
    so i cut mine off with a cut off wheel
    after removing the axle i put it on the bench

    the axle was not in bad shape, so the wheel bearings came right off.
    the inside was all in good shape, but now would be a good time to check
    all the brake components so you can order any stuff you might need to replace.

    i measured the center hole for the spring pin and then transfered it to the botttom side of the axle so i could keep the axle centered in the same spot on the springs.
    the drilling of the axle was pretty easy, i did a 1/8 inch pilot hole then used a 5/8 inch hole to clear the spring bolt nuts i say nut's because i replaced the spring bolt with a 1/4 inch longer one and used two nuts on the spring bolt to clear the camber shim from the bottom of the springs.

    i removed the spring bolt by using big c clamps to hold the springs together, then cut the bolt off with a cut off wheel and tapped it out.

    i purchused the spring bolts and u bolts at my local salvage yard
    "www.vikingautosalvage.com" they were cheaper than any of the auto parts store localy.

    i then drilled out the camber shim center hole to 5/8 inch.
    putting it back on the axle but a 180 deg from how it was on the bottom.

    then i turned my attention to the axel blocks,
    i got the idea from "jimbo302" on this "HAMB" link
    [​IMG]
    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=280413&highlight=lowering+64+ford

    he seems to have used solid stock steel, but i used
    1 1.5" x 2 1/2" x 4"x 1/4" tube steel,
    1"x2" x 1/4" flat stock steel

    cutting the tube steel i then welded the ends closed
    the measuerd in from the ends center punched and drilled the holes
    for the ubolts to 5/8"
    im not giving exact deminsions because every axel a little different
    i bought a longer 5/16" and 5/8" bits so i could drill through the top and bottom with out removing the block from the vise on the drill press.

    after the blocks were done i used them as templets to grind the bottom axle edge so the blocks set in against the axle, so the u bolts would go straight up other wise they would angle out under the spring,

    I then put the axel back on the springs, and installed the u bolts,
    putting it together finger tight to get it to wiggle, to set the axle on the spring bolts,

    then raised it back up, and bolted it all back together, reinstalled the shocks and breaklines
    jacked it up to take out the jack stands, setting it down on the springs
    then tightened it all up.
    this will give u an idea of the axle height, then measure the axle to pan clearance, and look at the bump stops,

    i then heated, bent, and cut the drag link for a 4 inch drop.

    i used a straight edge from the steering arm on the backing plate to the
    pitman arm then measured from the top of the straight edge down to the hole to get the drop.

    it did help with bump steer but i want to make an adjustable one.
    and the stock shocks and break line still work

    so thats the front end
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Sep 16, 2009
  3. malkintent
    Joined: Sep 3, 2007
    Posts: 442

    malkintent
    Member

    any feed back on the way i wrote it so far would be helpfull!

    thanks
     
  4. Tacho
    Joined: Aug 21, 2009
    Posts: 85

    Tacho
    Member

    Kick ass dude! I like the care for detail in the fab process. Things can easily get
    overlooked but your work and the way you think go together well and it shows.
    It appears bottoming out might be a concern? The clearance looks like a pretty close shave.
     

  5. malkintent
    Joined: Sep 3, 2007
    Posts: 442

    malkintent
    Member

    front has no shocks yet n i've been hitting tracks at 20 30 mph, and dirt roads and hasnt hit the pan yet!! n the bump stops are still there,

    rear pics coming fri after 5pm
     
  6. NITMARE
    Joined: Feb 8, 2009
    Posts: 73

    NITMARE
    Member

    Hey man, just letting ya know I am using this thread to drop the front in my 57 right now. The only exception is that I put a small 2.5" notch in the frame just for some extra clearance. Helpful write up!
     
  7. porkshop
    Joined: Jan 22, 2004
    Posts: 1,738

    porkshop
    Member
    from Clovis Ca

    Are the rear pics still coming?
     
  8. malkintent
    Joined: Sep 3, 2007
    Posts: 442

    malkintent
    Member

    rear pics coming soon, i need to get my camera fixed
     
  9. bstie
    Joined: Jan 20, 2007
    Posts: 243

    bstie
    Member

    great write up - I am going to try this setup on my 46 studebaker starting this weekend! cant wait to see what you have planned for the rear. Thanks for the help!
     
  10. FatDave
    Joined: Feb 7, 2009
    Posts: 78

    FatDave
    Member

    This will work for 48-52 fords as well.
     
  11. Mattilac
    Joined: Oct 27, 2007
    Posts: 1,156

    Mattilac
    Member

    Very nice write up! Except I'm pretty sure you have 6" wide wheels not 8".
     
  12. zimm
    Joined: Jan 22, 2006
    Posts: 802

    zimm
    Member
    from iowa

    you taked about making new shackels in your other thread was that for the front or the rear?
    I fliped my front, only I have a 1/2in plate under my axel so it it just a little lower and i have no travel its on the bump stops (its a 61 223 btw) so i think im goin to have to add about 1-1.5in to the shackel to get my travel back and probly a small notch in the frame
     
  13. willymakeit
    Joined: Apr 13, 2009
    Posts: 1,326

    willymakeit
    Member

    It turned out far better than I thought it would. Congradulations. Haave you given any thought to raising your steering box? Not sure , but this should help with bump steer and will change angle of column slightly.
     
  14. Make sure that you check the driveline angle at the back of your transmission after your lowering job. After I lowered my truck, I didn't and blew out the transmission after less than 5,000 miles because of the bind that the driveshaft was in. Even though we cut the driveshaft to the right length, the engine and tranny to driveshaft angle was wrong. Second time around, we shimmed up the back of the transmission. Everything is more in a straight line now, if that explanation makes sense. 30,000 miles and so far so good. Good luck, nice truck!
     
  15. malkintent
    Joined: Sep 3, 2007
    Posts: 442

    malkintent
    Member

    ok a quick update, sorry it's takin so long, time , money , kids, and a broken camera!

    i didnt have to raise the steering box, i heated, bent, cut and welded my drag link!

    and i add'd a steering damper, universal type between the tie rod and axel!

    and i didnt have a prob with bump cleance between the frt axel and the bump stops
    but in the rear i did notch the frame, 2.5 inchs,
    no pics yet due to no camera! arrrrg

    and when i welded the new rear perch's i set the pinion angle
     
  16. Barn-core
    Joined: Jan 26, 2004
    Posts: 946

    Barn-core
    Member

    I'm wondering how these trucks ride and drive after being lowered like this? Any bump steer or any other problems?
     
  17. Javier
    Joined: Aug 12, 2008
    Posts: 1,433

    Javier
    Member
    1. Strugglers C.C.

    wow this is giving me some good ideas.thanks.good luck
     
  18. malkintent
    Joined: Sep 3, 2007
    Posts: 442

    malkintent
    Member

    ok boys n girls i finally got a camera

    rear axel flip n some fe motor swap teasers

    u get some 9 inch rear spring bolts 7 or more inches long
    u reuse the bolt plates.
    get some 9 inch perches from ur local parts store,
    i put removed the front spring mount bolts and bought new ones
    drop the springs and slide in the axel.
    u can reuse the e-brake cables, and brake lines.
    set the axel in the new perches after cutting down the spring pack retaining
    pins threads if u have to.
    put on the new axel ubolts and snug the down
    use a jacl and raise the rear end and install the spring bolts
    lower the axle down and move the jack under the pinion yoke
    i set the truck level with the front,
    use a cheap dial angle finder from northerm tool, or your local tool mart
    set the angle of the pinion to 6 - 8 degrees, i set mine at 8 cause of the fe
    motor swap. and i did that by jacking the yoke up the welding the new perches on, depending on ur skill u may want to pull the rear end back out!



    then i used the axle as a guide and marked a few inches on either sides of the axle so as to notch the frame.
    my axle was just sitting on the bump stops so i only went 2 inches into the frame.

    i used 3/8 ths inch angle iron to make the notching steel
    i cut it and bent it to fit my notch cut,
    i then set the plate in the frame and welded it in on all edges.

    i then made my own bump stops out of angle iron and gussets

    once they are in i was done
    i even used the same shocks

    easy as pie, lol but some peiple may find it hard,
    just ask for help from a friend or pm me if u have any questions
     

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  19. malkintent
    Joined: Sep 3, 2007
    Posts: 442

    malkintent
    Member

    some more pics
     

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  20. malkintent
    Joined: Sep 3, 2007
    Posts: 442

    malkintent
    Member

    more
     

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  21. chaddilac
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 14,021

    chaddilac
    Member

    Sweet!!! Where did you get your steering dampener?
     
  22. malkintent
    Joined: Sep 3, 2007
    Posts: 442

    malkintent
    Member

    i just sold the truck to a friend and he or we blew the 292.
    and as hes was towing back behind anothe vehicle he noticed.
    it rode super smooth!
    it tracked really well!
    he's now putting in a fe motor that got cheap.

    pics to come soon in a dif thread cause the hamb wont let me post the right now
     
  23. malkintent
    Joined: Sep 3, 2007
    Posts: 442

    malkintent
    Member

    its a generic danpner from advance, i made the braket and drilled a whole in the axel
    anr it fits perfectly between thw drag link and axel and elininate 80% of the bump steer
     

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  24. malkintent
    Joined: Sep 3, 2007
    Posts: 442

    malkintent
    Member

    360
    a boat anchor but a 390 or a 428 will replace it!!
     

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  25. il Revrunde
    Joined: Jun 22, 2005
    Posts: 224

    il Revrunde
    Member


    LMC truck has a whole steering dampner kit w/bracketry for $99 that fits 57-64 trucks
     
  26. rottn
    Joined: Apr 14, 2009
    Posts: 11

    rottn
    Member
    from Mokena IL

    I have my rear axle mocked up the same way right now, but found out by doing this flip the axle centerline moved forward by an inch. I took a plumb-bob and marked the centerline of the axle to the frame before I started and then again after I flipped to the top of the springs. There was an inch difference from centerline to centerline. I think I need to drill the axle plates an inch offset inorder to keep the original axle center in the frame and also to maintain the play needed in the driveshaft so I do not have to shorten the shaft. Did you run into these same issues??
     
  27. malkintent
    Joined: Sep 3, 2007
    Posts: 442

    malkintent
    Member



    no i didnt have that prob, odd!
    my center line is the same.
     
  28. ChopHoliday
    Joined: Nov 5, 2008
    Posts: 40

    ChopHoliday
    Member
    from P-Town, VA

    I'm finishing up mine right now and thought I was having the centerline issue. Looked that way until I finally put the truck on the ground. Hadn't notched the frame yet and being that the axle is sitting right on the bump stops its definitely center.
    Still a couple things to do before I put it on the road but wondering why you had to modify the drag link? I searched all over to get a better idea of how to handle this project and went by this thread. Made a couple changes while boxing the i beam though. I had some 2x4 1/8" tubing and cut 1 side off. Cut notches in the i beam and welded them in. Then cut and drilled an 1/8" plate for the spring seat and welded to the box. Maybe overkill but it's going nowhere. Have 235/70 15s on the front and just new they were going to rub. Drove around my building and fine so far. Still going to change to a 205 when I put the smoothies on and paint it.
    Thanks for posting your pics and all the details of your drop.
     

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  29. 34rdztr
    Joined: Sep 13, 2009
    Posts: 50

    34rdztr
    Member

    i have just recently bought a 64 f100 also and plan on lowering it also,very good pics and ideas......does any have any need for a 351c/4 bbl head motor(with headers) with c-6 trans for one of these trucks? we are going to a efi 302 and dont need the 351c. thanks eddie

    has anybody put a mustang II front under one of these trucks??i know they are making the x member for it now,just wondering what issues you might have run into. thanks
     
  30. malkintent
    Joined: Sep 3, 2007
    Posts: 442

    malkintent
    Member

    chopholiday, that truck looks awesome! i like ur idea for the axel ill try that next time!

    glad u could help!!
     

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