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lowering blocks

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by sloppymotor, Jul 25, 2012.

  1. sloppymotor
    Joined: Feb 9, 2011
    Posts: 246

    sloppymotor
    Member
    from iowa

    Anyone know the best site to get a lowering block kit for my 51 chevy deluxe...
     
  2. BLUDICE
    Joined: Jun 23, 2006
    Posts: 1,511

    BLUDICE
    Member

    Make your own out of 1/4" square tubing, 2"x??
     
  3. el Scotto
    Joined: Mar 3, 2004
    Posts: 4,699

    el Scotto
    Member
    from Tracy, CA

  4. jdownunder
    Joined: Aug 21, 2007
    Posts: 334

    jdownunder
    Member

    make your own its easy.you'll just have buy longer u-bolts
     

  5. yetiskustoms
    Joined: May 22, 2009
    Posts: 1,932

    yetiskustoms
    Member

  6. sloppymotor
    Joined: Feb 9, 2011
    Posts: 246

    sloppymotor
    Member
    from iowa

  7. Lone Star Mopar
    Joined: Nov 2, 2005
    Posts: 3,830

    Lone Star Mopar
    Member

    Chevy's of the 40's sells em that are the correct width for your springs for about 60$
     
  8. MrFalcon62
    Joined: Sep 9, 2010
    Posts: 249

    MrFalcon62
    Member

    just got my 2" blocks from mooneyes for $40
     
  9. BLUDICE
    Joined: Jun 23, 2006
    Posts: 1,511

    BLUDICE
    Member

    My cost $11 from a steel scrap yard.
     
  10. Pep Boys has them pretty cheap. But like they said here, you can always make your own.
     
  11. Pep Boys have the CHEAP!!! I always stock up when I go to the States. That's what I run on my car!
     
  12. sponge
    Joined: Dec 8, 2008
    Posts: 249

    sponge
    Member
    from Austin tx

    autonzone has em cheap also.
     
  13. HUSSEY
    Joined: Feb 16, 2010
    Posts: 628

    HUSSEY
    Member

    Make your own and you can save a few bucks and have fun fabricating them.

    I used 1.5x3 in. box tubing. I welded 1/8 in. plate to each side to resize it to 1.75x3. Ground the welds down then cut the blocks to 4 in. length (I made one long piece to start out with). Find the center by scratching the metal with a set of dial calipers on the top and bottom. Drill a 1/2 in. hole in the bottom and 3/8 in. hole in the top. Bolt a 1/2 in. axle bolt in the top 3/8 in. hole then cut it down to a height of 3/8 in. and put a small radius on the edges.

    You'll have to get some longer square bend u-bolts. I looked at a trailer supply shop but the longest they had was 5.5 in. I went to a spring shop (in Kansas City General Spring or American Spring) and they bent 1/2 u-bolts while I waited for $8 a bolt which included thick washers and tall nuts.

    Install and torque to 65 ft/lbs.

    I didn't capture pics of every step but here are a few. The last show my cars stance with 3 in. blocks in the back and 2.5 in. dropped uprights in the front. The first pic shows the dimentions of the blocks available from Chevy's of the 40's, which is where the pic is referaced from.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  14. Made mine for my '47 Chevy PU out of steel and boxed the ends, then ordered U-bolts, fun project, and simple.
    [​IMG]
     
  15. XXL__
    Joined: Dec 28, 2009
    Posts: 2,117

    XXL__
    Member

    I've had the cast aluminum "cinder block" style ones from Poop Boys crumble and fail... poor quality casting, zero QC, probably some factory in China making them for 5 cents on the dollar.

    /2 cents ( <-- almost enough to get some blocks)
     

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