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Lowering Advice

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by NorCArl, Feb 12, 2014.

  1. NorCArl
    Joined: Nov 26, 2013
    Posts: 47

    NorCArl
    Member
    from California

    Looking for a fresh pair of eyes on this project- I want to lower this 55 buick a few inches but dont want to go the airbag route. Probably going for lowered springs for the front but for the rear i wanted to install these 3" blocks I have. The problem is, the car has already been converted to a leaf spring rear with air shocks. When I installed the blocks, the spring mount (as pictured) closes the gap indicated by the arrows and contacts the inner part of the wheel.
    [​IMG]
    Some friends have suggested flipping them so that the shocks mount on the inside of the leaf spring, but that seems like bad news to me. Can I just cut that part off or will it mess with the integrity of the rest of the support? Feedback is appreciated.
     
  2. RDR
    Joined: May 30, 2009
    Posts: 1,355

    RDR
    Member

    Why do you not like the idea of switching the shock bracket?...Unless there is a clearance problem on the inside...I'd put the RH brkt on the Left and vice versus
     
  3. I'd try swapping them before I started cutting on em.

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  4. dirt t
    Joined: Mar 20, 2007
    Posts: 4,737

    dirt t
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Kingman,AZ
    1. HAMB Old Farts' Club

    Will you need 3" longer shocks when you install your blocks. don't forget the front shocks.
     

  5. NorCArl
    Joined: Nov 26, 2013
    Posts: 47

    NorCArl
    Member
    from California

    ^^I would try that, but is it ok to have the shocks mounted at a reverse angle? in other words, so that the bottom of the shock is further in to the center of the car than the top?
     
  6. That was my first though. Swap the bottom brackets side for side and make new top shock mounts.
     
  7. Or see if you can use a wheel spacer without hitting the inside of the fender.
     
  8. NorCArl
    Joined: Nov 26, 2013
    Posts: 47

    NorCArl
    Member
    from California

    Hmm wheel spacer, hadnt even thought of that. Plus i only would need about an inch to clear it and there is space between the tire and fender. Ill research that option some more.

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  9. NorCArl
    Joined: Nov 26, 2013
    Posts: 47

    NorCArl
    Member
    from California

    Scratch that, no room for spacers. I think ill try to swap em and remount uppers. Ill post pics.

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  10. RDR
    Joined: May 30, 2009
    Posts: 1,355

    RDR
    Member

    many vehicles shocks are vertical with no angle toward the outside...
    and forget about adding inches to the shocks on the rear as the body and spring goes down the same amount as the lowering block when the shock is attached to the spring plate...only the axle is raised.
     
  11. Just wondering how much would you need to cut off to get 1/4 inch clearance between the wheel and shock mount... if its less than 1/2 inch under the area where the arrow is I think its heavy duty enough to be ok ....
     
  12. NorCArl
    Joined: Nov 26, 2013
    Posts: 47

    NorCArl
    Member
    from California

    Im just gonna try to swap them, then if that doesnt work i may try shaving down some of the hanger for extra clearance. If thats the case, and im only shavin 1/2" to 1" off of the portion at the top of the arrow, the rest of the mount should hold up right? If i do it with a cutoff wheel nice and slow? What about bottoming out over bumps, will the remaining portion be able to contact the wheel with any road travel? Seems like a lot of extra metal on there but im not sure...

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  13. There should not be any movement between the wheel and shock mount, it stays solid....... consider clearance for wheel weight's on the inside of the rim. I also recommend you keep the shock location where it came from the factory for best ride and control of your car ...I agree with the cut off wheel to do the job of removing any metal from the shock mount .That mount is plenty beefy enough to hold with some metal removed .keep it as cool as possible and once its cut to clear you might round any sharp edges to help prevent cracks.. I think this is the best way to solve your lowering clearance problem. the shock bracket will never see more than what the shock resistance is, no more than a few hundred pounds when hitting a pot hole ..
     

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