I am sure this has been explained a ton of times, however I cannot seem to find the answer written in a way I can understand. I have a stock 1930 A sedan I am adding juice brakes and my desire is to lower the whole car with out major modifications. First I replaced the wheels and tires with 16 wires for a nice rubber rake. Next I removed the top two leaf springs in the rear, to drop the butt some. The front is making me scratch my head some. I am still hoping to run the stock wishbone configuration. I considered using a Durant mono leaf so I could "dial" the front height to where I visually like it. This made me worry the wishbone might hit something if I choose to lower with a spring. So then I consider using a dropped axle thinking it will give me better travel for the wish bone. Which then introduces the thought my steering wont work. I would like to maintain the model a steering. Any suggestions/recommendations or warnings?
How about reversing the spring eyes? Be sure to run adapters for wire wheels on hydraulic drums. They look like they fit but don't have total support. See: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/40-ford-wheels-on-a-model-a.750368/#post-8330045 What master cylinder and mount did you use? Charlie Stephens
Un split bones, stock steering box, stock spring, 4" dropped A Axle, A tie rod, A drag link, Tie Rod is in the same location in relation to the Bones. Hyd brakes on A spindles. It bolts in and up like stock. Rides and steers like stock. Just takes a little messing around with what you have. Look close at the photos, think about what you see. Go look at what you have there. Feel free to ask anything you want. The Wizzard
16" wire , stock wisebone , rev. Eye main front and back , polished and cleaned the other leaf. Removed two leaf front and back , stock axles with juice brakes . F1 steering box and column
With 100% stock suspension, what's the lowest you could drop it by just removing a few springs? I have a Touring spring sitting on the side of my house that I might throw onto my Sport Coupe.
You won't be able to lower it enough to look good by just removing a few spring leaves,especially if it has the original springs.they are most likely sagged already from age so you will gain little more than the thickness of the leaves you remove.
Here is mine. Dropped A axle. stock wishbone. Juice brakes with round back spindles. Reverse eye main leaf. Used the pictured tie rods to get the steering below the wishbone.(still needed to heat the steering wheel arms and lower them.) Rear spring has a reverse eye main and I removed 3 leafs. 5.50x16 and 7.50x16 tires. Sent from my SM-G965U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Very nice stance on your roadster; can you describe the suspension mods and tire sizes used to achieve this look?
the springs are tighter radiused the shorter they are... don't take only short ones... take a top one, one 3rd from the bottom and one in the middle, they will lower the frame some, plus 3 times the spring thickness about 3/4"... took 5 from a '32 rear under a '30 coupe... 25 plus years ago... rode well.
Sure, in the rear i used a 39 mercury rear with TT spring hangers mounted to the top of the housings and as far out as i could get them.Main leaf was from a fat Ford,May have been the same 39 Merc, with reversed eyes.I used a variety of leaves,swapping them out until i was happy.Again, i like the knifre-edge leaves from the fat fords.I think i wound up with 5 leaves when i was done.The rear tires are 7:00 x 16 .In the front i used round back spindles with the arms bent UP to get the tie rod over the wishbone.Axle was a 34 type dropped as much as Okie Joe was comfortable with ( i think a total of 3 1/2 drop) and the ends pulled in to keep the tires in the center of the fenders,looking at it from the front.Wishbone was a modefied but unsplit 39 Lincoln Zepher.I used it because the yolk is extra wide and clears the 59a oilpan nicely.Those wishbones are a bit long so i had to space the 32 ford k member back about 7/8 of an inch.The perch area is quite a bit bigger on those Zepher bones so i had to mill the top and re taper the perch pin holes.The tie rod is dropped about 2 inches in the center to clear the crossmember and the crank pully.Front tires are 4:75/5:00 X 16. Wheels are stock 40 ford type all around.Steering is 48 F1 relocated and the column shortened. Hope this helps,Bob
Dropped A axle, reversed spring eyes front and rear, additional leaves removed front and rear, dropped spindle arms, shortened steering arm, F100 steering box, and sixteen inch steering wheel. 5.90 and 8.20x15 bias plies. Still a four banger.
They are just 46-48 Ford units. Nothing special there. I believe I bought the Bearings and spacer kit from Speedway. I just tried to get you a part number off there web sight but I couldn't seem to get there from here. I am Puter challenged! The Wizzard
This is the thread that came to mind when I read the OP. Just read through this, it will answer your questions.
Well I know that, could I drop it an inch or so? Looking to do a few minor mods before dropping cash on a full suspension setup.
Well,the average leaf spring on a Model A passenger car is not much more than 2 inches thick,depending on the body style.To get "an inch or so" you would have to take out most of the long leaves.You could do it but i don't think you would have much suspension left.Especially if they are old original springs.On most a's the shackles are already riding on the front axle due to spring sag .I'm all about building on a budget but,really,it doesn't cost much to lower the thing the right way.The classifieds are always full of good used components at a bargain price
I'm not so on a budget, I'm building a cruiser with a modified frame, so I have a bone stock chassis to play around with. Down the road I'll probably buy a drop axle for the stocker
Thanks everyone! This has been real informational and helpful. Trying 4 inch dropped axel and reverse eye main spring to start. I will post pics. Here's the before.