I think you can flip the front spindles , change or cut the front springs and the front looks good but the back is harder to get low . I had changed the stock 6 cylinder engine , that heavy cast iron power glide and rear end and put in a new leaf spring set with blocks and it would occasionally hit the trunk floor over bumps and it still didn’t look “low” . There are a ton of posts on here about how to lower those cars . I bet you could search some , see how they did it and how low it got and it would give you some ideas before you bought any parts .
We've came a long way since I lowered my 53 Bel Air hardtop in 1963 with a torch. It looked cool but rode like a lumber wagon! Today I'd use uprights from Fatman and new dearched springs from Eaton.
My wife had a '51 BelAir. She cut the front springs ($0) and added 2-3" lowering blocks in the rear. It made for a stiff ride, but looked good. IIRC, lowering blocks can be purchased from a lot of places other than JAMCO (Wirth, Filling Station, Moon, Chevs of the 40s, etc). Stay away from eBay. I had custom lowering springs made for my '59 BelAir. They were $150 per PAIR from Coil Spring Specialties. and made to match my engine and stance I wanted.
If you don't want to goof around with lowering blocks, as the torque-tube mounts are actually a pivot point for the axle housing, you can alter the height of the leaf pack by flipping the top spring. This will give you 2-3" rear drop.
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