Love is.......The Feburary Banger Meet

Check this guy out, Pete's 505 836 3110. He sometimes has an add in S O S S.

 

I can measure but I use the pads included with the 32 style motor mount. It uses a pad on top and under the cross member. The Dampener I have is 6.105 dia over paint close to 6.125 but if it supposed to be 6.125 pretty sloppy machining or tolerances. I have another one to measure later.

 

Okay, novice-type question here...

how do I remove the babbitt from my block/caps so that it doesn't get ruined when I clean the block (if I try molasses, etc)?

Again, it's a '28 Chevrolet 4.

Thanks as always, Bill

 

Thanks Bill...
I went to by buddys shop after work and the Chevy dampener he has is 6.375. I did not look at my car to see if it will fit yet.

 

You cant take babbitt out...
I scraped out all the heavy stuff and then use lacquer thinner and a brush to clean all the left over crap and then I use some very hot soap and water. I dont know if its the best way but it works for me
Bill

 

Babbit is not removable as in replaceable. It is like soldering a wire. It is cast in place. Once removed it has to be re-cast. Just in case you didn't know that.

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I've seen a couple of guys chain their engines upside down and half-dip them.
Personally, I use muriatic acid to flush out the water system with some cover plates over the water ports. Doesn't do anything for the rest of the block, but it will eat out rust in your water system. DO NOT use it in the rest of the cooling system, block off the motor only.

 

Thanks guys!

vtwin, the block is out and completely torn down, so I could do the half dip or use muratic acid.

Just getting my ducks in a row- spring break is coming soon!

 

You can mask the bearings with wax or other electroplating methods... the latest method is to
Use Dymac Speedmask....
http://www.dymax.com/products/masking/index.php
it is a resin for protecting machined surfaces temporarily during electroplating and acid cleaning processes, remember to plug any oil feed holes from the other side too....

 

Muriatic is available thru hardware stores in the paint dept. It's used for etching concrete. I think 4 parts water to one part acid is what I used. It will eat babbit, so be careful where you put it. Also make sure you are in a WELL ventilated area (as in outside or near a big open door) as it does boil off some smelly fumes (read: may be toxic, not sure). Be careful where you drain it as the removed rust stained my concrete driveway from one end to the other. Flush it out thoroughly with water (I even used some baking soda, just in case, but I don't think it's necissary.) I left it in about three hours, because my passages were a mess. When it was over they looked like new cast on the inside. Sent my radiator to the shop and had it boiled overnite and all my cooling problems dissappeared. Almost forgot the cardinal rule of dilluting acids: to prevent spills and injuries always add the acid to the water, never add the water to the acid . Wear safety glasses and gloves as a little of this stuff in the wrong place can realy screw up your day.

 

I should add that the engine was in the car (with the head on) when I did it, that's why I didn't just have it half dipped. Luke

 

My '29 A banger engine showed signs of water in the oil with the oil turning grey in color, so an oil change and about 50 miles on this oil is not clean, grey again. So my question? Can water from a blown head gasket get in the oil system or am I looking at a cracked block? Any check or test to do before tear-down and visual inspection? Hoping for the best. Thanks guys.

 

Water got in my oil by going past the rings
good luck...
later Bill

 

Thanks Bill. Will a compression check or leak-down test tell me what's happened?

 

I would just take the head off and look at the head gasket. You should see the bad spot it the gasket. A compression check I dont think will show any thing and a leak-down test if it was a fresh engine you might see 1 cyl. more then the other but a older engine will just tell you your rings have blow by and you might need a valve job. After your car sits for 2-3 hrs pull the plugs and turn the engine over you should see water come out of a hole or two if you have water in the radiator.
have fun
later Bill

 

Thanks BCCHOPIT for working with me late on this. I'll pull the plugs first thing in the morning. Come to think of it the last couple of times on first start-up of the day water was coming from the header pipe/muffler joint for the first minute, and condensation smoke out the back exhaust pipe. Thanks again.

 

made a great score today, supposed to be a 31 AA motor and trans, was running good two years ago and is now stuck but has been stored inside in a working shop, so it cant be stuck very bad, it has a mallory dist in it and looks to be complete at least from a distance of about 20ft, all for free, just wanted rid of it, I'll get it home in the next week or so and post some pics, maybe youall can help me figure out exactly what I have.

 

just as a matter of interest what is the average age of a banger owner now days i am 59 and have owned my tee rp for 40 years its still a developing project and i have never tired of it also got a 27 roadster

 

Learned something new the other day- if the babbitt on a Chevy block is original, it CAN be popped out! The bearings have a nice little bung on the back to keep them from sliding and even have a bowtie cast into the bung. Will take pics tomorrow.

Looks like I'm a step closer to having a nice running engine- thanks again Herb (ebtm3)!

 

I'm averaging about 44 at the moment...

 

Still in my '30s here....just.

 

Hey fellas, what would cause some oil seepage between the block and bellhousing/flywheel cover? I got a new rope seal in place, am I missing something? Im guessing did I not install it right? The engines has been sitting idle between being out doors in the chassis and garage, maybe the weather messed it up?

 

52 yrs. Young and counting!

 

48yrs !!

Can someone confirm is the offset timing pin on the model B cover set at 19deg before TDC as I want to make myself a timing pointer off the front cover and mark my pulley with a degree scale
I was told this the other day
"When you use the timing pin to locate TDC with the B cover it is actually showing 8 degrees BTDC. This was done because the B distributor only has 16 degrees advance built into it giving it a total of 24 degrees advance. "
So now I am confused as I will use the timing pin to locate and then make my marks back to TDC from there.

 

Did you install the gasket between the 2?

 

Just legal... for SS that is haha. Just bought my first serious banger ( not in a doodlebug ) Getting shipped this next week, hope to have it around the 1st of March I'll post pics. when she's here safe and sound although most have seen it before.

 

I bought a Super Winfield head at a swap meet yesterday....I tried doing a search....is this a good head? I'm currently running a Thomas....just could not pass this up and bought it....thanks

 

No it is no good , please send it to me for disposal. We need to see pictures top and bottom!! Well I do anyway.

 

I'll take pictures and post.....It will be Monday though...

 

33 here