Love is.......The Feburary Banger Meet

Thanks for the info DaddyO! What would your recommend as a hole size to start with if I choose to make some for my engine?

BTW: Would anyone happen to have a single downdraft manifold for sale?

 

found a good trans adapter

https://www.clingsaftermarket.com/addtocart.asp?prod=43

anybody have any trouble with Cling's adapter?

 

who can tell me how many origional Riley heads were made
my buddy got one in a deal a few weeks back and i told him something like 200 were made. i could be way off i guess. its the second version where the plugs were on the pass side, not like charlies copy where the plugs were on the drivers side
thanks
tk

 

I have used it, works great. A very solid kit.

 

how have i never heard of clings before
are they new to the bizzz
tk

 

Hi
I have just install Clings, 39 trans to model A engine adapter in my pickup
and thing are lining up just fine. I'm very happy so far
Mike

 

I bought this Super Winfield head at a swap meet this past weekend...I have searched and not found out much about it....I'm interested in how old it is and compression ratio...I currently have a Thomas head and wondering if this may be better.....any imput? Thanks

 

We probably looked at one in September. Maybe you should contact Jess

http://www.museumofamericanspeed.com/Collections/Engines/ModelABE060.shtml

 

the raised piece below the PAT PEND should have some numbers on it... the first three are the compression ratio (700 = 7:1 and 800 = 8:1) and the next numbers are the casting number, if you dont mind, post what you find out!

 

thanks guys, cling's it is! it looks like a quality job

 

No numbers on raised area

 

well, not sure what to tell ya man, you could cc it to find out, the combustion chamber on mine looks the same as yours and mines a 8:1 but i dont know if 7:1 looks any different

 

Don't mean to interupt the compression ratio discussion. But I have a quick question for you guys if you have a minute.

One of the projects at home is a 31 model a pickup, its pretty much all stock except 46-48 brakes, mitchell overdrive and unknown front spindles.

I would like to put a good dual bowl drum/drum master cylinder beneath the floor boards on the drivers side of the model a frame

either directly bolted to the center cross member or spaced back if i have to. And would like to use the stock pedals.

What donor master cylinder would you guys recommend using? Would a 68/69 corvette, 67/68 mustang or any others that you have had good luck with using?

Also would you add 2 residual valves and a porportioning valve? and on the porportioning valve would you use the brass one out of speedway or go so wilwood?

thank you for your time and help in pointing me in the right direction


lastly gonna give a couple more brake questions a shot

any problem using 39-42 drums with 46-48 backing plates or visa versa?

anyone running disc brakes with wide five ford 36-39 wheels?

anyone using f1 brakes with early ford wires?

and i know the 40-42 and 46-48 ford drums have a different face but with the 46-48 drums would u use wheel supports with them to run model a wires or run them without supports?

thank u for again =)

 

I thought the same thing. I know of a guy in the Pasadena area who makes these bell housings, in fact I have talked with him on the phone a few times before the purchase. It looks very simialr to what he makes, it would not suprise me if its the same setup and Clings is a distributor. Either way, my setup is identical and has worked and fit well.

 

I found a diagram on this board awhile back.....It showed a bracket mounting a mustang MC....I had it made and I only had to drill one extra hole in the crossmember.....used stock pedal....I wish I could remember what it was under.....the best I have seen...

 

Lookin' through an old Rod Action magazine from Jan. '73 (what a great mag. that was) and in this one issue I found a few banger related things from the era I like the most, the early '30s.

The first is from a little special they did on Phil Weiand who let them use 6 of his pictures for the article.



Next is this shot from an article celebrating the 50th anniversary of Bell auto parts. Note that the driver of the T at Muroc in '32 was still an employee at Bell in '73!



A ad from a program for a race at the Culver City Speedway, Aug. 21, 1932. "George" is George Richter owner of Bell at that time.

 

Try this link I think it is what you are looking for. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=215063&highlight=hydraulic+brakes+model

I have done something simular, it works great. Used a 69 Chev dual MC only because I had a new one on the shelf. Also uses 2 Wildwood 2lb porportioning valves they work fine.

39 - 48 Drums are all interchangeable, only difference is hub mounts inside or outside. Adaptor is not required on 47 - 48 drums if there is 1 3/8 inchspace between the bolt face and the resessed portion of the drum the rim of the wheel needs to set solidly on the drum.

Wire wheels will not fit F1 or F100 drums.



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</TD><TD style="BORDER-RIGHT: #e5e5e5 1px solid" id=td_post_2295923 class=alt1><!-- icon and title --> Re: Model A hydraulic brakes

<HR style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #e5e5e5; COLOR: #e5e5e5" SIZE=1><!-- / icon and title --><!-- message -->I have heard that some guys used to mount the master cylinder outside the frame rails and use the mechanical brake cross shaft to actuate it- don't do it, scarey setup with little mechanical advantage.

Courtesy of Bob Carabbio and Dick Sparks, here are a couple pix of a neat bellcrank linkage that mounts inside the cross member to tie the stock pedal to a rearward facing master cylinder. Easy to make and only one hole to drill in the crossmember
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thank you all very much =) i appreciate the info and the more the merrier

 

Gas Hog, I made that and it works good.

 

I have a setup on my 28 that uses the stock brake setup with the M/C mounted on the pass side. Uses a 49 -53 truck M/C and a clevis welded to the bottom of the brake cross shaft actuating the rod to M/C M/C is mounted to the front of the crossmember under floor boards cant take pics until next week, getting ready for big 3 here in Dago

 

Look up "Chris", he just did a tech article on how he did his. Im actually in the process of doing the exact thing on mine right now.

 

This is the one I had made....it works super..Cost me under $200.00 to have made

 

I fabbed up a similar set up with the pivot in front of the center crossmember of my A and a 40 Ford master cyl behind the crossmember. I had to weld some gussets inside the crossmember to stiffen it up though. Works great. Done properly you can leave the battery in its stock location. Make sure your lengths on the pivot are right (typically equal) or you may have too much or too little throw on your linkage. Luke

 

yes! thank u im going to print out the bracket diagram and thank u as well i looked up chris's setup n i contacted him.. thank u all for your help!! =) and for telling me your setup n on these brackets too

 

I just thought everyone would like to know that the Weiand roadster is alive and well. It is still on the road, but it does have a flathead v-8 in it now. I saw the car a couple of times at the L.A. Roadster clubs fathers-day meet. It was one of my favorites. Tex Smith was the 3rd owner and he told me this story. Weiand's daughter had some plumbing work done, and gave the roadster to the plumber as payment. He installed the v-8 and drove it around the L.A. area for a number of years. Tex Smith saw the car, fell in love with it, and bought it. He had it a few years then sold it to a mutual friend in the Ft. Worth area. He really enjoys the car and is gathering parts to put a banger back in it. It still has the Buffalo wire wheels, T rearend. Very little has been changed on the car. I got an email from him today, asking about a good place to get the wheels trued. If anyone knows of a good place, would you please post it and I will pass it on to him.

 

anyone have the actual numbers for how many heads that george riley made
gen 1 plugs on the drivers side
gen 2 plugs on the pass side
and 4 ports
thanks
tk

 

Wow, amazing... Thanks for that update. I know there is a guy in Hershey, but the name escapes me. I too am looking for a set of nice wires...

 

Great story. It's amazing that the car still survives. I've read almost everything by Tex and I've never seen him mention that car.

I believe that this is the correct number for Tom (this is a total guess on the spelling of his last name) Manuchie or Manochie. He still makes Buffalo wheels here in socal and maybe he can true the old ones too. I'd think any good motorcycle shop could do the same.
626-444-5612

 

Finally got my engine to run and idle tonight. Still a bit rough; cant tell if its the cam or maybe jetting issues. I really suck at engines sometimes. Still very exciting, more fine tuning needed and clarification/adjustment of how to get my 1932 Mech Distributor timing on this 'A' motor spot on.

Got my Top material today (some old top fabric that a friend has had rolled up in his storage shed for the past 20 years, its going to make a nice touch. Black with a small grainy look to it, perfect Pre-war looking stuff) which im going to start next week and im finishing the upholstery on the seat. Lastly curtains for the doors for cold weather runs in the future (ha ha, that's an oxymoron here in California) My door panels and kick panels are finished in and installed.

I think I might be able to make the PRC Reliability Run this year....Fingers crossed! I have to set aside my "Anal" mindset and just get this darn thing on the road for the first time!

BTW: Anyone got an extra set of 2" rear shackles laying around, I need to replace the stock 1 3/4" units. I have NO spring suspension, its crazy stiff.