Register now to get rid of these ads!

Projects "Losthopes Ol' Lady's 1949 ply Build"

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by LostHope, Dec 27, 2013.

  1. n847
    Joined: Apr 22, 2010
    Posts: 2,706

    n847
    Member

    Wow...killing it! Love your build threads! I nabbed my aerostar coils came from rockauto.com for under 50 $. I know your all about finding them used, but if you need em quick I'd try rockauto. Keep it up. SUBSCRIBED!

    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
  2. Bugsy
    Joined: Dec 27, 2008
    Posts: 1,285

    Bugsy
    Member
    from Kansas

    Looking good, Bro....One step at a time!!! Also, I know what you mean about mounting your own tires...it sure does add up after a while. The shaved whites look good and like you said, will work perfect for as long as they need to. Do what you have to to get it on the road and dick with the details later! Classic Losthope build!! I LOVE IT!!!!!
     
  3. Cool build on a car that would get no love by most people. Subscribed.
     
  4. LostHope
    Joined: Jul 9, 2008
    Posts: 687

    LostHope
    Member

    I think I will buy new springs when the time comes, I got mine from ebay or autozone for my 54 cant really remember , but I will defiantly check out rock auto

    Thanks Jason ! Ive been looking on craigslist for a tire machine last couple days but none in the right price range for my cheap ass! HAHA

    Thanks!

    so I decided to go along with my plan and get a wheel spacer I ended up using a 1/4" wheel spacer and gave me pleanty of clearance since it pulled the rubbing area away from the caliper and I got the front stock steelies on the car now!

    [​IMG]

    Today was spent giving the motor a make over! armed with degreaser and a wire brush I went to work..every part I removed was soaked in the de rusting tank cleaned and then hi-temp painted , the hi-temp almond color is a little lighter then color I used on the firewall and the cell phone pictures make it look really white.Chrysler blue im not to fond of the factory sliver color so I went with early Chrysler blue to keep it mopar LOL ....everything is just mocked up still have to order a gasket set and have more parts to clean and paint:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG][/URL
     
  5. Bugsy
    Joined: Dec 27, 2008
    Posts: 1,285

    Bugsy
    Member
    from Kansas

    Man....I LOVE the blue and cream!! That old flattie cleaned up nice!! I really need to build a de-rusting tank like you have, everything I own is rusty!! You have a real knack for cleaning up old parts and making them look good.
     
  6. Bugsy
    Joined: Dec 27, 2008
    Posts: 1,285

    Bugsy
    Member
    from Kansas

    Just a thought.......You should put those chrome, acorn caps on the head bolts and run some colored, braided cloth pug wires when you get her going. That would look sweet on that blue engine.
     
  7. LostHope
    Joined: Jul 9, 2008
    Posts: 687

    LostHope
    Member

    My buddy had the chrome acron caps on his 50 ply flathead and they look pretty good, not good as a cool aftermarket head but better then stock, ill probably pick some up down the road!


    ya I think it looks pretty good I might repaint the cream color to try and get it to match closer to the firewall color its a little to light I think....I worked on the Plymouth today but nothing really to post pics of but I did take some pictures for you of the de-rusting tank in action:

    my other friend "Tony" also has his own area in the shop for his GMC project hes been working on. He took the rusty dash out and I put it in the de-rusting tank:

    [​IMG]

    left it in there for 3 hours and pulled it out this is a picture pulled straight out no wire brushing:

    [​IMG]

    quick couple mintues of hand wire brushing some water and BAM!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    works really good all the time ive spent over the years wire wheeling parts I wish I made one sooner, I just take some parts off and let them sit in the tank while I work on other stuff works out great....I like this setup because theres no acid like using a vinager or molasses bath setup where you have to take a extra step of neutralizing the acid. and if you don't really have a place for a sand blaster area like us it works perfect

    we picked up some more rebar and will have the BIG tank setup tomorrow to do bigger items !
     
    Last edited: Feb 27, 2014
  8. Bugsy
    Joined: Dec 27, 2008
    Posts: 1,285

    Bugsy
    Member
    from Kansas

    That is so cool....now I HAVE to make one!! What's next on the list for the Plymouth??
     
  9. LostHope
    Joined: Jul 9, 2008
    Posts: 687

    LostHope
    Member

    just going to try and work my way from the front to back of the car so more cleaning de-rusting and painting of front clip is next..I ended up repainting all the almond color parts on the engine a darker color to match the firewall

    these motors use a front engine motor mount and the bell housing as the rear motor mount/and trans mount. The beel housing ontop in this photo you can see the right rear mounting point was broken off so went to my dads house and went out to his mopar parts stash and and found another bell housing he also hooked me up with a oil filter canister that has a bolt on top that you can change the filters out the one that came with the Plymouth was a fixed 1 time use unit:

    [​IMG]

    Next issue was the clutch components, even though they were clearly rebuilt right before the car was parked they had been sitting pressed together so long that the surface rust they acquired actually started eating away at the ring gear and pressure plate and were really pitted I found this out when I went to clean them up :

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Being a cheap ass and being as its a low buck budget build I didn't really want to try and resurface them or purchase new ones, I Luckily have my cousin "Gleandale" who is always a phone call away and there to save me when I need advice or in this case more parts! I Took a drive across the city to his house in a hellacious rain storm and picked up a older rebuilt set he had that was in better shape:

    [​IMG]

    after degreasing ,cleaning and spray bombing the trans components I finally had the trans bolted back up:

    [​IMG]

    I bought and installed a new oil pan gasket and stuffed it all back in the car:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  10. LostHope
    Joined: Jul 9, 2008
    Posts: 687

    LostHope
    Member

    Then I had to temporarily throw the front clip on with a few bolts to see how low the car was sitting!

    BAM!


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  11. LostHope
    Joined: Jul 9, 2008
    Posts: 687

    LostHope
    Member

    Also got the big de-rusting tank going:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Joe figuring where hes going to graft two bodys together on this Studebaker project:

    [​IMG]

    the other half of the back half of joes project soaking will see how it turns out tomorrow:

    [​IMG]
     
  12. LostHope
    Joined: Jul 9, 2008
    Posts: 687

    LostHope
    Member

    Been busy working a lot so progress has slowed on the wifes car , ive just been cleaning and painting parts that I took off mostly that I still need to put back on, but today I decided to make the dual exhaust , I need to round the corners still on the bottom pipe flange I added and need to make a thicker plate for the top I just have a thin metal pattern for mock up heres the pictures:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    wife showed up at lunch time with pizza and this is what happened for about a hour....really doesn't help with progress:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    that's it for today
     
  13. Bugsy
    Joined: Dec 27, 2008
    Posts: 1,285

    Bugsy
    Member
    from Kansas

    EXCELLENT PROGRESS!!!!!!! The engine and tranny look great back in there and I'm digging the stance on the front...perfect!! The dual exhaust is really creative and looks sweet!!
     
  14. LostHope
    Joined: Jul 9, 2008
    Posts: 687

    LostHope
    Member

    Thanks Jason! But I cant take credit for the split exhaust I saw someone do it on another forum board..

    But I did come up with this on my own and have under $40 into it so far, Ive been working on it for the past couple days cut everything out by hand with cut off wheels and used a little homeowner drill press and a hole saw, I can tell you that I need to invest in some better equipment HAHAHA it took about a hour to a hour and a half to drill each hole in the the 1/2" plate..I still have some more work to do to it. have to drill and tap the two vacuum line ports in the bungs I just welded on and do some metal finishing, waiting for some gaskets to show up in the mail so I can bolt the top plate onto the top of the the exhaust manifold and get everything lined up and then cut a hole in it and weld a heat channel up to the bottom of the intake to keep it heated like the stock design ,since ive heard that if not heated by either exhaust heat or water heat you can have acceleration issues.....

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  15. 1959Nomad
    Joined: Jun 21, 2009
    Posts: 2,158

    1959Nomad
    Member

    nice work on the manifold, very resourceful.
    look forward the the rest of the "low buck" build, suscribed
     
  16. Bugsy
    Joined: Dec 27, 2008
    Posts: 1,285

    Bugsy
    Member
    from Kansas

    HOLY SHIT!!!!!! That looks great!!!!!!!!!!!
     
  17. navyboy
    Joined: Mar 11, 2013
    Posts: 278

    navyboy
    Member

    this was a great read and now subscribed! I have a 52 Plymouth seen in avatar. Im interested the rearend you put in did it require any modification to the drive axle or bolt right up without problems, I have heard of people doing this with a 52 as well and thinking of this swap as well. thanks.
     
  18. brokenspoke
    Joined: Jul 26, 2005
    Posts: 2,914

    brokenspoke
    Member

    That intake is impressive....
     
  19. Everything looks great,,I'm starting to really like these old Plymouth's. HRP
     
  20. tragic59
    Joined: Sep 16, 2002
    Posts: 766

    tragic59
    Member

    Fantastic work, Timmy. Been a while since I checked in on this thread... Amazing progress.

    I wish I had your energy and motivation.
     
  21. blue50coronet
    Joined: Mar 27, 2014
    Posts: 60

    blue50coronet
    Member
    from Auburn, CA

    Looks like its going to be a beautiful cruiser! I am very interested in your progress, especially where the transmission and rear end are concerned. I have a 1950 Dodge that I inherited from my dad, and wanted to "upgrade" it a bit.

    I was looking in to the T5 transmission option from an S-10 and a rear end possibly from a Cherokee or later mopar(still researching)
    Fortunately for me, the body is very nice and the engine has just been rebuilt. I was thinking about the dual carb and split exhaust set up as well as disc brakes in the front.

    I am looking forward to seeing your progress!
     
  22. Ulu
    Joined: Feb 26, 2014
    Posts: 1,767

    Ulu
    Member
    from CenCal

    The engine looks quite attractive, but it will last longer if you dump that road draft tube and adapt a PCV valve from there to the air cleaner. It will keep dirt out of the crankcase, and provide extra ventilation of the blowby gasses, reducing crankcase sludge, and preventing blown seals from a clogged draft "filter".
     
  23. navyboy
    Joined: Mar 11, 2013
    Posts: 278

    navyboy
    Member

    ^^^sounds like something that can be prevented however by those who get off them asses and check the road draft tube when its suppose to be done.
     
  24. Ulu
    Joined: Feb 26, 2014
    Posts: 1,767

    Ulu
    Member
    from CenCal

    It's just not a very good filter even when new, and the engine is trying to suck dirt through it constantly when running. When the engine's not running it allows moist air to enter the crankcase at night and condense, then drop into the oil. Also, the draft ,which evacuates nasty combustion byproducts, isn't available unless the car is moving fast.

    Positive crankcase ventilation works and has a real purpose in keeping an engine alive longer.
     
  25. 1959apache
    Joined: Nov 22, 2009
    Posts: 2,627

    1959apache
    Member

    he is just trolling for a response... there is a reason why they don't use the same design through the 60's because of what you already stated.
     
  26. Ulu
    Joined: Feb 26, 2014
    Posts: 1,767

    Ulu
    Member
    from CenCal

    I'm pretending I didn't notice...:rolleyes:
     
  27. tragic59
    Joined: Sep 16, 2002
    Posts: 766

    tragic59
    Member

    Not to hijack my buddy's thread with a PCV discussion...

    But, they did make the flatheads into the early 70's for industrial and forklift engines. Does anyone know if they ever updated the design from the road draft tube to a PCV?
     
  28. porky55
    Joined: Aug 23, 2013
    Posts: 269

    porky55
    Member

    I don't know if they ever did but with the right grommet and a PCV valve that fits, you could change it over.
    By the way, the Plymouth is looking good!

    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
  29. boneshaker
    Joined: Oct 15, 2008
    Posts: 12

    boneshaker
    Member
    from wpg.mb.

    Re Lost hope build : Nice work , great info , great build ! keep up the good work . I just thought id share a pic of my 1949 Plymouth with a chopped roof with you .

    f7wloobgxud9nzaqufk7-4426629.jpg
     
  30. LostHope
    Joined: Jul 9, 2008
    Posts: 687

    LostHope
    Member

    Thanks everyone I appreciate the feedback!

    Ya I know all about the pcv upgrade im plan on doing it to my dads 51 coronet and see how it goes ill probably end up doing it to the 49 eventually but I have a lot of other issues to address at the moment and that will be something addressed after it on the road

    right on!

    Hey navyboy I haven't installed the driveline yet but ill be ditching the original setup except the mounting flange for trans im going to have a whole new driveline made up with a slip yoke and newer style u-joint instead of the o.g. mopar style joints. and im pretty sure its not a bolt in or correct length..also the explorer rear end differential is not centered it is more to the pass. side so im redoing the floors inside of the car due to rust so ill will be building a new driveline tunnel to address this change and also from lowering the rear ill be raising the tunnel some ,I suspect that ill have to clearance the rear disc brake calipers also like I did the front to get stock wheels to work, something else youll have to think about if you plan on using the explorer disc rear and going this stock wheels...I did this swap to get rear disc brakes , if you don't really care about rear disc's id go with a jeep Cherokee rearend ,we did that on "Glendales" 51 Plymouth and it was the better swap of the two so far..
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.