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Customs Losthope's 1966 c10 low buck build!

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by LostHope, Sep 24, 2011.

  1. LostHope
    Joined: Jul 9, 2008
    Posts: 687

    LostHope
    Member

    Well the latest update is that i bought a Rebuilt th350 and today i got the old one out and the rebuilt one in....Every car battery i own seems to be dead so i didnt fire the truck up yet and take it for a spin < I put a battery on the charger and will see how everything goes tomorrow heres some pic's:

    Getting the old one out:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    swapping shifting lever over and comparing tran's:

    [​IMG]

    new one in:
    [​IMG][/QUOTE]
     
  2. LostHope
    Joined: Jul 9, 2008
    Posts: 687

    LostHope
    Member

    So while I had the truck in the air after the trans swap I decided to pull out the box of ball joints and a-arm bushings the previous owner gave me with the truck he had started the power steering conversion and and replaced the joints on the tie-rod ends but didnt finish and never got to the rest....

    taking it apart:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    got the ball joints out and cut off the bumpstop stands:
    [​IMG]
    rented a ball joint press from autozone so i pressed new joints in real quick and returned the press:
    [​IMG]
    Scrapped off the crud and grease the best i could and started puting everything back together,Im a renter so i just try do do what i have to and get my cars put back together so the landlord doesnt give me grief if your wondering why i dont sand and paint everything..id love to but dont got a garage or time:
    [​IMG]
    one side down:
    [​IMG]
    Then the wife grabbed the camera and took some pictures of me working:
    [​IMG]
    this on you can see my ugly mug
    [​IMG]
    And if you have read my thread all the way through you'll know that my grandma passed away,so Hamber "tragic59" did a memorial tattoo for me:
    [​IMG]
    then I put it back together with the new trans and as you can see i got crazy when i had it apart and cut the front springs some more:metal:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    and received these short energy suspension bump stops today that i got to still install:
    [​IMG]

    Until next time gang!
     
  3. HotRodKristina
    Joined: Sep 16, 2011
    Posts: 18

    HotRodKristina
    Member

    Love your budget build thread and what you've done so far. Saw one of these today on the way home from the store and made me realize how much I miss having a truck. Keep up the great work :)
     
  4. hey man somebody left a greasy fingerprint on your whitewall.

    It's nice to get some of the hard work done so you can enjoy driving rather than thinking about everything that needs done while you're driving.

    lookin' good
     
  5. Good work man. Keep it going. You have me inspired, and missing my 64 C10. Don't feel bad about not being able to strip everything and paint it. You're still miles ahead of 99.99999% of the world!
     
  6. SICBOY
    Joined: Jul 9, 2006
    Posts: 389

    SICBOY
    Member

    nice build love those truck's Anymore picture's of the customline?
     
  7. LostHope
    Joined: Jul 9, 2008
    Posts: 687

    LostHope
    Member

    thank you always have owned a truck except for a 2 year period and I found out how much i took having trucks granted when i couldnt do the same stuff with just a car...

    Ya still need to clean them....should have seen the ol' ladys greasy camera she was pissed! Trying to focus on replacing the wore out parts so i can roll the wheels off it...

    Thanks for the props wish i had the tools,space,and funds to do a really nice build but i get by and find it easier to stay motivated in a project if i keep it running and driving also!

    ya theres a build thread im doing also on the 54 ford customline look at the bottom of my post....
    Im pretty dedicated to these trucks also Im on my third one.....also have owned three 54 fords... did get a 63 c10 tat on the left hand...still need to get the 54 ford emblem tat on the right hand
    [​IMG]
     
  8. Woogeroo
    Joined: Dec 29, 2005
    Posts: 1,106

    Woogeroo
    Member
    from USA

    sweet build, not sure how I missed this one on the chebby truck forum... keep at it.

    -W
     
  9. Hot Rod Chris
    Joined: Mar 31, 2011
    Posts: 464

    Hot Rod Chris
    Member

    Love the build! Plan to use the same concept on my 52 pickup! keep it simple and run what ya brung and enjoy it!!! Keep it up!!!
     
  10. mcnally351
    Joined: Apr 12, 2011
    Posts: 437

    mcnally351
    Member
    from boston

    cool build looks good for not a lot of doe
     
  11. Thanks for that info. I had the same problem on my car, the slightest pressure would lock up the right rear. Swaped drums, its still not perfect yet but 90 % better.
     
  12. LostHope
    Joined: Jul 9, 2008
    Posts: 687

    LostHope
    Member

    Also another thing is to check the lining of the shoes,sometimes theres a front and rear shoe one has more lining then the other ,and people get it backwards or dont notice and this will also give you brake problems like locking up.....in this picture you can see the front shoe lining doesnt go up as high as the rear:
    [​IMG]
     
  13. LostHope
    Joined: Jul 9, 2008
    Posts: 687

    LostHope
    Member

    Well my notch and trac bar showed up from CPP, And i got started on working on the rear of the truck:
    [​IMG]
    After quite awhile of cutting,drilling,and pounding rivets out i got the c-notch bolted in:
    [​IMG]
    Then painted them with some black paint just to keep them from surface rusting:
    [​IMG]
    Got dark out side before i could get the trac bar on and still need to relocate the shocks when they show up in the mail, This was done to give me more travel with the truck lowered with the rear camero sway bar bolted to top of the rearend so the stance isnt going to change....until i purchase the basic bags setup for the front and rear! Will post pics when its back together with the relocated shocks and trac bar....
     
  14. LostHope
    Joined: Jul 9, 2008
    Posts: 687

    LostHope
    Member

    Updates:
    A couple weeks ago i mocked up the rear grill im making but put that on hold for a bit heres a picture tho:
    [​IMG]

    yesterday i started putting together my air tank i had!!! im planning on manual paddle switch valves and bagging the truck soon:
    [​IMG]

    Well today i mounted my air tank , i was going to just run it in the bed but changed my mind so i tore the tank apart again and mounted it under the bed in the forward fender on the drivers side:
    [​IMG]

    I read a post on manual paddle switch valves on another car forum and most paddle switch valves are made for 1/4" tubing and a guy installed 1/2" supply lines and stepped it down right at the switchs and said that it makes a difference in the speed of you bags compared to running all 1/4" tubing...I was in luck i had traded a 700r4 that needed a rebuild for some 1/2 tubing and check valves and fittings a couple years ago ....

    so i ran two 1/2" lines to the cab 1 line for front switchs and 1 line for rear switchs, I had some big rubber fuel line I picked up some time ago for something i cant remember for what now...slide it over the tubing where ever i secured it to the truck or where ever i thought it might rub on metal:
    [​IMG]

    I needed to mount the pump somewhere so i had some metal angle brackets for a old shelving unit and a aluminum sign i found when tearing down a building(I work for a Demolition company) ...
    [​IMG]

    the angles fit perfect on the frame so i cut a section of sign and bolted it together to make a pump stand :
    [​IMG]

    sprayed it with some black paint and mounted the pump used a old rubber type mouse pad and cut it to make rubber pads for where the tank mounts to bed sills and where pump mounts to the stand to cut down on vibration and noise :
    [​IMG]
    wired it up and tested the pump it still works after sitting in storage for a year!! So used stuff i already had and todays project didnt cost me anything!!
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Right now i just got everything zip tied up need to buy some plastic strapping ,and need to get everything else but one step closer to being bagged......
     
  15. looks sweet man, im doing along the same lines with an F100 minus bags. Budget building and driving the dog piss out of it. Nice job.
     
  16. derbydad276
    Joined: May 29, 2011
    Posts: 1,322

    derbydad276
    Member


    same here
    my lowering job was done by flipping the spring hangers in the rear and cutting coils in the front
     
  17. Chevy54
    Joined: Sep 27, 2009
    Posts: 1,413

    Chevy54
    Member
    from Orange, CA

    Long bed lowered C10s are bitchin man..... lo-dollar builds are always cool to watch!
     
  18. LostHope
    Joined: Jul 9, 2008
    Posts: 687

    LostHope
    Member

    I personally like the longbeds better!


    well im waiting on a set of bags,fittings,and manual paddle switch valves to come in the mail, but i did pick up a brand new set of bags for $50 from a friend and I also picked up a set of front and rear bag brackets (rear brackets are just plates not pictured)for $120 locally.
    so i went to the NAPA warehouse were they have big truck brake parts,and picked up 50 feet of 1/4 air line, and most of my fittings and got the rear bags started:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    im relocating the rear camero sway bar and also the rear shocks......I choose to do what "frizzle fry" did with his rear shocks swapping and drilling holes so they mount behind the rear axle now:
    [​IMG]

    Bags= $150
    switch/valves=$80
    air line and fittings=$100
    front and rear bag brackets=$120
    random fittings of ebay=$20
    grade #8 bolts= $20
    tank and compresser= already had!

    works out to be around $500 bag setup!!
     
  19. specialk
    Joined: Sep 28, 2005
    Posts: 598

    specialk
    Member

    Sold my '62 3 years ago - moving from a house to an apartment because of a job transfer, Now that I'm back in a house I think I need to buy another one (newer than '62 though, the torsion bars are just too limiting).

    Nice truck, you made my day!
     
  20. 64sled
    Joined: Jul 18, 2007
    Posts: 292

    64sled
    Member

    Just read this build thread and now i'm hooked :)

    Great job.
     
  21. LostHope
    Joined: Jul 9, 2008
    Posts: 687

    LostHope
    Member

    Thanks man, i like all the 60-66 trucks but agree with you on the torsion bars im more partial the 64-66 years myself!

    Thank you very much! Glad your digging the build...


    Well im still waiting on the paddle switch valves and the front air bags to show up via UPS, so i decided to try and get the rear end buttoned up....

    I still have a 1 1/2" more before the rear end bottoms out in the frame c-notch but the pumpkin is hitting the bed floor, and i dont want to cut a hole in the bed because i still want to use it as a working truck to haul stuff, so when i redo the bed wood im going to raise the bed floor up a 1 1/2" so the pumpkin and the axle tube bottoms out all at the same time....I planned ahead that i will add 1 1/2" lowering blocks later on down the road and planned that into the shock relocation......

    First i made some brackets to relocate the rear shocks higher then the frame and the future blocks so when aired out the shocks dont bottom out,i used the front shocks on the back since they are short shocks.....
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    heres the shocks with the new higher mounts and the stock lower mounts drilled and swapped backwards with it aired out with travel left in the shock before they bottom out....
    [​IMG]

    bought this adjustable trac bar before i planned on bagging the truck and this doesnt quite do the job, so i plan on making this into a longer bar that mounts to the trailing arm giving less movement of the rear end when going from aired out to full air...
    [​IMG]

    Then i relocated the carrier bearing, here you can see when aired out the drivline is at a extreme angle:
    [​IMG]

    being cheap and not wanting to buy a new aftermarket drop cross member,i drilled out the riviets that hold the carrier bearing mount and flipped it over....

    i took the difference from when the rearend is aired out and and when it is at full air and put the rear end at the middle of those two and drilled and mounted the mount for the carrier bearing with the drivline straight.....

    here it is aired out with the drivline angled up slightly:
    [​IMG]
    And dont worry about those air lines that is 1/4 line inside of 1/2 line and im going to put that inside rubber hose...just waiting on it to show up, it wont be rubbing on anything...and thats why the plastic clamps are loose in this picture...

    when full air it is angled down slightly..Ive had three of these pinch welded carrier bearings come apart on my old 65, and finally had my buddy weld them together better and never had a problem again so ill have him do that to these one ,instead of buying one of those billet aluminum $100 replacements..

    still have to relocate the rear camero swaybar still.......

    untill next time!!
     
  22. LostHope
    Joined: Jul 9, 2008
    Posts: 687

    LostHope
    Member

    while still waiting on air ride parts to show up i decided to do something that didnt require crawling around under the truck on the concrete.....I had bought a truck radio for $20 and decided to put it in....i had a butt ugly black plastic cd player holder mounted to the bottom of the dash and didnt want to have a radio in the dash and a cd player under.....

    So the card board glove box insert was long gone....... i found a couple scrap pieces of sheet metal out back and i took some measurements and bent and riveted a panel to fit in the glove box opening to hold the cd player:
    [​IMG]

    threw some paint on it and installed it....cd player fits nice nd the door closes,hot glued a magnet to the back of the cd player remote and stuck it to the panel and still have room for my reg. and insurance paper work, and some fuses:
    [​IMG]

    found the chrome chevy glove box emblem in a box of stuff i pulled off the 65 after the wreck and put that on. Its a little scratched up from the wreck but will match the rest of the truck..:lol:...need to get a new latch for the door:
    [​IMG]

    put the radio in the dash it is a little smaller then the opening but think thats because its not a 66 push button radio, Its amazing how mush better it looks with a radio then a square hole in the dash:
    [​IMG]

    Still need to rewire the cd player and the radio(see if it even works at all) need to sand down the dash and the glove box panel i just made and repaint everything but for now it is what it is, hopefully later in life ill have a garage that i can tear the whole truck down and redo everything......but for now its a low buck build!
     
  23. LostHope
    Joined: Jul 9, 2008
    Posts: 687

    LostHope
    Member

    OK guys got my truck bagged! it is very very slow but does the job, theres no bed wood at the moment so the extra weight might help when i get the new wood in.....the back can down another 1" or 1 1/2" or so,Im waiting on my lowering blocks to arrive....the front bags raised the front end up compared to the cut coils i had, so cupping the front a-arms are in the future plans and also some better compressors.......enjoy!

    CLICK THE PICTURE TO VIEW VIDEO:
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2012
  24. fleetside66
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 2,644

    fleetside66
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I gotta say that I'm enjoying the hell out this. Frankly, you're a little nuts & you definitely suffer from doo-dad fever. Keep up the good work & attitude.
     
  25. cool idea on the CD hiding hole
     
  26. T.L.
    Joined: May 24, 2011
    Posts: 206

    T.L.
    Member
    from Colorado

    Cool. I like the way you did the wheels & tires...
     
  27. LostHope
    Joined: Jul 9, 2008
    Posts: 687

    LostHope
    Member

    Guess ill take that as a compliment :D

    cant take all the credit i seen it done before i just made mine a little diffrent.

    Thanks!


    UPDATE:
    I took the bed wood out since it was old rotten and boards were cupping, and i needed to raise the bed floor up a 1 1/2" so the pupkin on the rear end wasnt hitting the wood and could go all the way up in the c-notch..... I bolted some new 3/4" boards around the outside so the bed would stay at the same height:
    [​IMG]

    Then i took some 2x4 pressure treated boards and notched and drilled all the holes for the bolts that the metal strips use, I also bolted the big carriage bolts to the bed braces and recessed the bolt heads under the pressure trreated 2x4's so you wont see them in the new bed wood but still hold the bed down....the 2x4 space the wood planks up 1 1/2" that i needed for the rearend to raise up:
    [​IMG]

    Well i received the lowering blocks and the worked perfect! My bags were bottomed out on the trailing arms and the rearend still had a 1 1/2" before it was all the way in the c-notch and the lowering blocks were used to raise the rearend up the 1 1/2" :
    [​IMG]

    Also the old stock "monroe monro-matic #32207" that i bought on ebay for cheap showed up and with the higher shock relocate brackets i made they worked perfect and the shocks bottom out at the same time the rearend bottoms out in the c-notch:
    [​IMG]

    I also got the camero rear sway bar mounted to the trailing arms instead of on top of the rearend it worked out great with the bag setup this way it doesnt limit the bags at all in the full range of the bag travel:
    [​IMG]

    Then my buddy gave me a under dash a/c unit out of one of his mopar trucks, he said that "it will be the best upgrade on the truck because its a Chrysler unit" HaHaHa :D:eek::D hes a die hard mopar guy so he was quick to take a stab at my chevy......took it apart and cleaned it up a little think it might be to big to fit but will give it a shot at installing it with all my accessories i got going on:
    [​IMG]

    thats it for now i forgot to take a picture of how low the rear is now with the lowering blocks but will get one for the next update..
     
  28. Bugsy
    Joined: Dec 27, 2008
    Posts: 1,282

    Bugsy
    Member
    from Kansas

    I just stumbled across this thread. I'm very impressed with all that you've done. You do good work and I always like to see those who just get after shit and get it done (I'm a giant procrastinator). Also admire someone that wrenches outside with no fancy shop and tools.

    Really respect your work and ability. Love the truck, man. Keep it up!!
     
  29. LostHope
    Joined: Jul 9, 2008
    Posts: 687

    LostHope
    Member

    Thank you That means alot! I wasted alot of my time/life partying all the time and putting shit off and spending money on useless crap, i just recently got into the mood of get shit done after my wreck and the new outlook on life since im still alive....As far as a shop and tools,I'd just be happy with a nice metal carport and a roll around tool chest!!:D

    Well heres the picture of how low you can go with the basic bolt in c-notch this is with the bed wood raised 1 1/2" with the rearend bottomed out in the c-notch(you could go 1/2" more with the bump stops out but i didnt do that)....
    This is also how low you can go in the front with d2600 bags and the basic bolt in bag brackets(Not very low).....Im going to modify the front lower control arms with bag cups and should be able to get alot lower in the front:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Next i got the wood planks for the bed, earlier in my thread you can see i spaced the wood up 1 1/2" with 2x4 runners because of the rearend hitting the wood....

    figuring out how to notch the planks:
    [​IMG]
    Cutting the notch's:
    [​IMG]
    Primed the wood:
    [​IMG]

    originally the bed wood would of been a black stain, and since im still going to use this truck as a working truck, i didnt want anything fancey so i just painted it a flat black so if it gets beat up i just pull the wheel wells and give it a new coat of paint(has 4 coats now).....I also painted the inside of the bed red:
    [​IMG]

    need to get some bolts for the wheel wells but besides that bed is finished, I think it turned out nice for a driver....also if you didnt notice but the big hold down carriage bolts dont show thur the bed i recessed them under the 2x4 runners......i got about $220 into the bed project..

    Hope you guys like it :lol:
     
  30. slammed
    Joined: Jun 10, 2004
    Posts: 8,151

    slammed
    Member

    Love your work ethic and results are looking great. Here is a sectioned front cross member for the 61-87 Chevy. I thought you might dig it.[​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 25, 2012

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